Paint/Finish Question

[JD67SS]

Originally Posted by dhutton

I would try shimming up the core support bushings to fix the fender gaps before going at it with a welder. Hard to say for sure without better pics. A half inch is a huge gap.

Don

Post some close ups of the bad areas and the gap issues

JD

[Tony V]

Plan on it when I get it back home this week.


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[syborg tt]

Originally Posted by Tony V

Hard to see issues with these pics....i need to load more. but the door to fender gaps are bad...too tight on the bottom and >1/2" on top. ]

Are you running subframe connectors that are bolted or welded it in ?

If they are welded in them it’s possible your core support needs shims.

You need to look at the six mounting points and see if they shimmed anything and do you remember if there where any shims before the car was disassembled before paint ?

I would work on all panel fitting before you do any paint correction.


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[LS1 TJ]

Bummer about your project. But as said above attack it slowly but by shimming and aligning the front sub frame you may be OK.. It may come out well. Keep in mind that if unless the body shop welded and ground the fender/door gaps they won't be any better than 1969 gaps which weren't good.
What won't be good is if you try to straighten waves by sanding the clear. That has to done with the under laying body work.
I not a body guy but my best car buddy is and I show him these threads and ask for his advice.

[dhutton]

Originally Posted by LS1 TJ

What won't be good is if you try to straighten waves by sanding the clear. That has to done with the under laying body work.
I not a body guy but my best car buddy is and I show him these threads and ask for his advice.

The wave is in the clear. Urethane wave. Generally caused by hammering on the clear. Google it....

Don

[66fury]

i wouldn't think the car would need to be stripped and redone unless its a total abortion.you chose them to do the work so I'm sure you checked them out before giving them your baby.i bet its not horrible to the point of a redo.may not be what you were expecting but no paint job is flawless until the hundreds of hours of cutting and buffing are done.if its gapped bad that's another issue.why not block it again rebase it and clear it?

[NOPANTS68]

I'd re-gap it, weld up your holes and keep your bodywork tight, block what's on it, and just re-base/clear the thing. You'll be money and time ahead and ultimately get what you paid for. The good news is you won't need to do any jambing on it, but assuming they painted it apart, you will have an edge in the door jamb.

[Tony V]

Here’s the latest, trying work a deal out where I can come in during the weekend and weeknights to work it myself. Initially I’ll take 800 grit to the clear coat and see if we can get it straight. I also need to post some pics so I can show the issues.

Thanks for all the help and advice....btw they did screw up the core support bushings which helped the door gaps, so we’re on to something. A couple lessons learned prior to dropping the car off...I’ll post so everyone can benefit from.


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[XLexusTech]

Tony.. would you consider doing a Wrap. ?

PS sorry for your troubles..

[Tony V]

Ok, another twist the owner reached out yesterday and said he wasn’t happy with it and will take the it all the way down and start over. He apologized it’s taking too long and said he’ll get it right. Keep in mind we’ve never had any angry words just conversations and Me just stating how unsatisfied I was. The two guys he initially had on the car when I first brought it in doesn’t work there anymore and that’s where the root cause was. Honestly it’s the right decision and he’s now taking it in the shorts but having two idiots working for you will come back to bite you sooner or later. Thx for all the advice...and yes I’m going to be spending some time helping and guiding it through.


No wraps, just not into them.


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