One man brake bleeder recommendation

[Sieg]

Originally Posted by Ron in SoCal

I appreciate all the replies! Sounds like you guys have it figured out. I think I'd prefer to push the fluid from the Master out of the calipers. One question: I have the Wilwood resi:

http://www.wilwood.com/Images/Master...0-12696-lg.jpg

EDIT: Tech Sheet - http://www.wilwood.com/PDF/DataSheets/ds974.pdf

Any idea if the Motive or H-Freight master cylinder adapters would work?

Ron,

Can you buy another Wilwood master cylinder top and put a valve in it?

[Ron in SoCal]

Originally Posted by Sieg

Ron,

Can you buy another Wilwood master cylinder top and put a valve in it?

Brilliant!

[Sieg]

[cluxford]

Made my own, cost under $15

Canister, drill 2 holes.
5m of clear plastic tube. This runs to the bleeder at the wheel
another 30cm of clear plastic tube, connects to the vacuum hose to the manifold (that also connects to the booster)

Put both tubes into the canister (I siliconed them in).

1 goes all the way to the bottom, 1 stays up toward the top.

Now stand by the MC, as it drains fluid fast so you need to be there to "top up" the MC

Start the car, let the engine do the work.

I bled all 4 wheels in under 10 mins

Just like the Mightyvac, but cheaper, quicker and less work

[JpRngr]

I have one of the Motive ones and it works great providing you can get the adapters to seal correctly. Most of the time it's just a matter of getting it tightened down enough and equally. Two biggest issues I have with it are a lack of a pressure relief valve(to release pressure before removing it), and the tubing sucks. It doesn't last but a couple years(sucks when it splits and you have a stream of brake fluid going all over your paint).


Corey

[Ketzer]

I also made my own that pressurizes the M/C.
Used a garden pump sprayer, some spare air chuck fittings, and made my own M/C cover plate out of some scrap aluminum plate I had ( but what Sieg suggested is golden). Threaded rod and wingnuts to hold the plate down. Plenty of youtube videos on it.

I have a MityVac that pulls vacuum at the bleeder, but never really felt like it did that great of a job.


Jeff-

[SSLance]

With these kits that pressurize the brakes from the top of the master cylinder, do you just top off the brake fluid, put the MC top on and pump pressure into it...which is relieved from the bleeder screws on the calipers?

If so, at some point you have to take the top off and add fluid to the MC correct? And like mentioned above, is it messy when you take the top loose while there is still pressure on the system from the pumped in air?

[Ketzer]

Originally Posted by SSLance

With these kits that pressurize the brakes from the top of the master cylinder, do you just top off the brake fluid, put the MC top on and pump pressure into it...which is relieved from the bleeder screws on the calipers?

If so, at some point you have to take the top off and add fluid to the MC correct? And like mentioned above, is it messy when you take the top loose while there is still pressure on the system from the pumped in air?

With my homemade unit, I put brake fluid in the garden sprayer. As I release the bleeder screw, it pulls in fluid from the sprayer to replace what's coming out. The master cylinder level stays the same.

The garden sprayer has a simple "pull up to release pressure" valve on the jug so I can let the pressure off when done. There is no pressure when I take the M/C lid off and so far this system does not overfill the M/C.

A couple things to point out,
It doesn't take a ton of pressure to do the bleeding, nothing like actual brake line pressure.
I use simple air chucks and fittings so I can leave the lid on and quick disconnect from the front reservoir to move to the rear.


Jeff-

[SSLance]

Interesting... Thanks for the reply.

[chetly]

The trick with the motive power pump is to not put the brake fluid in the tank. The plastic hose they use doesn't like brake fluid for some reason. As long as you don't let your master get to low, you won't push any air into the system.