|
09-19-2010, 07:06 PM
|
|
Senior Member
|
|
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Northville, MI
Posts: 474
Thanks: 3
Thanked 11 Times in 10 Posts
|
|
Long time and no updates. Work got crazy and is just starting to normalize. Anyway, car is fully disassembled. Quarters are partially removed. MIG welder is here. Car is just temporarily braced. Full bracing should be in place in the next week or 2. Since I'm new to bodywork, I'm struggling with a game plan. While the quarters are off, I'm going to do the mini tubs. After that, I'm kind of stumped. Should I replace the quarter before removing the floorpan? Should I buy the trunk lid first and use for quarter fitment? There are a few dents with creases in the roof. Should I replace that while I'm at it? What about shaving the window gutters? I guess that's the fun part about the first time.
Anyway, based on the recent Art Morrison video, I'm thinking about going full AME chassis (triangulated 4- bar rear). I was always planning on their front clip, so not too much of a change. I love the new Dakota Digital VHX Analog gauges. Those will be going into the Anvil dash. Remaining dash will be wrapped in CF vinyl and black leather. Transmission is still up in the air. Since I work for ZF, I'm going to see if I can get a 2nd gen 6HP or maybe even an 8HP in their. The 6HP in my previous car shifted so fast I think it would better fit my intentions as a uber high performance driver. We'll see. T56 is not a bad fall back plan. Good news is I don't think I'll need a new trunk floor pan. Bad news is I probably need a new cowl.
As for final color - I'm between two. Since I'm planning to do CF hood and trunklid, I would love for some to show through. I think pearl white with Scuderia style stripes would look awesome. Otherwise, I'll probably go midnight metallic blue like I did on my last 'Bird. Always loved the color. That's a long way off, so I'm likely to change my mind several times before I actually get it painted.
My goals are as follows:
1.) Metalwork done over winter (except AME rear fab work).
2.) Chem dip with e-coat done late winter / early spring.
3.) Buy AME chassis (at least rear but hopefully front as well) late spring
4.) Finish bodywork / paint next winter
5.) Purchase engine / transmission (next spring)
6.) Finished (fall 2012)
Given that I have about 30-40k miles of flying planned by end of year, we'll see what happens.
Any input / feedback / thoughts would be appreciated.
|
10-24-2010, 09:49 PM
|
|
Senior Member
|
|
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Northville, MI
Posts: 474
Thanks: 3
Thanked 11 Times in 10 Posts
|
|
Moving along...
So I'm plugging along as I get time. Most panel removal is complete. The problem is that the more I pull off, the more I want to replace. Ugh. Drip rails weren't that concerning, but now I think I'm going to replace the trunk pan. It's solid, but pitted way more than I expected. I went at it with a rust remover pad on my grinder, made a big mess, but not much progress on the rust. The main problem is that I want to do a AME rear suspension and am starting to worry about getting the panels lined back up. Especially as I keep pulling off panels! Anyone have any experience with this? Any input would be much appreciated.
|
10-25-2010, 01:15 AM
|
|
Senior Member
|
|
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 662
Thanks: 0
Thanked 17 Times in 12 Posts
|
|
As I'm doing my car, I'm trying to fix one area at a time. This way, the rest of the car is still there to support and align things.
Because most of yours is apart, I recomment a lot of cleckos and sheet metal screws to temporarily put it back together before you weld everything up. The current and last month's issue of Car Craft covers a shop rebodying a 68 mustang coupe into a fast back. Many of the technical "how to" may be of help for you.
I hope this is helpful
Keep the pics coming!
|
12-04-2010, 08:44 PM
|
|
Senior Member
|
|
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Northville, MI
Posts: 474
Thanks: 3
Thanked 11 Times in 10 Posts
|
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tuske427
As I'm doing my car, I'm trying to fix one area at a time. This way, the rest of the car is still there to support and align things.
Because most of yours is apart, I recomment a lot of cleckos and sheet metal screws to temporarily put it back together before you weld everything up. The current and last month's issue of Car Craft covers a shop rebodying a 68 mustang coupe into a fast back. Many of the technical "how to" may be of help for you.
I hope this is helpful
Keep the pics coming!
|
Doesn't look like they braced too much, just fit everything with screws. Makes me feel better as I want to get the floors and mini tubs done while the car is apart.
I'm starting to wish I just saved and bought a Dynacorn shell. Although I'd still end up hacking it apart to do the mini tubs and rear suspension. I hope once I'm finished, I feel like I made the right decision.
|
12-05-2010, 12:17 AM
|
|
Supporting Member
|
|
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Jacksonville Florida
Posts: 1,126
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
|
|
Looks like you got your hands full, whatever you do, don't give up.Try to weld braces to keep the rest of it in shape. Post more pics of the progress.If you need a good deal on AMD sheetmetal,let me know, I'll hook you up.
