Yes they were already on the car when I got it. Only one per side.
Those things are evil and they are likely what is causing your spring to bow and hit the frame. Normally if they are used you have to use two of them on opposite sides to keep the spring from bowing. Try removing them and see if it stops.
it sounds like Dhutton has it right
also the SB springs are likley too soft, it would depend on where the shinny spots are is the coil going into bind?? as in collapsing onto itself? or just rubbing onthe frame.
your idea to switch to that Speedtech stuff doesn't sound bad!!
it sounds like Dhutton has it right
also the SB springs are likley too soft, it would depend on where the shinny spots are is the coil going into bind?? as in collapsing onto itself? or just rubbing onthe frame.
your idea to switch to that Speedtech stuff doesn't sound bad!!
It is just rubbing from what I can tell. I like the speed tech option. I had always planned on changing all that stuff out. I might pull the spacers out and drive it around but I need to be carful as it will be sitting low on top of 19 inch Rushforths.
It is just rubbing from what I can tell. I like the speed tech option. I had always planned on changing all that stuff out. I might pull the spacers out and drive it around but I need to be carful as it will be sitting low on top of 19 inch Rushforths.
If you can't remove them add a second one to each spring to even things out. You can get them on ebay for $20.
Well I got them out and gave her a test ride today. Much better. I still feel some slight rubbing under harder turns but no where near what it was. But there is still something going on with that side. I think the spring could be bent or as previously discussed the LCA bushings being bad. I think the speed tech stuff will go a long way in improving everything.
But there is still something going on with that side. I think the spring could be bent or as previously discussed the LCA bushings being bad. I think the speed tech stuff will go a long way in improving everything.
Pretty hard to permanently bend a coil spring. Ive never seen or heard of it happening. They are some tough springs. I would go as far to say you could grab each end and bend the spring over 45* and it wont take a permanent set. But thats useless info cause its just a guess. Ummm, how bout a 90* bend? I think that might deform the spring some. Who knows. Maybe a lil test is in order. Id make the jig if I had a spring handy... JR
I agree. While it got better after driving it some more it is back but not a sever it seems. I am going to take a peek again today if I get the chance. That spring is still really close to the frame. I think some previous posters mention the spring moving from the top UCA or the bushings being bad in the lower, I would guess that either one of these or both combined would push the spring closer. The frame is rounded off in the spring pocket area and the spring obviously is rounded off. Now imagine the 2 rubbing. that what it feels and sounds like The spring has shiney spots as well. I think that is what is happening.
I had already gotten a contact number last weekend for a reputable guy to take it to. That issues scares the crap out of me but they all acted as if it were no big deal. My buddy had him on the phone and he said he had all the books or measurements for this car. My buddy said he can fix it once he sees where the issues are. Apparently they hang things on the car that helps line it up? Some of it may have gotten lost in the translation. This car is a former drag car which is the reason i had inquired to a friend and looking for someone to take it to.
Well I hope to get the car to the frame shop real soon. While following behind the car you can see the car tracking sideways slightly and can see the front right tire sticking out. The front right tire is where all my problem are. A bent frame makes the most sense and may explain why the outside spring is rubbing the frame. Also my left rear has a slight issue as it is very cloese to my tire. I know these sometimes came from the factory like this but if I get the frame straightened and since the front right is pushed out and left rear is the same will straightening the fram give me more clearance in the rear?
***UPDATE***
I just got off the phone and after explaining everything to the guy he seemed to agree that something seems to be going on with the frame but didn't want to speculate too much without looking at it first. He said an average repair is about 5 hrs @ 65 hr. so looking at 325 + 45 to check it out. Seems pretty reasonable barring any unforseen issues. I am challenged in the car repair world lol and I have always thought that once the frame was bent the car was dead but this guy and all of my friends acted like it was no big deal.
I asked the guy if he has ever had some that were too far gone and he was hesitant about answering the question but added that it just makes things more difficult. He said that fixing someone elses attempt to fix it would be difficult.
I asked him about the closeness to my left rear tire to the fender and he said that if I didn't get more clearance than there might be a chance of moving the body a bit especially if the car had already been off the frame before. I guess I will find out soon enough how bad it is. If I can get her all straight and ready to move forward for under 600 I would feel pretty good about it.
Lets say for augument sake the frame is trashed. Do I have some options? A donor frame. A new frame? The car is basically done so whatever needs to be done it will need to be done very carefully.
Last edited by 1960LesPaul; 06-01-2010 at 12:27 PM.
Brian Hobaugh SCCA National Tour June 2014
First Hemi 'Cuda Convertible Ever Built
Short clips: Goodguys Pleasanton autocross and pit videos
Ummm, how bout a 90* bend? I think that might deform the spring some. Who knows. Maybe a lil test is in order. Id make the jig if I had a spring handy... JR
Linear Mode
