The car is in epoxy and off the rotisserie. I mocked up the front and rear suspension plus the engine and trans and I'm working through some fitment and clearance issues currently. I was very happy to see that the narrowed rear fit correctly. I dumped a bunch of oil on my garage floor on my 1st attempt at installing the drivetrain. Turns out the flywheel bolt holes on my aftermarket crank are not blind.
The CPP tubular arms are nice, they went in easy and fit nicely. I did have to open up the round hole in the subframe at the top of the shock on one side of the car. The top of the shock body was interfering with the subframe. The biggest issue I've had is getting the driveline angles correct. The Hooker stuff left my engine/trans at about 5 degrees slope which is not what they advertise. I've been in contact with Holley support and they are unable to explain it at this point. I've had to shim my T56 Mag and additional 1.5" on the crossmember to get it down to 3 degrees. This puts the transmission quite high in the car and will likely create a clearance issue with the driveshaft next. My shifter is looking a bit tall also. Thankfully, I was able to get a measurement to order my driveshaft from Denny's. It was a pleasure dealing with them.
Another issue I'm dealing with is my hand built 4-link crossmember. I'm in the process of cutting the center section down a bit to give the driveshaft clearance at full rear droop. While I have the rear out of the car, I'll button up the brakes, brake lines and install my Moser cover. When it goes back in, it will also get new 1.25" link bars with bigger FK rod ends.
I've got all of my fuel and brake lines to run front to back also. Planning to run full size (-8AN) supply and return fuel lines with a bypass regulator under the hood. I really wanted to run hard lines but ultimately decided to use Jegs Pro Flow Extreme braided. It's not PFTE lined but is supposed to perform like PFTE lined. We shall see. That's about it for now.
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Thank you. The stands are DIY brand. Way more work than I care to remember at this point. I have graduated to a small hyd. bottle jack to lift/lower them. They work great now. They came in really handy when I installed the motor/trans. I had the rear on the stands and the front on the ground. It made a huge difference in approach angle.
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I'm still alive and have been continuing to work on my Nova as time and money allows. Thought I would add a quick update post of things I've done since my last post so long ago.
1. Fender flares! This was a big job which took me about 6 months. Still not done, need to finish the inner fenders.
2. Wiper cowl cover louver delete.
3. Door skins. Rebuilding the doors, adding power windows, locks and mirrors. Still working on the mirrors.
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Retrofit power mirrors and doors back on the car The mirrors were a little custom side project. I think they fit the body quite well. I'm happy with the result... at least until I start body working them. Can't seem to post any pictures, sorry. I'll try again later.
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Retrofit power mirrors and doors back on the car The mirrors were a little custom side project. I think they fit the body quite well. I'm happy with the result... at least until I start body working them. Can't seem to post any pictures, sorry. I'll try again later.
Pictures.
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Inner (DSE) and outer wheel houses + trunk extensions so I could get the quarter skins mocked-up to figure out my axle/housing length. Then I bought 80' of 1.75" x 0.120" DOM tube, nice bender and cheap notcher. Started making bars.
what kind of tube bender is that i would love to invest in one for my own project
what kind of tube bender is that i would love to invest in one for my own project
I got the JD2 Model 32 I believe. It works great. Would be better with hydraulic power though. If/when I ever need to do it again, I'll add the hydraulic power to it.
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Brian Hobaugh SCCA National Tour June 2014
First Hemi 'Cuda Convertible Ever Built
Short clips: Goodguys Pleasanton autocross and pit videos
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