Fuel pump wont turn on any ideas/ecu controlled? - Page 2 - Lateral-g Forums

**waynieZ** · #11 05-01-2011, 09:34 PM

Greg Thanks for that information. I didn't know that. Oh boy this is going to be fun when I have to do it.... One disaster averted!

**GregWeld** · #12 05-01-2011, 10:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by waynieZ

Greg Thanks for that information. I didn't know that. Oh boy this is going to be fun when I have to do it.... One disaster overted!

Once you start messing with with electronics -- you've got to raise your game. Can't be poking around putting voltage where it don't belong.

**GregWeld** · #13 05-03-2011, 06:59 PM

Welllllllllllllllll............ we're waiting...........

67ragtp · #14 05-04-2011, 04:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GregWeld

Welllllllllllllllll............ we're waiting...........

Sorry to keep you waiting, I decided to buy some steel fittings instead of the aluminum ones that were leaking. Just got delivered today. Didn't want to fire up the pump until it was plumbed tight enough to troubleshoot.

As you know the pump ran beautiful when jumped right off the battery. So while waiting for the fittings to show up my son and I decided to buz the system, get out my fluke 83 and we yank the relay out of the connector put a couple test leads on terminal 85 and 86 energize the coil with the 12v off the battery and listen to the contacts make and break. We measured .1 ohms across the high current taps (30/87). Relay good. Got out some long lengths of 12 guage wire and measure the resistance of all the wires traveling back to the pump through the relay connector and its all .1 to .2 ohms. Then Im thinking maybe the 20 amp key on feed to supply the pump has some high resistance, I pulled this power from the accessory connector on the AAW classic update harness, they use a 6 position connector with big 10/12 guage wires going into it to feed a fuel pump, electric windows, power seats etc. so I used a 20 amp key on feed to supply the Pink wire on the speartech harness which ultimately feeds the relay for power to the pump. I disconnect the accessory connector and we measure it to the relay housing and its all .1 ohms and reseat the connector. Can not find any bad connections and the pump ground goes to the negitive side of the battery as well as the chassis.

Today I install the fitting get my jumper wire out and power up the pump to pressurize the system, no leaks. I cut in to the positive wire to use the jumper so I had to reconnect it to the feed wire coming from the relay, did that and tried it again, turned the key to run position and the pump fired up and ran for the 3 seconds. tuned it off and cycled it again, 4 times it works perfect. NOW FOR THE 86million, WHY?

Was the pump stuck?
Relay measured 12.3 at the pump when it didnt run.
Feed acessory connector reseated?

Well what da ya think?

Thanks Rich

**GregWeld** · #15 05-04-2011, 05:52 PM

All

's

Could have just been a connection that looked connected and wasn't.... I don't think the pumps get 'stuck'... but who knows. Just chalk it up and forget it.

So glad that it worked out though!

**waynieZ** · #16 05-04-2011, 10:51 PM

OK so when do we get to hear it run???? and just to let you know I would still be scratchin my head

67ragtp · #17 05-05-2011, 07:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by waynieZ

OK so when do we get to hear it run???? and just to let you know I would still be scratchin my head

Hopefully tomorrow or Sat., I have to make some room to get the car out or hook up some long exhaust vents. Gonna smoke out the house with this rediculious setup I have got myself in to.

Yeah I hear ya regarding the head scratching, in the world of hardware,firmware, software and electrons strange things happen when connectors aren't seated perfect or a bad connection occurs. The relay and the accessory feed connector are the only two mechanical connections I reseated, seems to be working good.

Ill keep you guys posted when it fires up.

Thanks again Rich