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  #11  
Old 11-27-2008, 12:23 AM
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Derek, if I can ever remember to get batteries for my camera I'll grab some pics,I'm still working on it a little as $$ allows, just have to insulate the ceiling. I've got the heat on but it's not where I would like it and I think it's just because it's not fully insulated yet. The walls with the footer and headers come out to 10'6".

Syborg to late I'm already a full fledged stalker over there too:lol
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  #12  
Old 11-27-2008, 09:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by caper150 View Post
Syborg to late I'm already a full fledged stalker over there too:lol

Not a good thing
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  #13  
Old 11-28-2008, 10:20 PM
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Heres a couple of pics
Finished outside


8X10 houses the floor water tank and such as well as compressor and electrical

probably one of the few 4 door pro-touring cars in the making


Derek heres a couple pics of the set up for floor heat.




As you can see in the pics I still need to finish up some insulationon the walls as well as the ceiling
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  #14  
Old 10-13-2009, 02:24 PM
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looks like your making some progress.did you run differnt zones or just on one zone?what did you use for a heater for the floor heat? boiler or water heater?
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  #15  
Old 10-13-2009, 10:58 PM
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Each line is one continous 250' loop that can be shut down individually. I have it hooked up to a water heater, last year there was no insulation in the ceiling so it do not work properly. This weekend I putting in R40 in the ceiling and turing on the heat to start warming up the slap. Hardest part is getting it up to temp, once it's at temp I'll know if the water heater was a good idea.

heres a couple of pics of how things look now.


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  #16  
Old 10-14-2009, 08:23 PM
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Nice work, you have a nice shop to work on your projects.I'm always over at Garagejournal. I go over there and drool over shops like yours.
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  #17  
Old 10-14-2009, 11:51 PM
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Darryl --

Without trying to write a book -- you're dealing with BTU's -- and it takes "X" amount to "heat" your shop... Your water heater is rated in BTU's... probably like 100,000 ?? Most slabs that are going to be heated - have foam insulation barrier - so your heat doesn't all get soaked up by the ground underneath. Do you know if you have a layer of this in your floor?

Is the heater electric or natural gas?? In the Pacific NW - our electric rate is pretty "cheap". I have a 30X50 Shop with 21' ceilings. I heat it with just leaving the fluorescent lights on. I have 12 - 8' long - double tube H.O. T12 bulbs. My electric bill runs about $300 a month in the winter. That includes all the other electric stuff going - compressor - welders etc.

Something that might help to get you up and running... try leaving all your shop lights on 24/7 -- Fluorescents actually put off some decent heat... if left on to help out they might add a heat level up high in the ceiling - which lets the heat from your floor not dissipate so quickly.

Once all your toolboxes and the cars get up to "temp" they'll also act like heat sinks - helping keep the shop toasty...

Just a thought is all.
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  #18  
Old 10-14-2009, 11:52 PM
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PS -- Your shop looks great! Congratulations!!!
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  #19  
Old 10-17-2009, 11:32 PM
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What a great looking shop! DROOL!!!!!!!
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  #20  
Old 10-18-2009, 10:47 AM
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Nice shop!!
Enjoy.
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