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  #11  
Old 01-17-2006, 04:47 PM
TravisB TravisB is offline
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no cam gurus on here?????
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  #12  
Old 01-18-2006, 08:48 PM
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rocketman rocketman is offline
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with that eagle crank you will want to align-hone anyway.it wont need studs,good bolts and stock caps.or use some billet caps but you really dont need them.are them alumiun heads.i would use a demon carb for it.sounds good though,will be screamer.just a guess i bet around 550-575 horse
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  #13  
Old 01-19-2006, 07:54 PM
Davezz28 Davezz28 is offline
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What are your planned use for the motor (street, drag, road coarse)? What rear gear ratio? how much does the car weigh?

If you are planning to run a solid roller on the street you should invest in the best lifters and springs that you can get.

Roller lifters were designed for more of a racing application and dont take kindly to idling or stop and go situations. The lubrication for the roller bearings come from oil splashing up onto the roller. In a low RPM situation, you get very little oil getting down into the rollers for lubrication.

To add to the problem, rollers require a lot more spring presure to keep the roller in contact with the cam. If the roller don't stay in contact with the cam the skid and bounce off the cam and this will destroy the bearings in the rollers.

I would suggest Isky Red Zone, or Crower lifters with the HIPPO (Hi Pressure Pin Oiling) option. Both of these lifters use pressurized oil to directly feed the roller bearings in the lifters. The Iskys are what I am using, they are rebuildable.

I would also suggest the use of a rev-kit to help keep the lifter in contact with the cam.

Finaly, I would suggest you get as good as springs as you can. Since that cam in a 383 will peak HP around 6200-6500 RPM, you don't need super heavy springs. I am running a similar cam 244/254 @ .050 in a 388 and I plan on running Isky tool room springs with around 175# on the seat and around 425 open. If you use a lot of spring pressure, you are putting a heavy load on the roller bearings, but if you are too light on pressure your lifter will loose contact with the cam. It is a dance to get the right ballance of spring pressure.

The rest of the combo looks ok. The Dart heads don't have real good flow out of the box but I understand they port up nicely. Steel main caps are nice but the stock 4 bolt caps with studs will take quit a bit of HP. If you are going to spray the motor the main caps would be nice insurance.

With alum heads and that cam, I would shoot for around 10.5 CR. Keep the quench tight and you should be able to tune it to run on pump gas.

As far as the carb goes, I would look at the 830 holley or one of the BG carbs with annular boosters.

Dave

Last edited by Davezz28; 01-19-2006 at 07:56 PM.
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  #14  
Old 01-20-2006, 09:59 PM
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have you bought the crank and stuff yet.a 393 runs alot better than 383,but just throwing an idea at you.
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Old 01-23-2006, 02:55 PM
TravisB TravisB is offline
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hey thanks guys...I am running a T56, 4.10 gears, car should weight around 3400. Dave it will basically be a show car with th ocassional trip to cruise night..I plan on buying the isky lifters I have heard great things about them! I have been down the hydraulic roller route and was not pleased with the RPM range limitations

I dropped the block off this weekend

here is the new list

388 SBC
4 bolt main
machine work is done
already has studs and has been align honed
eagle rotationg assembly
JE pistons Flat tops
brodix 215cc CNC ported heads?????probably
super vic
cam is going to be around 250-256@50 615-630 lift but I do not have the exact specs as of right now
will probably get a chuck nuytten carb
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  #16  
Old 01-23-2006, 03:05 PM
TravisB TravisB is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rocketman
have you bought the crank and stuff yet.a 393 runs alot better than 383,but just throwing an idea at you.

we talked about a 392 but hea said the extra clearancing would get close to water unless we went with a different rod(i.e. more expensive) we ended up going with a eagle H-beam 5.850 rod
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  #17  
Old 01-23-2006, 08:56 PM
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you must be using a stock block.oh well,it's all good.did you order the heads.good choice on rods.if you need a eagle deal let me know.i suggest comp lifters.but that jmo.c&s in st louis does awesome carbs.if you like a vic jr on this motor to had a little more bottom end a sup vic is alot of intake for a 383.anyway if you need anything let me know.sounds like you have it covered.
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  #18  
Old 01-24-2006, 03:27 PM
TravisB TravisB is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rocketman
you must be using a stock block.oh well,it's all good.did you order the heads.good choice on rods.if you need a eagle deal let me know.i suggest comp lifters.but that jmo.c&s in st louis does awesome carbs.if you like a vic jr on this motor to had a little more bottom end a sup vic is alot of intake for a 383.anyway if you need anything let me know.sounds like you have it covered.

I have been talking to another guy in upstate new york about a top end package....he is telling me I can go with handported darts a custom ground hydraulic roller to match the heads he wants to port my intake...says it will make peak power at 6500-6700 turn 7000 RPM and make 550hp pretty easy!

oh and rocketman yes it is a stock 4 bolt main block or I would have went bigger....
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  #19  
Old 01-24-2006, 06:36 PM
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cool,you tlk to eagle or shaifrof.both are good engine builders
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