1968 Camaro "Badmotorfinger" v2.2

[Flash68]

Originally Posted by FETorino

Yes. With the RS chassis the typical road race pan would have my motor up higher in the chassis. The dry sump allows me three things.

1 Better oiling
2 Motor lower and farther back since my pan will be 3.5" deep max
3 Vacuum in the crankcase for more hp

I am trying to decide between Dailey and an integrated pump and AL pan or Aviad and a steel pan with external oil lines.

Agreed and jealous on #1 and #3.

On #2, while lower and setback of motor is excellent, I did not like a really shallow pan from my research for road course. They are available from Canton, Aviaid, etc. but I read about and talked to a couple of the dry sump companies and more specifically about location of pickups. 99% of the pans out there have pick ups on one side it seems (passenger) so I'll pick up that research again later but I'll likely get one done with the pickups right where I want them.

[FETorino]

Originally Posted by Flash68

Agreed and jealous on #1 and #3.

On #2, while lower and setback of motor is excellent, I did not like a really shallow pan from my research for road course. They are available from Canton, Aviaid, etc. but I read about and talked to a couple of the dry sump companies and more specifically about location of pickups. 99% of the pans out there have pick ups on one side it seems (passenger) so I'll pick up that research again later but I'll likely get one done with the pickups right where I want them.

Seems to me in your case you could just buy a used pan from a NASCAR team.

They race Sonoma, Watkins Glen, Road America and Montreal.

From what I've been told the low pan isn't an issue when engineered properly. a big piece of the puzzle is properly designed tank that is large enough to eliminate the aeration created when there isn't oil at the pickup.

Remember in a dry sump the oil/air is pulled out of the pan and sent to a remote tank. As long as the tank pickup point provides oil and not an oil/air mix your motor is getting the proper lube it needs.

I'm not saying the pickup location in the pan aren't important. I'm just saying they aren't important from the same perspective as in a wet sump.

At least that is how I understand it. But I'm only an assembler so I'm always open to enlightenment.

[Flash68]

Originally Posted by FETorino

Seems to me in your case you could just buy a used pan from a NASCAR team.

They race Sonoma, Watkins Glen, Road America and Montreal.

From what I've been told the low pan isn't an issue when engineered properly. a big piece of the puzzle is properly designed tank that is large enough to eliminate the aeration created when there isn't oil at the pickup.

Remember in a dry sump the oil/air is pulled out of the pan and sent to a remote tank. As long as the tank pickup point provides oil and not an oil/air mix your motor is getting the proper lube it needs.

I'm not saying the pickup location in the pan aren't important. I'm just saying they aren't important from the same perspective as in a wet sump.

At least that is how I understand it. But I'm only an assembler so I'm always open to enlightenment.

Yeah the take off Nascar pans are what I was looking at. They are all deep. 6" or deeper. That ain't workin with my clearance. I found some killer pans for great prices but just wasn't ready for it.

Yes the pickup points is an apples to oranges vs wet sump, but when I explained my goals/intentions with the car I was told a typical Nascar pan with pickup locations was not ideal, but they probably would be okay. I would want to be more than "probably okay". I was going to just have them add or relocate one of the pickups. Not a huge cost and still way cheaper than buying a brand new custom pan at over $1000.

Those damn assemblers... always meddling in others' bidness.

[FETorino]

Three things from the assembler bleachers

1 I wouldn't look for the "typical" NASCAR pan. The road race Nascar pans are probably different than the roundy round ones. I know they use different styles of radiators for each type of track I'm sure the pans are specific.

2 Even for my FE the pans are typically cheaper than $1k unless you are going for a billet pan.

3 This thread is trending too much towards you build so I imagine DB Cooper and crew will be jumping in soon to get us back off topic.

[Track Junky]

This is the pan that I am using. 7 quart, 5 trap doors, bung for oil temp sender.

[intocarss]

Originally Posted by FETorino

3 This thread is trending too much towards you build so I imagine DB Cooper and crew will be jumping in soon to get us back off topic.

Are you needing back up??

[sixnina]

Originally Posted by Track Junky

This is the pan that I am using. 7 quart, 4 trap doors, bung for oil temps.

Gaetano you got a part # on that pan if you don't mind.
Shane

[Matt@BOS]

Originally Posted by Flash68

Yeah it makes sense the added 3 quarts would help temps. It was either dry sump or accusump for me, but I wanted this modding session to be easy as possible. Dry sump presented many more changes ($$).

So you don't think you'll do any track days? Ahem, Buttonwillow! I mean, a session is a session and they are long and while my previous motor was not worth a lot of money, my new motor is and yours is big $ so I think it's cheap protection. It's pretty easy to plumb in and only a few hundred bucks for everything.

Oh, oil cooler was already done last year. Decent sized Earl's piece with -10An lines and the Mocal 180* thermostat.

Meh, I'll probably take my Ford out to Buttonwillow. We'll see. I would want to add an oil cooler and power steering cooler, as well as an accusump, which I'd want to keep out of the engine bay. I'd also need clear bra, which I never replaced after the accident, and that stuff isn't cheap either.

Question. Now, I come from LS land, so I'm not that familiar with good ol' small blocks, but the 180 degree thermostat seems low to me. What were your oil temps getting to when your old engine was still in good working condition?

Matt

[Track Junky]

Originally Posted by sixnina

Gaetano you got a part # on that pan if you don't mind.
Shane

CAN15-260

[Flash68]

Originally Posted by FETorino

Three things from the assembler bleachers

1 I wouldn't look for the "typical" NASCAR pan. The road race Nascar pans are probably different than the roundy round ones. I know they use different styles of radiators for each type of track I'm sure the pans are specific.

2 Even for my FE the pans are typically cheaper than $1k unless you are going for a billet pan.

3 This thread is trending too much towards you build so I imagine DB Cooper and crew will be jumping in soon to get us back off topic.

Just can't let it go can ya.

1 - I looked for countless pans. I bet I am second to none in hours spent scouring for good used parts. Seriously, I am a legend in that department.

2 - The nice used pans I was finding for $250-350 sell for over $1000 new. They are amazing quality. Here is an example of one made by Weiss and it is top notch (verified by their competitor who I called. LOL)



3 - No comment.

Originally Posted by Track Junky

This is the pan that I am using. 7 quart, 5 trap doors, bung for oil temp sender.

I'm still very surprised you don't run at least Accusump with your motor and your usage.

Originally Posted by Matt.A

Meh, I'll probably take my Ford out to Buttonwillow. We'll see. I would want to add an oil cooler and power steering cooler, as well as an accusump, which I'd want to keep out of the engine bay. I'd also need clear bra, which I never replaced after the accident, and that stuff isn't cheap either.

Question. Now, I come from LS land, so I'm not that familiar with good ol' small blocks, but the 180 degree thermostat seems low to me. What were your oil temps getting to when your old engine was still in good working condition?

Matt

Don't get me started (again) on bringing that new Mustang to BW.

I'm debating where to mount my Accusump right now. I like where Weld's is mounted but I don't like oil and fuel in the passenger compartment. Still I'm considering it, or possibly right behind the rear firewall.



I read about LS guys on the Corvette Forum running their oil temps up to near 300 all the time, ideally not sustained, but still most of them don't seem to care too much.

When I am up to temp on the street and track, water is 180-190 and oil is 220-240. Right where it should be ideally and where it is for Gaetano and that's who I mimicked my system after. He has the same Stat and a Setrab cooler.

I at first was worried this system did not perform well enough but after the motor revealed serious detonation that seems to explain the issue. I was not having temp issues until about 3rd lap of the 2 sessions that went bad. Very bad.