Fronts are whatever DSE uses and the rear are Alston or where they source.
I've got a call into hypercoil. I may as well stay with the same brand on all four corners. What do you recommend Rodger?
Ridetech is selling Hyperco's now. The DSE units may very well be Hyperco.
The selction alston has is not broad enough for tuning a little bit. Plus the lengths are all over the map. I had problem on my car since it is so light so I switched to Hyperco's just for the selection.
Does it ever end? Tonight I pulled my front and rear coil overs in anticipation of the new hypercoils coming pony express.
I designed some new shock mounting plates to give me an additional 1/2" of rear shock travel at ride height. After removing the springs I bolted on the new shock plates and simulated max shock travel. My measurements are right on the money. The chassis and body won't accept any more shock travel. The pinion housing is about a pinkie away from the crossmember and the rear pumpkin cover is fairly close. The aluminun shock mount was originally designed to be bolted to the rear end housing without a bracket. I had to move it due to wheel to shock contact due to wheel flex under load way back.
I now realize that the original design with my pinioin angle at the time would've caused rear end to cross member contact. I used to run equal and opposite U joint angles. Now I run the car with the smallest u joint angles possible. That changed the shock angle and now they aren't in an alignment with the bracket that suits me. I'm going to change to a ball bearing mounting to eliminate any bind while it's apart.
The front springs show sings of coil bind. As you can see, the collars are farther up the housing than I realized. I think it's a combination of a soft front spring and a way to soft rear spring. The moral of the story is the rear shocks were bottoming out and the front springs were coil binding. I may as well have been racing a hay wagon.
The chassis and body won't accept any more shock travel. The pinion housing is about a pinkie away from the crossmember and the rear pumpkin cover is fairly close.
is this with both wheels compressed the same? if so, you may want to leave a little more travel so that you can have a little more bump travel in turns.
ex. your pinion could touch when both wheels are fully compressed, but you can then move one wheel up and one down without moving the pinion location (same as a turn). if you set the max when the center of your housing touches the crossmember or trunk floor and your axle tubes, tires, brackets etc. dont, youre giving up a little bump travel.
you probably already took this into consideration though.
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"The WidowMaker"
70 Chevelle Pro Touring - Garage Built, Backyard Painted
Custom 4 Link & Watts, Rushforth Wheels, Ats Spindles, McLeod RXT Twin Clutch, T56 Magnum, C6Z Calipers & Ring Bros Hinges
Special Thanks To: Rushforth Wheels ; Kore3 ; SC&C
Build Thread : https://lateral-g.net/forums/show...ght=widowmaker