I've only built a few complete exhaust systems from scratch like you did so I'm still definitely a novice at it, but I think it's a lot of fun figuring out! Also was hoping you would decide to run it all the way out the back....having ridden in several side exhaust cars, it sounds odd to my ears only hearing part of the 8 cyls. You will be happy having the sound and fumes at the very back of the car!
Jeff-
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You remind me of the timing on a turbo engine...
It's hard to tell from the images.... What material is the tubing you used?
*EDIT*
Found my answer in post #111. I think you'll want to make sure the 'hangers' used allow for some fore/aft shift as SS likes to 'grow' when it gets hot. Certain sections will see higher heat vs others so allowing movement seems to keep things happy. Just my experience/s w/the material.
Quote:
Originally Posted by WSSix
Agreed. I would use hangers that offer more movement similar to how factory hangers work.
I did not think about that. I appreciate the info. I will look into using a more traditional/OEM style hanger. The biggest issue I am running into is the clearance. I have tucked the exhaust up tighter than factory, so space is limited.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ketzer
I've only built a few complete exhaust systems from scratch like you did so I'm still definitely a novice at it, but I think it's a lot of fun figuring out! Also was hoping you would decide to run it all the way out the back....having ridden in several side exhaust cars, it sounds odd to my ears only hearing part of the 8 cyls. You will be happy having the sound and fumes at the very back of the car!
Jeff-
I agree, Jeff. I intend to drive this as daily as possible and I did not want the exhaust pumping out right by the windows. Nothing like a good dose of Carbon Monoxide while you're cruising!
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-Matt-
'61 Biscayne ~ AKA BISKWIK
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The journey for cutting the tubing was painful in the beginning. Making clean cuts on the pipe was challenging with a 6” angle grinder. Not to mention, getting the tubing cut square on the bends. Initially I wrapped painters tape around the tubing and marked them that way. Most of the time I would end up making adjustments to my cuts to get the ends to mate up properly. That was time consuming to the say the least. I then discovered the technique of using a zip tie cinched down around the tubing. You could move it however you needed along the elbow and mark it. That allowed me to get the my cuts marked perfect every time!
It was like magic!
Another trick I learned was to use a tubing cutter. I found one that would cut up to 2 5/8” on Amazon.
It helped make the cuts perfect every time! It was a little difficult once the elbow got tighter, but it worked on the 30 degree elbows with no problem. I’ll see if I have any pics of that.
Hopefully that info helps whoever would want to tackle their own exhaust.
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Nice trick and cutter. Wish they made that cutter for a 3" stainless pipe.
Curious if you considered using an expansion joint and if so why you chose not to go that route. Great looking work BTW
Nice trick and cutter. Wish they made that cutter for a 3" stainless pipe.
Curious if you considered using an expansion joint and if so why you chose not to go that route. Great looking work BTW
Thank you for the compliment!
Are you referring to a lap joint similar to below pic?
If so, it is because the Builder’s kit I purchased did not have that option and the closest exhaust shop is an hour and a half away. That’s why I used the butt joint clamps.
I didn’t go with one since the majority of the systems I looked at did not have them. I figured between the fact the motor torques sideways and the length will be adequate enough to absorb the movement.
I didn’t go with one since the majority of the systems I looked at did not have them. I figured between the fact the motor torques sideways and the length will be adequate enough to absorb the movement.
Someone correct me if I’m wrong pls.
The more rigid the set-up, the higher the need for a flex-joint within the exhust tubing.
The 'flex' sleeves are typically needed where exhaust routing is very tight for spacing. Set-ups like this are utilizing mounting bushings (those metal tabs/hangers w/the blue bushings) that minimize movement. That 'almost fixed' mounting keeps things from moving so the movement @ the motor has to be absorbed somewhere within the exhaust system or there will most likely be a failure/crack somewhere @ a joint on the tubing.
Exhaust set-ups that have more flexible mounting/hangers & more space (the old school rubber straps or bushings used in a floating arrangement) don't necessarily need the ability to flex within the actual exhaust tubing because the system has room to expand/contract/shift w/less bind.
I understand and agree. I am planning on using the oem style hangers after what ScotI and WSSix stated earlier to accommodate for expansion and flexion. I believe I left enough room where it's needed, but we shall see.
If not, I'll have to regroup and may have to add a flex joint.
Been a while since my last post. Life has been happening along with progress. BISKWIK has been on the road and is a blast to drive! It still isn’t finished yet, but I don’t want to park it to work on it.
Anyhow, here are some pics of progress.
I installed a transmission cooler for the 4L60E. I had to find a place to mount it and then made some mounts and had them welded onto the cooler.
Of course, I had to modify the cooler to fit in the area in front of the core support.
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-Matt-
'61 Biscayne ~ AKA BISKWIK
Last edited by Cramer4918; 11-06-2025 at 04:51 PM.
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