Need Help: Water Pump Removed - Heating Issue?

[camaro1969]

not pushing RPM too high, keeping it pretty conservative when driving it. I have a feeling its the china brand water pump stuck on there. The tstat is few months old, i can replace it with a new one. Running 180, should i run a higher or lower temp tstat?

i have ordered a thermo gun, should have the car back together and running temp results shortly.

thanks for the advice, keep you updated soon.

[Vince@Meanstreets]

keep the 180...I think Todd might be on to something. What kinda fan again? Size? Does it have one of those closed up shrouds? What else is infront of the radiator?

I would definatly double check the temp with an infrared. I have seen a few 15 20 degrees off.

while you have the infrared out, check the radiator for cold spots. That would indicate a plugged radiator row.

[GregWeld]

Originally Posted by Vegas69

I agree that it should run cooler than 200 down the freeway unless you are turning some rpms or you have a 195 tstat. It's to early to rule out the fan for low speed operation in my opinion.

The fact that it's NOT CLIMBING at freeway speeds (and there shouldn't be any fan on at freeway speeds) is why I'm thinking his temp gauge may be off be as much as 20*


But to your point Todd - and it's a good one - the fan should also be capable of keeping the car near the thermostats rated temp if the cooling system itself is in good order. If not - then the fan(s) need to be looked at.

So with that in mind --- WHAT IS CONTROLLING THE FAN(S)?? Do you have a separate fan switch? Is it electronic etc?

[Sieg]

Radiator cap and coolant recovery system condition?

[camaro1969]

Originally Posted by Vince@MSperfab

keep the 180...I think Todd might be on to something. What kinda fan again? Size? Does it have one of those closed up shrouds? What else is infront of the radiator?

I would definatly double check the temp with an infrared. I have seen a few 15 20 degrees off.

while you have the infrared out, check the radiator for cold spots. That would indicate a plugged radiator row.

The fan sucks quite of bit of air from the outside. The shroud is build on to the radiator, see image. The fan housing measures 17 inches.

When the temp gun comes, i will preform a list of checks.

[camaro1969]

Originally Posted by GregWeld

The fact that it's NOT CLIMBING at freeway speeds (and there shouldn't be any fan on at freeway speeds) is why I'm thinking his temp gauge may be off be as much as 20*


But to your point Todd - and it's a good one - the fan should also be capable of keeping the car near the thermostats rated temp if the cooling system itself is in good order. If not - then the fan(s) need to be looked at.

So with that in mind --- WHAT IS CONTROLLING THE FAN(S)?? Do you have a separate fan switch? Is it electronic etc?

Fan is running once car is started.

[camaro1969]

Originally Posted by Sieg

Radiator cap and coolant recovery system condition?

13 psi becool rad cap.

I have an aluminum canister recovery system in place, new condition, rubber hose is also new condition.

[Vince@Meanstreets]

Originally Posted by camaro1969

The fan sucks quite of bit of air from the outside. The shroud is build on to the radiator, see image. The fan housing measures 17 inches.

When the temp gun comes, i will preform a list of checks.

I have always had air flow issues with that type of shroud. As designed you a reducing through radiator air flow by at least 50% with the single fan. Add a trans cooler and AC condensor and it's going to be tough to keep the engine cool.
If you look at high end shrouds they have a number of rubber flaps to increase air flow at speed. Sitting still your fan should be running at temp.

[Vince@Meanstreets]

Not saying its the cause of your problem but it is a contributer.

[GregWeld]

Plenty of fan!


Okay --- if the fan is RUNNING all the time -- it's going to cause blockage at cruising speeds when it's not needed at all....


A simple fan switch and relay -- such as this, or similar, would be all that is needed to add fan control. It simply shorts to GROUND when the temp reaches "X" -- you can buy these in various temp ranges.


http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-890017/overview/


Do you have Air Conditioning?? If so then it gets a little more complicated and you'd need a Trinary switch in the A/C system.


Stupid question -- but you said the thermostat is "new".... but hopefully it's not installed upside down? Did you have this issue and is that why a replacement thermostat??


ASSume the system was "Burped".... i.e., after filling -- the cap was left off the radiator -- until it opened and you could see hot water circulating in the radiator. Sometimes this can create a mess if you fill it too full as there can be air trapped and when the thermostat opens you get a big belch of water out of the radiator... so I always leave it low -- and add water after it's run a bit and the burping is all done.



Next up -- is -- once you get 'er back together -- measure at the thermostat housing. Also at the inlet hose and outlet hose. Also a couple places around the head to check for hot spots. You should have at least a 20* DROP in temp from the top of the radiator where the hot water comes in = to the bottom where it re-enters the pump. That will check for adequate flow in the radiator.

THEN after you've ruled out a cooling system malfunction --- LET'S DISCUSS where your timing and timing curve is set -- and give us some details about that and the motor -- aluminum heads or not - big cam or not - initial timing - total timing - and springs used to set the curve -- then is it vacuum advance or not and has that been checked to see how much advance that's pulling in. And at what vacuum is it adding curve.

Do you have a dial back timing light??