70 Chevelle performance project - Page 15 - Lateral-g Forums

Che70velle · #**141** 07-02-2014, 06:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WSSix

Good luck, Scott! Glad to see it's coming together.

Thanks a Trey! I hope you don't wait as long as I did to post updates in your thread.

**WSSix** · #**142** 07-02-2014, 02:33 PM

I have a very good reason no work and thus no updates have occurred with my build. It will be a few more months before I can work on it again too. I'm just glad I have my scooter play around on in the mean time.

novaboy7272 · #**143** 07-04-2014, 10:25 AM

Hey Scott. Your build is awesome and a great inspiration. I have a 69 Chevelle and wanted to do the same type of thing you did to your frame. Did you self bend all the tubing or do you know of a kit i could get. Again, the build looks wicked. Keep up the great work.

-Andy

Che70velle · #**144** 07-05-2014, 07:57 AM

Andy I bent everything myself. Both new crossmembers, and the tubes running front to back, are coped into the frame, meaning I used a holesaw the size of the tube, and the new tubes go into the frame, and are welded from both sides. I have changed the mid-crossmember, the one that turns up and just touches the floor in front of the rear seat. It has been cut out and replaced with 1 1/2" x 1/2" plate that now turns down and goes below the driveshaft. I thought that during mock up my mufflers would fit behind the one that I made first, but no dice. Now the mufflers are sitting on top of the new flat crossmember. I'll try to find a new picture...
I know that there are kits out there, but you'll have to do some research. Shoot just order a chassis from Roadster Shop and get it over with.

Thanks for the props!

Ron in SoCal · #**145** 07-05-2014, 08:21 AM

Tyler at HPI makes a kit I believe.

novaboy7272 · #**146** 07-05-2014, 01:02 PM

Thanks Scott (and Ron),

I'll do some research on kits. But i do have a welding questions. I've only welded with my Mig thus far in my restoration/rebuilding experience. I've used it for all of the body work i've done, and even welding parts of the frame on my Chevelle and my old nova (which is sold now). However, attempting what you've don with your frame seems like strength and taking your time with the welds is important. I know i've done what i've thought to be "good strong welds" with my Mig on thick steel before, but do you suggest getting a Tig for this type of frame fabrication? Just wondering. Thanks again for the help and keep the pictures coming.

**WSSix** · #**147** 07-05-2014, 01:23 PM

A good 110v mig will do just fine, Andy.

novaboy7272 · #**148** 07-05-2014, 02:26 PM

Awesome, thanks Trey. Didn't want to have to wait to buy a Tig, but i was willing if it was really that much more preferred.

**GregWeld** · #**149** 07-05-2014, 04:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by novaboy7272

Awesome, thanks Trey. Didn't want to have to wait to buy a Tig, but i was willing if it was really that much more preferred.

A good weld is a good weld... the TIG is better for doing fine sheet metal work... in the hands of a skilled welder. And TIG is really for the guy that wants to work with Stainless and Aluminum as well as mild steel (although you can weld both with the right MIG setup).

A TIG bead is easier to clean up than a MIG bead - but if you're not building a RIDLER car - who cares..

The key to either is not to make a cold weld with little or no penetration. I see many welds done and shown on this website that I wouldn't want to drive or ride in the car... and any experienced welder can see what I'm talking about.

Che70velle · #**150** 07-05-2014, 10:00 PM

Andy I currently do all my welding with a huge Miller mig setup. I do plan on getting a tig in the future, as Greg said, for sheetmetal work. I took metal fabrication classes, and was taught how to make sure welds penetrate correctly. I have some ugly welds on this chassis, but they are sound.