__________________
Stefan B. Do what's right,not what's easy!
Elite Custom Body
1998 Supra APU 6spd
2007 TBSS
1998 GS400TT widebody
1969 Firebird
1979 Firebird LS3,DSE,Baer
1938 Dodge LC pickup
|
12-11-2010, 12:47 PM
|
|
Senior Member
|
|
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Northville, MI
Posts: 474
Thanks: 3
Thanked 11 Times in 10 Posts
|
|
Got the roof and quarters from Classic Industries thanks to the 20% off coupon. Roof appears to fit good just loosely placed. Likely not going to get far until the new year. It's off to Germany tonight for the 8th time this year. Ugh. Got some naval jelly to start rust removal but now it's too cold too rinse off. May go back to the acid dip route so I can start hanging sheet metal. We shall see.
Happy holidays to all.
|
12-12-2010, 10:49 AM
|
|
Senior Member
|
|
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 175
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
|
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tuske427
As I'm doing my car, I'm trying to fix one area at a time. This way, the rest of the car is still there to support and align things.
Because most of yours is apart, I recomment a lot of cleckos and sheet metal screws to temporarily put it back together before you weld everything up. The current and last month's issue of Car Craft covers a shop rebodying a 68 mustang coupe into a fast back. Many of the technical "how to" may be of help for you.
I hope this is helpful
Keep the pics coming!
|
I held mine together with screws so I could adjust if i needed. I used a laser level for ceilings to make sure my panels were all in the same plane as my rockers and then measured side to side and square then welded it up slowly with a bunch of tacks to start and then when it all fit just right I did the final welding. The laser showed me where to raise or lower the rear of the panels to keep them from sagging dowm wich they wanted to do naturally it seemed. The shape of the rear quarter even looked better when it was lifted in the rear to make the body line all the same.
I never used any bracing inside and the measurements never changed, I didn't use a rotisserie which definately requires bracing. When all of the gaps and lines look right it doesn't matter if the car shifted the way I see it, the car could have been off from the factory and cause you problems trying to line things up that will never be right till you shift the car.
I would replace that trunk pan if it was me, but if not you better get something on it like POR or something to stop it forever.
__________________
May the Horsepower Be With You !!!!
|
12-18-2010, 03:04 PM
|
|
Senior Member
|
|
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Northville, MI
Posts: 474
Thanks: 3
Thanked 11 Times in 10 Posts
|
|
Last business trip of the year is done! A new record for me though. 129k miles on Delta. Hopefully next year isn't quite so hectic.
Anyway, on to the car. I got the drip rails and roof test fitted. Just sheet metal screws for now as I wasn't sure how to position the drip rails. The drip rails seem to be in pretty much the right spot (driver side may need to slide forward just a touch). The passenger side roof corner at the A-pillar doesn't seem to fit too well. Maybe some trimming is in order? I can squeeze it down flush but it is TIGHT. Also, the roof to drip rail support on the driver side is a bit off it seems. I'm hoping that sliding it forward helps that and putting in a few more sheet metal screws to really hold everything in place.
I also threw one of my G8 summer wheels under there for some inspiration. Looks good!
|
12-30-2010, 06:35 PM
|
|
Senior Member
|
|
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Northville, MI
Posts: 474
Thanks: 3
Thanked 11 Times in 10 Posts
|
|
Adjusted the drip rails a bit and I'm pretty happy with the roof fitment. Also, first VERY ROUGH placement of drivers quarter. Still cleaning up around rear panel and filler panel before it will fit correctly and hopefully relatively easily.
I also ordered nearly everything else I need to put the back half of the car back together. After it's all installed, I'll probably pick up the rear suspension and install that before moving on to the floorpan / front end.
|
01-11-2011, 07:52 PM
|
|
Senior Member
|
|
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Northville, MI
Posts: 474
Thanks: 3
Thanked 11 Times in 10 Posts
|
|
Got a nice delivery from Classic Industries today. Inner Cowl, DSE Firewall Fill plate, outer wheelhouses, tail panel and brace, rear valence, full trunk panel and side panels. Nearly everything I need to have a complete shell from the firewall back. I feel like a Firebird parts warehouse!
Still need floorpan, Anvil trunklid, and dash panel to finish the shell. That will be ordered after the Speedtech rear suspension I'm planning to order late February timeframe. Trying to get as many parts around me as possible so that I'm never waiting on them. Now it just needs to warm up in my garage!
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
All times are GMT -5. The time now is 04:47 AM.
|