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  #11  
Old 03-02-2008, 05:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ProdigyCustoms
Another vote for glueing them in. If they would have had urethane in 1964, they would have glued them in. Clean the channel real well (I am sure you did), load the channel with urethane, press the glass into the channel and duck tape the channel to the glass until it sets. Try to catch the urethane at 70% hard with a razor to clean up the excess. Done!

that's great, but there's over .100" difference in the channel width and the glass. It would be very difficult to keep the glass centered in the track, and at the correct angle. I guess I could shim it with some of my neoprene sheeting.

Got to find another passenger window now, broke the one you sent me Frank.........
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  #12  
Old 03-02-2008, 06:04 PM
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Are you talking about the track at the bottom of the glass? If so 3m makes something called window channel bond , VERY strong stuff, made specifically for this very reason. we use it all the time. If this is what you need shoot me a pm and when I get to work tommorow I will get you a part number. The only downside is it requires a special gun. Looks like a double barrel caulk gun only smaller. If I remember the gun was very reasonable.
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  #13  
Old 03-02-2008, 06:11 PM
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Here is a little info:
http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/mediawe...6EVs6E666666--
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  #14  
Old 03-02-2008, 06:38 PM
Perry Mitchell Perry Mitchell is offline
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If your rubber cannels are too hard to reuse there is a product that I have used on my '57 Nomad vent windows. You lube it with oil and wrap it around the glass. Press it into the channel. The oil makes the material swell and creates a tight fit. I got the stuff at my local auto glass dealer a while back. I recall it being available in different thicknesses.
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  #15  
Old 03-02-2008, 07:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Perry Mitchell
If your rubber cannels are too hard to reuse there is a product that I have used on my '57 Nomad vent windows. You lube it with oil and wrap it around the glass. Press it into the channel. The oil makes the material swell and creates a tight fit. I got the stuff at my local auto glass dealer a while back. I recall it being available in different thicknesses.
yeah, I believe that........ I tried three different times with different things to get it to slide all the way in; oil was the last try, and after sitting for a half hour or so I went to pry the glass back out like I'd done twice before, and it wouldn't budge. Ended up breaking the glass by prying too hard.

Jody
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Ron Davis Radiators for their radiator and fan assembly.
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American Powertrain for their ProFit Magnum T56 kit
Currie Enterprises for their 9" Third Member
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McLeod Racing for their RXT street twin clutch
Ididit for their steering column
Holley for their EFI and engine parts
Lokar and Clayton Machine for their pedals and door and window handles
Morris Classic Concepts for their 3 point belts and side mirrors
Thermotec for their heat sleeve and sound deadening products
Restomod Air for their Tru Mod A/C kit
Mightymouse Solutions for their catch can
Magnaflow for their 3" exhaust system
Aeromotive for their dual Phantom fuel system
Vintage Air for their new Mid Mount LS front drive
Hydratech Braking for their hydroboost system
Borgeson for their stainless steering shaft and u joints
Eddie Motorsports for their hood and trunk hinges and misc parts
TMI Products for their seats, door panels, and dash pad
Rock Valley Antique Auto Parts for their stainless fuel tank
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  #16  
Old 03-02-2008, 07:05 PM
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Hi I'm no glass expert but if the rubber you have will stretch maybe you can cut the strip you need,stretch it legnth wise hold it with some flat lip vice grips at the ends . Then lube the glass, then tap the track on and let the clamps go. Maybe it will give you enough room to fit the glass. Just a thought.
Wayne
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  #17  
Old 03-02-2008, 07:41 PM
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thanks for the info guys, it helps a lot.

Jody
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SPECIAL THANKS TO:
Jacob Ehlers and Amsoil for the lubricants and degreasers for my 70 Chevelle project
Shannon at Modo Innovations for the cool billet DBW bracket
Roadster Shop for their Chevelle SPEC Chassis
Dakota Digital for their Chevelle HDX Gauge Package
Painless Performance for their wiring harness

Ron Davis Radiators for their radiator and fan assembly.
Baer Brakes for their front and rear brakes

Texas Speed and Performance for their 427 LS Stroker
American Powertrain for their ProFit Magnum T56 kit
Currie Enterprises for their 9" Third Member
Forgeline for their GF3 Wheels
McLeod Racing for their RXT street twin clutch
Ididit for their steering column
Holley for their EFI and engine parts
Lokar and Clayton Machine for their pedals and door and window handles
Morris Classic Concepts for their 3 point belts and side mirrors
Thermotec for their heat sleeve and sound deadening products
Restomod Air for their Tru Mod A/C kit
Mightymouse Solutions for their catch can
Magnaflow for their 3" exhaust system
Aeromotive for their dual Phantom fuel system
Vintage Air for their new Mid Mount LS front drive
Hydratech Braking for their hydroboost system
Borgeson for their stainless steering shaft and u joints
Eddie Motorsports for their hood and trunk hinges and misc parts
TMI Products for their seats, door panels, and dash pad
Rock Valley Antique Auto Parts for their stainless fuel tank
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  #18  
Old 03-03-2008, 07:26 AM
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Payton King Payton King is offline
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Default Hey jody

I glued mine in on my 69. There is plenty of adjustment on the window that you should not have a problem. Just make sure you have in correctly in the channel from front to back.
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  #19  
Old 03-03-2008, 10:11 AM
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rwhite692 rwhite692 is offline
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I did a set on a 65 many years ago, and "glued" them in with black 3M 5200, worked awesome.
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