2nd Chance Camaro - Let the Project Begin

[214Chevy]

I love the attention to detail Marty...

[Ricochet]

Looks great Marty!!! Always thinking outside the box!

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

[WSSix]

I'd go under the battery, Marty. It's not often that you have to deal with the heater hose so I don't think you need to worry about accessing them.

[syborg tt]

Originally Posted by WSSix

I'd go under the battery, Marty. It's not often that you have to deal with the heater hose so I don't think you need to worry about accessing them.

That is kinda what I am thinking. However, I just need to make sure there isn't a rubbing issue.

[syborg tt]

Moving back to the battery tray I need to figure out a good way to support the tray without over engineering it. The goal is
to come up with something simple that you wouldn't notice when you look under the car. It also has to be smooth to prevent
chaffing on the heater hoses.

Back from Ace Hardware with some supplies for my concept.



Support Sleeve.



I need to thread a 3/8" stainless steel threaded rod into the bottom of the battery tray and anchor it to the core support bracket. You need
to drill the proper size hole for the 3/8" tap. If you don't have this Tap Cheat sheet it is worth saving this as I borrowed it from someone on one
of the BB forums years ago and have referenced it many times.







Drilling a hole in your Carbon Inner Fender is kinda nerve racking.







Concept # 1 -- Create a bracket the bolts to the existing core support bracket.





Concept # 2 -- However if I bend rod just a little bit to get it to reach
the core support bracket I can bolt it directly to it.

[syborg tt]

Once again I am working on the Vintage Air lines and I need some new fittings. I headed over to Midwest Hots to pick up the new
fittings. I am very happy they made improvements as these are much better.



Prior to painting the firewall I added one new hole for the power wires for the Holley Terminator system. They made it clear in their instructions
that these wires need to be separated from all other wires in the car. So I moved them over to the passenger side of the Kick Panel.

ps Remember where these wire come out.



When I went to install the new Vintage Air fittings into the existing holes the new fittings hit the Anvil Inner fender. I starred at it for at
least 20 minutes and decided to put the old fittings back as the new ones didn't work. Hours later after lunch I took a second look and I
move the Vintage Air fittings over one hole. I as was shocked it actually fit like I had planned it. Talk about dumb luck.



I sourced "machined washer" from Grainger and installed them on the back side to act as washers.



I decided to clean out all of the metal shavings that where inside the kick panel. So I got out my trusty magnet and started fishing for
metal shavings and I actually enjoyed this task.



Test fitting the new lines and I am very happy how they look coming off the firewall.



I am going to be moving this switch to location where I can service it if needed.



I am not liking how the AC lines look under the battery tray so I am going to try to figure out a new routing.



I don't like this either so I will be adding a line clamp to keep this line safe from harm as there is a bolt poking through the core support
directly into this line.







Flipping the line put the "Switch" in a much better locations.





Shadow is back.

[syborg tt]

So I am trying to figure out a way to run the lines so they look good and if need I can service them if needed. Remember I am not building a show car I am building car that I can drive and easily fix without having to take the 1/4 of the car apart to get to stuff.



This might work and less chance of rub.







Choppy Choppy



So in order to charge the system I would need to have to trim/chop the inner fender or charge the system before I put the inner fender on.









More blue tape notes



Stepping back

http://www.garagescene.net/_data/i/u...f079b05-me.jpg

[syborg tt]

It took a little bit and I am finally happy with the location of the brake lines. So here goes nothing and if these don't work I am going to cry.

Step One remove the inner fenders...again (really I am getting good at this)



Step two remove the DSE Brake Booster (what an awesome piece) and slowly but surely loosen the nuts.









Eak !!!





Tap the hole.



and install the ARP hardware from Totally Stainless.

[fleetus macmullitz]

This car has had more facelifts than Cher!

Not that there’s anything wrong with that...

#bringbackshadow

[syborg tt]

Originally Posted by Cosmo mentis

This car has had more facelifts than Cher!

Not that there’s anything wrong with that...

#bringbackshadow

LOL - Okay Shadow will be back and Cher still looks good.