Norwood

[Sieg]

I finally got around to tearing into the rear end to upgrade my axle's 7/16" wheel studs to match the 1/2" ARP front studs. Embarrassingly for as long as I've been a Lat-G member I thought I had installed C-clip eliminators years ago and thus had postponed installing rear disc brakes! Guess that's what happens when you have a car 24+ years and get into your mid 50's..........

Anyway after contacting Moser and verifying I could simply tap the existing 7/16" press in stud holes since they are drilled the same size that's required for a 1/2-20 tap I tore into it today so when the ARP studs arrive in a day or two I'll be ready to button it back up.

First thing was to insure the tap would be square so I made a quick jig from scrap laying around.


The other concern was being able to get the rear cover off and be able to properly seal it during the reinstall due to clearance with the Flowmaster transverse muffler. Tight but doable.


The other motivation is I wasn't positive of the rear end ratio as the last time the cover was off was in '92.........I think. 14/44/3.38 confirmed.


Side shots with freshly threaded axles waiting for studs.

[rickpaw]

Keep us posted on your wheel stud install Sieg. I'm about to upgrade front brakes with 1/2 ARP studs, and have the same 7/16" studs out back.

[Sieg]

Originally Posted by rickpaw

Keep us posted on your wheel stud install Sieg. I'm about to upgrade front brakes with 1/2 ARP studs, and have the same 7/16" studs out back.

Tu - With my Moser axles it was simple. The press in studs popped out easily, tapping was tedious but good exercise, all that's left is to screw in the studs and reinstall the axles. I'd assume stock axles would be similar other than slightly stubborn studs due to rust.

[rickpaw]

Originally Posted by Sieg

Tu - With my Moser axles it was simple. The press in studs popped out easily, tapping was tedious but good exercise, all that's left is to screw in the studs and reinstall the axles. I'd assume stock axles would be similar other than slightly stubborn studs due to rust.

I had a shop pressed in new 7/16" stud when I converted the rearend to disc brake, so it should not be too hard to tap them out. I'm a bit more worry about tapping the holes, as my hands are not as steady as they used to be.

Tu

[Sieg]

Originally Posted by rickpaw

I had a shop pressed in new 7/16" stud when I converted the rearend to disc brake, so it should not be too hard to tap them out. I'm a bit more worry about tapping the holes, as my hands are not as steady as they used to be.

Tu

If you can't make a tap guide like I did get one something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Hand-Tap-Guide.../dp/B000ZN30U4

I also used a longer T-bar in the tap holder which helped a lot.

[intocarss]

Nice job. I've never heard of or didn't think they had a "3.38" GM 12 bolt gear ratio, Is It an after market gear??

[Sieg]

Originally Posted by intocarss

Nice job. I've never heard of or didn't think they had a "3.38" GM 12 bolt gear ratio, Is It an after market gear??

Well my tooth count was 44 x 13 Ring divided pinion equaled 3.38. However those are big numbers for me to count Could be 43/13 3:30's, either way they're not 3:55's or 3:73's which I'd consider optimum. 3:73 concern me due to noise.......seems that ratio just isn't quite.

[intocarss]

Originally Posted by Sieg

Well my tooth count was 44 x 13 Ring divided pinion equaled 3.38. However those are big numbers for me to count Could be 43/13 3:30's, either way they're not 3:55's or 3:73's which I'd consider optimum. 3:73 concern me due to noise.......seems that ratio just isn't quite.

How about 3.42 41x12

[Sieg]

Sieg's Stud Service........



Has a nice ring to it.

[GregWeld]

I called -- Amy is not real keen on the new business name.




Don't forget the locktite.




Looks good!