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  #11  
Old 07-21-2017, 02:36 AM
Nativefx Nativefx is offline
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Picture of where we are at currently. We haven't started the metal work which will have a number of slick touches. Some of the things I'm using Flush fit glass, shaving and using flush door handles and grafting an all metal rear spoiler onto the body. The dash will be reconstructed to provide space for all things I want to mount.
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Sub frame with level sensors installed. Hydratech Hydroboost and Baer Remaster
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LS3 with Wegner Diamond Cut front drive. Don't worry, the ducting is only to help us figure out spacing for mounting other items.
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Firebird front end which will also get some work done later on. Still mulling some ideas.......
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  #12  
Old 07-21-2017, 10:19 AM
rickpaw rickpaw is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tinker View Post
I do, here are a few.
Thanks Chris.

Nativefx, nice looking car. Is there a build thread?
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  #13  
Old 07-21-2017, 10:44 AM
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Going to be a wicked car when it's done! Keep it up man, let me know if I can help out at all.
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  #14  
Old 07-22-2017, 08:58 PM
kmart401 kmart401 is offline
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What gearbox are you running? Thats one wicked ride!! Can't wait to see more pics of this one!
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  #15  
Old 07-26-2017, 02:37 PM
Nativefx Nativefx is offline
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Originally Posted by rickpaw View Post
Thanks Chris.

Nativefx, nice looking car. Is there a build thread?
No I don't have a build thread. When this started out 3 years ago, I picked up this firebird for $2800 and figured I could get the stock motor running and have a fun driver, and then figure out what upgrades I could make. Well from there, it has morphed into this! haha Now its a full on build and much more than I imagined when I bought it for a fun bday present to myself. Never imagined it would be worthy of a pro-touring build thread.
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  #16  
Old 07-26-2017, 02:39 PM
Nativefx Nativefx is offline
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What gearbox are you running? Thats one wicked ride!! Can't wait to see more pics of this one!
Running a close ratio T-56 Magnum mated to a 9" floater rear end with 3.89 gears.
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  #17  
Old 07-26-2017, 05:19 PM
jlwdvm jlwdvm is offline
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We have similar taste...check this out: http://www.pro-touring.com/threads/1...rack-car-build

I have DSE subframe connectors and a Alston 8-point cage with solid body mounts. I have about 150 miles on the car so far. Shaking it down before paint...69 Trans Am scheme. Its extremely loud and fast. I think I'm just gonna fab up some aluminum door panels and a rear seat delete. Not gonna put windows in it to save weight and hassel. It will never see rain anyway!
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  #18  
Old 07-27-2017, 12:29 AM
Nativefx Nativefx is offline
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Originally Posted by jlwdvm View Post
We have similar taste...check this out: http://www.pro-touring.com/threads/1...rack-car-build

I have DSE subframe connectors and a Alston 8-point cage with solid body mounts. I have about 150 miles on the car so far. Shaking it down before paint...69 Trans Am scheme. Its extremely loud and fast. I think I'm just gonna fab up some aluminum door panels and a rear seat delete. Not gonna put windows in it to save weight and hassel. It will never see rain anyway!
It's been awhile since I came across your build thread! I'll have to check out your updates. Maybe it will help on a few other things I'm thinking about.
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  #19  
Old 08-05-2017, 02:06 AM
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The front of the subframe needs support more than the rear subframe does. The stock sub is terrible in torsion ahead of the firewall. The front sheet metal contributes to half the front torsional rigidity. jlwdvm, - If you do a roll bar or cage, I highly recommend adding a diagonal brace to the main hoop. SCCA requires it, and it's a main component of any good roll bar. It can be removable by adding some double shear brackets.
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Last edited by David Pozzi; 08-05-2017 at 05:16 PM.
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  #20  
Old 08-05-2017, 12:55 PM
Nativefx Nativefx is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David Pozzi View Post
The front sub needs support more than the rear does. The stock sub is terrible in torsion. The front sheet metal contributes to half the front torsional rigidity. jlwdvm, - If you do a roll bar or cage, always add a diagonal brace to the main hoop. SCCA requires it, and it's a main component of any good roll bar.
Thanks David. Any advise on how I can better support the front sub? Would something like the Alston subframe connector cross braces help with this? I'm open to other ideas as I really don't think I want to put a cage in it. thanks
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