Those of you who run a full frame under your 1st gen Camaro - Page 2 - Lateral-g Forums

ProdigyCustoms · #11 05-11-2009, 11:02 AM

We own both full frame and subframe cars, in convertibles to boot. if the subframe car is reinforced with a roll bar system, it is going to be plenty strong.

If I jack up EmptyNest (subrame) or Project Prodigy (full frame) the door gap will open a tiny bit on EmptyNest, but only a tiny bit. On Prodigy, no opening at all. Prodigy is amazingly stiff.

Is it worth the 1000 hours of extra work.................Hell No!

fxstdale · #12 05-11-2009, 11:19 AM

when I built mine I was considering the same Idea of a full frame option for my 68. I opted for the AME rear triangulated 4 bar clip which was .120 wall 2x4 rails, subframe conncectors are also .120 2x4 through floor style, with AME gt front clip and I tied it all togeather with a 8 point cage, so its going to be real stiff. I would have went with a full frame from AME if I would have needed floors. I could have bought the front and rear clips with sub frame connectors already welded in but for me the end result was the the same either way.

**fleetus macmullitz** · #13 05-11-2009, 11:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ProdigyCustoms

Is it worth the 1000 hours of extra work.................Hell No!

Seriously, a 1000 hours?!

Ouch...I had no idea.

Then again, you guys may have lives...

**fleetus macmullitz** · #14 05-11-2009, 11:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fxstdale

when I built mine I was considering the same Idea of a full frame option for my 68. I opted for the AME rear triangulated 4 bar clip which was .120 wall 2x4 rails, subframe conncectors are also .120 2x4 through floor style, with AME gt front clip and I tied it all togeather with a 8 point cage, so its going to be real stiff. I would have went with a full frame from AME if I would have needed floors. I could have bought the front and rear clips with sub frame connectors already welded in but for me the end result was the the same either way.

Thanks for the info, I appreciate it.

**Flash68** · #15 05-12-2009, 12:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WaterCooledNelds

Here's one of the threads Dave.

http://www.pro-touring.com/forum/showthread.php?t=55272

Thanks Skip. I'll take a look.

Quote:

Originally Posted by monza

TASTE

hey now! be nice!

**CraigMorrison** · #16 05-14-2009, 07:23 AM

1000 hours to install a full frame on unibody car? That would equate to about $65,000-$75,000 extra on a build. Are you sure about this number Frank? I have seen our dealers in the 80-200hr range but not this much. Not trying to call you out, but that number seems excessive.

Edit- Just spoke with Alloway on his latest MaxG build. He has a sheetmetal shop roll the trans tunnel and driveshaft tunnel for him and doing the whole floor is about 100hours or "two weeks". It can take longer depending on how much you get into the firewall. Bobby felt that it was easier to re-floor a car than fabbing patch panels to repair a stock floor. Then add 20-40Hrs on building body mounts and brackets to hold the body to frame and you are in the 150hr range.

**DOOM** · #17 05-14-2009, 07:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ProdigyCustoms

We own both full frame and subframe cars, in convertibles to boot. if the subframe car is reinforced with a roll bar system, it is going to be plenty strong.

If I jack up EmptyNest (subrame) or Project Prodigy (full frame) the door gap will open a tiny bit on EmptyNest, but only a tiny bit. On Prodigy, no opening at all. Prodigy is amazingly stiff.

Is it worth the 1000 hours of extra work.................Hell No!

Okay Frank , are you in that spray booth without a mask again!!!

Just messen with ya!!!

**fleetus macmullitz** · #18 05-14-2009, 08:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CraigMorrison

1000 hours to install a full frame on unibody car? That would equate to about $65,000-$75,000 extra on a build. Are you sure about this number Frank? I have seen our dealers in the 80-200hr range but not this much. Not trying to call you out, but that number seems excessive.

Edit- Just spoke with Alloway on his latest MaxG build. He has a sheetmetal shop roll the trans tunnel and driveshaft tunnel for him and doing the whole floor is about 100hours or "two weeks". It can take longer depending on how much you get into the firewall. Bobby felt that it was easier to re-floor a car than fabbing patch panels to repair a stock floor. Then add 20-40Hrs on building body mounts and brackets to hold the body to frame and you are in the 150hr range.

Thanks Craig, that is very helpful info.

comp-spec · #19 05-14-2009, 08:29 AM

Depending on how fancy you get with the metal work, All said and done 150-200 hrs for Max-G install.Then from there, the sky's limit.

Just my 2cents.

Blake Foster · #20 05-14-2009, 10:10 AM

[QUOTE=comp-spec;212351]Depending on how fancy you get with the metal work, All said and done 150-200 hrs for Max-G install.Then from there, the sky's limit.

the biggest issue we see is the seat height!! the seat base ends up being higher in the car due to the exhaust and like pete said how fancy you want to get???