8.1 Chevy Vortec Swap....

[69MyWay]

Next...I went ahead and modified the trans x member so we could take a section out. There is no way to get the six speed out of the car without pulling the motor unless the X member is modified. This can be done with the body on - we did Killer with the body on. However, with it off it is 1000 times easier. Basically, I marked the line - cut. I then made up FOUR plates and mated two of them at a time - drilled them through in the press. I then took the width of them and cut the frame off on each side by that width. I then slid the piece in place with the plates bolted...and welded it home.

[69MyWay]

Now for the good stuff. We have to have a constant 55 PSI or so of pressure to run the engine just like and LS1/2/3/6/7. I picked up a killer TRE 343 in-tank pump which is a 255 gal per hour. Mouting a wire through bushing through the top of the tank, and welding a bracket to the stock pickup - I was able to get the electric pump in the tank and plumbed in place. We added a vent line too that will go to an emission can so we can run a sealed gas cap and not have fumes in the garage.

We will have a 99-09 Corvette fuel filter/regulator mounted by the tank and then a stock line all the way to the engine.

[69MyWay]

Progress...and goodies.



Putting the head on using the torque to yield bolts.



These are the adjustable push rods. You can't run the engine with these. They are only used to determine the measurement for the custom push rods. These are non-adjustable rockers - therefore I have to make up the adjustment in the push rod.



These are the magnum roller tips. They will give me a tad more lift, less friction...AND they will fit under the valve cover.



On the inside - I mounted the new Vintage Air Sure fit system, then sought the perfect spot to run the wire harness. This spot drops the harness right over the back of the engine, and clears the goods on the HVAC.



And...the electronics will all be safely tucked away (thanks to the 4' longer harness) in the rear storage compartment.




Spent the rest of the day running the now 2 gauge (big thick puppy) battery cables, grounds, and other time consuming stuff.

Will set the new Painless chassis wire harness in and connect it to the Watson Hot Dot - push button starter.

Waiting on -

Push rods
Headers.

[70rs]

It's looking like you're in the home stretch now. Nice work. That really sucks that the head gaskets were toast. But now you know the top end will be solid. Do you have any pics of the cold air intake yet? I'd love to see how that is going to work out.
Keep it up, almost there!

I am really looking forward to seeing it on the dyno! Any chance of getting it on video for us to see?

[Wayne S]

This project is coming along well. That sucks about the head gaskets, but better you find out now than after everything is finished. Did you contact the seller of the engine?

One other thing about these engines is that they "use" oil. I've had to add 1-2 quarts in between oil changes ever since I've owned my Suburban (2500, 4x4, 8.1, 4.10's). Everyone that I know who has one says the same thing though, so I guess it's just an 8100 thing.

Keep up the good work. With that cam and aftermarket exhaust, you're probably looking at 425-450 hp and 500-525 ft lbs of torque. Hope you're ready for frequent tire replacement.

[69MyWay]

Originally Posted by 70rs

It's looking like you're in the home stretch now. Nice work. That really sucks that the head gaskets were toast. But now you know the top end will be solid. Do you have any pics of the cold air intake yet? I'd love to see how that is going to work out.
Keep it up, almost there!

I am really looking forward to seeing it on the dyno! Any chance of getting it on video for us to see?

Wayne S This project is coming along well. That sucks about the head gaskets, but better you find out now than after everything is finished. Did you contact the seller of the engine?

One other thing about these engines is that they "use" oil. I've had to add 1-2 quarts in between oil changes ever since I've owned my Suburban (2500, 4x4, 8.1, 4.10's). Everyone that I know who has one says the same thing though, so I guess it's just an 8100 thing.

Keep up the good work. With that cam and aftermarket exhaust, you're probably looking at 425-450 hp and 500-525 ft lbs of torque. Hope you're ready for frequent tire replacement.

Thanks guys. These set backs have just about taking the wind out of my sail...but we are marching forward now.

I did let the seller know- he claimed when I bought it that he bought it from a salvage yard and had no idea if it was good. So, he gets a get out of jail free card.

The push rods are coming now. I needed some that were 8.125 - but Comp doesn't make them that size. I had to get 8.150, and will shim the screw in studs on those valves to get the length back right.

We took video of the first raw start...but can't get it off the Sony camera onto the puter. We reloaded the software twice...but no go. Hope to have it fixed by dyno time. Yes...400 REAL hp and 500 REAL ft lbs of torque would be awesome. The whole plan here was do to "not another" LS swap - yet utilize all the benifits of the LS elenctronics.

Oil burn? I heard that too. This engine is actually a 2007 and came from a medium duty. One place I read said they resolved this issue with better rings/pistons on the newer ones. Time will tell.

Here is a pic of the cold air intake being built. What is tricky here, is I had to notch out the core support (man...I wish I had some of your guys welding and fabrication skills!)....and welded in a work-around.

[69MyWay]

First drive...and video.

Scroll to the bottom of this page to see the video.

http://mcspeed.homestead.com/Killer-II.html

Now...this is with open manifolds...and many loose ends...BUT - it runs and drives.

Now we are waiting on the hooker side pipe headers and will be able to do this right.

[70rs]

I tried loading the required quicktime program and I still can not watch the video. I would really like to see it running too. I have followed this from the start.