Greg, you get wood on the ball once and a while.

Getting the most out of a car with 666 hp is no easy feat. These recent desert hail marys remind me of just how insanely fast this car accelerates. My lack of road racing skills doesn't keep the engine in it's optimum RPM range. At the Optima Challenge I was leaving it in 3rd gear going onto the front and back straight. It needed to be in 2nd. That would've made a considerable difference. That's why I've been working on rpm matching. My car is really hard to heel toe. In fact, I've been practicing timing with just the gas and clutch. I've got to work onthe primary squirter a little yet. Autocross is another animal. I rarely shift out of 2nd gear.
Jason, if I knew then what I know now...

Pretty sure I should be charging a consulting fee of some sort around here.
Floating rear end or a floating rear caliper(Good bye knock back) I've swapped axle and bearings, shimmed bearings, and switched master cylinders to make it so I don't pump brakes on the track. I still have knockback, it's just managable in all situations now.
4-7 cam swap (Pretty sure my harmonic vibration between 2650-2950 is induced by the extra crank stroke/the firing order change is supposed to smooth out conventional small/big blocks) Definitely an educated guess. The only nuisance now is in 5th in that range. The rubber passenger mount and steering knuckle almost eliminated it completely in 1-4 BOTH engines have had it.
Found Jason Pettis at Pettis Performance the first go round. Jason builds one hell of an engine and really gives a damn.
Rubber mount the drivetrain completely. I know a factory interlocking mount won't cut it on the drivers side. Adapt say a ZR1 motor mount.
Use more GM parts. They are reasonable priced and more servicable.
DSE quadralink- I've spent way to much time making this g bar work. (Moving shock mounts, springs, end links, shock travel)
T56 magnum- I'd slice the tunnel and make it fit along with running extremely small working angles. 1-2 degrees. I'll end up with a modified 600 or RS 600 eventually. The stock tko 600 is a workhorse but it shifts like a school bus.
Lighter weight- Aluminum hood, no sub box, elinimate the back seat, etc
Install a console
Seats that allow a 5 point harness
Clear bra from day 1
Tinted the factory glass-Aftermarket fits like shiat
Spent less money

I coud've cut some corners here and there. I've got way to much money in this car. It's really easy to get sucked into this hobby and think you must have all the newest most expensive stuff. (Tail lights, hinges, fender braces, aluminum block

) At the end of the day, you don't need all the newest highest priced stuff to compete in these events or drive from point a to b.
With all that being said, I have no regrets. This is my first real rodeo building a car from scratch. I thought I was one hell of a mechanic before this project started. When I worked on cars for a living, I liked drivability the best because it came down to trouble shooting and finding a solution. Working the bugs out of the car and using it has really been the funnest part of the build for me.