Norwood

[GregWeld]

I'd have lit up my oxy acetylene torch... Metal
Bends easy when it's glowing like a cherry!!!



Hahahaha



That sucks but is "hot rodding".

[Sieg]

Originally Posted by GregWeld

I'd have lit up my oxy acetylene torch... Metal
Bends easy when it's glowing like a cherry!!!

I know, you should see my tail pipes near the top of the rear wheels......pancakes.

I have a map gas torch but the angle wasn't the best, besides I don't like playing with fire that much any more........and Norwood was starting to piss me off so hammering on him a bit was good therapy.

That plug cap was arcing and causing a slight miss.

I went from 70 to 67 air bleeds. Idle now has a little meat to it.

Tighten the accel pump a little.

It's getting better.

Next will be going to 5.0 power valves from 5.5's.

I'll probably get some 65 air bleeds just to test as the idle by-pass valve is about a 1/2 turn from closed out of a 5 turn range.

[glassman]

Ya might of knocked some sense into the carb too, all that energy right into the combustion chamber, through the intake, and Bam. She'll run better.....

[Sieg]

Originally Posted by glassman

Ya might of knocked some sense into the carb too, all that energy right into the combustion chamber, through the intake, and Bam. She'll run better.....

[waynieZ]

It hurt but at least its good now.

[DaleTx]

Originally Posted by Sieg

I know, you should see my tail pipes near the top of the rear wheels......pancakes.

I have a map gas torch but the angle wasn't the best, besides I don't like playing with fire that much any more........and Norwood was starting to piss me off so hammering on him a bit was good therapy.

That plug cap was arcing and causing a slight miss.

I went from 70 to 67 air bleeds. Idle now has a little meat to it.

Tighten the accel pump a little.

It's getting better.

Next will be going to 5.0 power valves from 5.5's.

I'll probably get some 65 air bleeds just to test as the idle by-pass valve is about a 1/2 turn from closed out of a 5 turn range.

I don't know if this is helpful or not but my Holley 650 double pumper (4150 HP) that I had on my Gen 1 350 had a 65 power valve stock. I ended up running a 75 power valve which dumped some extra fuel in sooner... and that helped to get rid of the flat spot I had when accelerating coming off idle. Sometimes it's hard to tell if you lean or rich when it stumbles but on mine the larger power valve did the trick. Good luck with the tuning

[Sieg]

Originally Posted by DaleTx

I don't know if this is helpful or not but my Holley 650 double pumper (4150 HP) that I had on my Gen 1 350 had a 65 power valve stock. I ended up running a 75 power valve which dumped some extra fuel in sooner... and that helped to get rid of the flat spot I had when accelerating coming off idle. Sometimes it's hard to tell if you lean or rich when it stumbles but on mine the larger power valve did the trick. Good luck with the tuning

Thanks Dale - I'm going by the basic rule power valve = .5 or manifold vacuum which I'm only getting 10 inches, 11 if it's perfect. I have stock in 4.5, 5.0, 5.5, and 6.5. It has 5.5's in it now.

For the off-idle flat spot the pump linkage adjustment, squirter size, and pump cams are what I use fine tune. I'm hoping it's in the ballpark and I can start fine tuning when the weather improves.

[Sieg]

Originally Posted by waynieZ

It hurt but at least its good now.

Hopefully it's good, the boot still contacts the pipe but it's not compressed against it like the other was and I switched to MSD's "racing" boot which is labeled high-temp. We shall see.

[protour73]

Scott, you are going through exactly the same things that I'm going through on my car, so I love this thread!!

I'm not an experienced carb tuner guy and after purchasing a Holley 4150 DP from Patrick at Pro Systems I'm into all sorts of tuning territory I've never been to before.

I installed a wideband O2 sensor which really helped get a hand on some things like the power valve choice. When you are driving the car, you can actually see when the power valve opens by watching the gauge!! The carb shipped with a 5.5 PV incorrectly, which I've bumped up to a 7.5, and I changed out the idle air bleeds a couple times as well to get rid of a pig rich idle -- so I feel your pain

Keep on working at it!!

[Sieg]

Originally Posted by protour73

Scott, you are going through exactly the same things that I'm going through on my car, so I love this thread!!

I'm not an experienced carb tuner guy and after purchasing a Holley 4150 DP from Patrick at Pro Systems I'm into all sorts of tuning territory I've never been to before.

I installed a wideband O2 sensor which really helped get a hand on some things like the power valve choice. When you are driving the car, you can actually see when the power valve opens by watching the gauge!! The carb shipped with a 5.5 PV incorrectly, which I've bumped up to a 7.5, and I changed out the idle air bleeds a couple times as well to get rid of a pig rich idle -- so I feel your pain

Keep on working at it!!

Thank you.

Your car is awesome! Appears our builds have somewhat similar objectives and I'm a big fan of 2nd Gen's and Yellow.

My carb came with 6.5 power valves and 70 air bleeds.......seat of the pants tuning and experimenting along with baselines from the previous Demon carb have lead me to 5.0 power valve and richening the idle circuit. Somewhat opposite of your situation..........how many inches of vacuum does your motor have at idle? What A/F monitor are you running?

The carb circuit that I don't have a good feel for yet is the idle bypass valve........as is the idle circuit wants that valve completely shut (no additional air) which leads me to believe the idle air bleeds were too big. On the scale of available jets 70's are close to the largest. So I'm assuming smaller idle air bleeds will make the idle bypass valve functional. I don't like having any circuit set at the extreme range of adjustment high or low. If altitude, temp, and air desity change I want to insure there's room to adjust the circuit........balance is good.

Here's the tuning guide for the Ultra HP.
http://www.holley.com/data/Products/...R10565rev1.pdf

Getting a carb right in the garages is one thing, on the street is another, and under hard braking yet another.........there are times it could be considered a masochistic process.