The Hotchkis TVS kit is a no brainer IMHO! Pro-TouringF-Body also has an EXCELLENT budget setup that is great if you're looking to stick with leaf springs and stock control arms.
http://pro-touringf-body.com/ I'd highly recommend something along these lines if you can swing it! Nothing like a kit that's already been scienced out for you!
... if not... you can do a little at a time to get there on a budget... a PST front end rebuild kit to get that squared away... get some 550ppi front springs (HO Racing or Hotchis)... getting a 1 3/8" sway bar vs 1.25" = 36% more stiffness and then with some good tires (BFG KD) you're better than 90% of the OEM cars on the road. For that killer/low stance on a budget you'll have to cut your new springs and use a lowering block or get some dearched rear springs... New springs can lower your front 1-1.5" and stock sagged rear springs worked well on my car though... cutting stock springs that low is just asking for trouble IMHO!
The actual/intended usage of the car will dictate the suspension settings...for "hot street" 1/2 deg neg camber and 4-6 deg pos caster with 1/16" toe in will get you the feel you want.
For brakes, you can get it to stop in 130-140 ft for $400... but if want under 120 ft stops it will take some bucks! Swap on a set of 12" B-Body brakes from the bone yard, install an adjustable proportioning valve, get a set of more agressive pads from Wilwood or Brute Stops from Raybestos.
The 12" brake upgrade is an easy and inexpensive swap using factory components but it's not 13+ rotors with sexy calipers ...
Checkout
www.scarebird.com for rear disc brake options or swap in a WS6 complete rear with discs... or the 4th gen stuff as Brett has already mentioned.
Budget shocks = Classic Red Konis will ride better AND corner better than KYBs but only by a little...
Budget option #1 for second gen 1 1/4" front bar front springs 700-740 lb/in
(1985 diesel S-10s drop in), stock rear springs and a 5/8" rear bar. Bigger rear bar will pick up the inside rear wheel on a tight hard turn or a really angled driveway. Bilsteins or Konis all around. Solid bushings.
Budget option #2 540-560 ppi front spring with 1-3/8" front sway bar and a 7/8" rear bar which IS too big for road race but OK for slalom/autocross as it makes it easier to get around the cones(power induced oversteer). The combo of the 1-3/8" front bar and 560ppi springs will give a better road ride than the 770s with about the same combined roll stiffness. On a high speed road course, the 770s would probably be better. Solid or Poly bushings all around and you can take some bite out of the rear bar by using rubber mounts. Put in as much pos caster as feasable... 3-3.5 is pretty good without modifying the upper control arm.
HTH
V/R,
Ty
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Ty Ingle, USAF Retired
FREEDOMBIRD
Hoodpins.com, Inland Empire Driveline, Billet Accessories Direct, Modo Innovations, AutoRad Radiators, Morris Classic Concepts, Marquez Design, Anvil Auto, Fesler Billet, US Collision (DOOM), AGR, Pro-touringF-body.com, Phoenix Transmission Products, Shiftworks, ACC Carpet, Hedman Hedders, BMR Fabrication, American Autowire, MityMounts, TIN INDIAN Performance, Kauffman Racing Equipment, Pypes, RobbMc Performance, WMC, Holley, NOS, PST
Brian Hobaugh SCCA National Tour June 2014
First Hemi 'Cuda Convertible Ever Built
Short clips: Goodguys Pleasanton autocross and pit videos
... not sure if their ready yet though.
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