Brendon's '67 Firebird thread - Page 2 - Lateral-g Forums

Tuske427 · #11 04-19-2010, 01:48 AM

a few more pics...

**KPC67** · #12 04-19-2010, 09:46 AM

I personally would not bother with dipping my car.
If i were you I would just have is blasted (media, or sand) just don't hit the sheet metal that you plan on using.
Also sandblast as you take your car apart (when you take a quarter panel off)
just my .02

67rstbkt · #13 04-19-2010, 04:11 PM

Looking good; in the pictures, it looks like you're just dealing with surface rust. Have you tried a wire wheel? (At least on the underside).

Tuske427 · #14 04-20-2010, 01:56 AM

Thank you. The dipping process removed most of the rust, but it's still in the cracks and heard to reach areas. This is why I was disappointed with the dipping process. Being submersed in liquid, I'd think that it should reach to just about every area (except for metal that is pinched/ welded together)

However, I'll be replacing and modifying a lot of panels, so I should be able to get to any remaining areas not cleaned already.

I'll use a combination of methods to remove any remaining rust.

Tonight we measured my car, and tightened down the subframe based on the best frame/ body alignment we could calculate. This is so we can work on calculating the suspension and axle size. Of course, it'll come off again, and have to be re measured again....

I'll have to take a few days off as I need to prepare (clean) the house for guests coming later this week. I should get back on this Sat. I'll work on preliminary assembly of the front suspension, as well as building a mock up tire in cardboard (cheaper than buying the real tires at this time as I have extra cardboard and hot melt glue). Then I can work on calculating the max width for the axle that will fit in my car.

67rstbkt · #15 04-20-2010, 10:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tuske427

Thank you. The dipping process removed most of the rust, but it's still in the cracks and heard to reach areas. This is why I was disappointed with the dipping process. Being submersed in liquid, I'd think that it should reach to just about every area (except for metal that is pinched/ welded together)

However, I'll be replacing and modifying a lot of panels, so I should be able to get to any remaining areas not cleaned already.

I'll use a combination of methods to remove any remaining rust.

Tonight we measured my car, and tightened down the subframe based on the best frame/ body alignment we could calculate. This is so we can work on calculating the suspension and axle size. Of course, it'll come off again, and have to be re measured again....

I'll have to take a few days off as I need to prepare (clean) the house for guests coming later this week. I should get back on this Sat. I'll work on preliminary assembly of the front suspension, as well as building a mock up tire in cardboard (cheaper than buying the real tires at this time as I have extra cardboard and hot melt glue). Then I can work on calculating the max width for the axle that will fit in my car.

I'll be re-attaching my sub-frame this week. Any pointers on where to measure so that I know everything is square?

Thanks

Tuske427 · #16 04-21-2010, 03:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 67rstbkt

I'll be re-attaching my sub-frame this week. Any pointers on where to measure so that I know everything is square?

Thanks

We used a long bar in place of the rear axle (since my axle is out) and set that perpendicular to the car as a place holder. we also used string and ran it parallel along side the car, and used another bar across the front. from this we measured diagonally from corner to corner to get the axle lines square to one another.

I didn't want to assume the car , or the subframe was perfectly square from the factory. After all, they were hand assembled parts that are 40+ years old.

We also ran one of those pointer lasers (the kind with a wide fan beam) down the middle to establish the true center line of the car.
There are alignment holes for the subframe/ body, but again, I'm not entirely trusting it.

I'll try to post a pic tonight.

67rstbkt · #17 04-21-2010, 04:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tuske427

We used a long bar in place of the rear axle (since my axle is out) and set that perpendicular to the car as a place holder. we also used string and ran it parallel along side the car, and used another bar across the front. from this we measured diagonally from corner to corner to get the axle lines square to one another.

I didn't want to assume the car , or the subframe was perfectly square from the factory. After all, they were hand assembled parts that are 40+ years old.

We also ran one of those pointer lasers (the kind with a wide fan beam) down the middle to establish the true center line of the car.
There are alignment holes for the subframe/ body, but again, I'm not entirely trusting it.

I'll try to post a pic tonight.

Cool, thanks; pictures always help

Tuske427 · #18 04-22-2010, 01:59 AM

Not sure how well you can see this- but there are 2 bars going across the car. one in place of the rear axle. the other is pressed up against the DSE upper control arm mounts.

There are strings and plumb bobs and sharpie marks all over the car and bars.

67rstbkt · #19 04-22-2010, 10:27 AM

Thanks, I can work with that

Tuske427 · #20 04-26-2010, 12:19 AM

This weekend I had limited time to work on this, but I think I made some progress. I don't have the tires I want yet, but I do know the size and overall dimensions, so I mocked up a set in cardboard as place holders. I had plenty of cardboard leftover from my goodmark panel shipment, and this is light to move around.

I also started to install the front suspension for mocking up purposes. I understand that with the DSE suspension/ stock frame there is a wheel width limitation of 7". Although I mocked it up. I'm not exactly sure yet what the limiter is as I don't have my hubs or brakes yet (I can only guesstimate where the wheels will truly sit. ) If anyone has had any experience with this please chime in where the issues are so I can address them.

I also placed the back wheels in, and was happy to see it start to look like a paddle boat- I mean car again. Since I need to replace my quarters and mini tub the car- my neighbor had a good suggestion of widening the back body a bit. This will help maximize track width while keeping the tires inside the body. We mocked up a qtr panel and it looked good, but I apparently didn't get a pic of it, nor the car with the front body panels on.