Hydraulic TO Bearing and clutch pedal travel Help... - Page 2 - Lateral-g Forums

Fluid Power · #11 10-19-2011, 09:31 AM

2 things happened.

Overstroked, causing the fluid to push past the o ring -or- the o ring was damaged on installation when putting it on the input shaft. Either way, call RAM, talk to tech and send it them. They will inspect and rebuild for you. Trust me, it is a ton easier to have RAM do it than do it yourself.

I cannot find my cheat sheets for my install. I must have put them away so i would not loose them and lost them. I will keep digging.

Good Luck. I do have extra shims if you need them however.

Darren

**andrewb70** · #12 10-19-2011, 01:02 PM

It is hard to imagine how the bearing could have been over-traveled when it has the big clip in place to prevent this from happening. Here is a picture of my Quarter Master bearing:

The design is very similar to the Ram but without the travel stop ring.

Tom, did you press off the actual bearing or was it on there kind of loose?

Andrew

Tom.A · #13 10-19-2011, 10:57 PM

Darren, thanks for the offer on the shims but Ram says my new bearing will come with both sizes. I plan to send the old bearing to them to rebuild for a spare. I don't expect that they can confirm why it failed. I believe that it could be something with alignment or damaged while installing the gear box. I have had the trans on /off several times and it normally is a wrestling match.

Andrew,
The Ram bearing face just pushes on and off with little effort but it slides over the outer shoulder as shown in picture below. I thought they were all like that?

Fluid Power · #14 10-21-2011, 11:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by andrewb70

It is hard to imagine how the bearing could have been over-traveled when it has the big clip in place to prevent this from happening. Here is a picture of my Quarter Master bearing:

The design is very similar to the Ram but without the travel stop ring.

Tom, did you press off the actual bearing or was it on there kind of loose?

Andrew

Andrew, What I meant to say was that if he was not using a pedal stop, the travel on the master cylinder allowed the RB to reach the end of its stroke. (held in place by the snap ring) Since the fluid doesn't compress, it continues to flow through the RB and out around (and damaging) the O ring in the process.

Darren

Tom,

My experience with RAM is they are all like that. The bearing comes off really easy.

**andrewb70** · #15 10-21-2011, 02:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fluid Power

Andrew, What I meant to say was that if he was not using a pedal stop, the travel on the master cylinder allowed the RB to reach the end of its stroke. (held in place by the snap ring) Since the fluid doesn't compress, it continues to flow through the RB and out around (and damaging) the O ring in the process.

Darren

Tom,

My experience with RAM is they are all like that. The bearing comes off really easy.

Darren,

I understand now. So it seems that the travel limiting ring is there for a falls sense of security. Sure the bearing can't come apart, but the seal will blow anyway. LOL. For this reason it is always a good idea to have an adjustable pedal stop.

As for the bearing, my Quarter Master bearing has a light press fit on the housing. It will not just slide off.

Andrew

sik68 · #16 10-21-2011, 03:13 PM

Hey Tom,

What clutch are you using? Centerforce by chance with the centrifugal weights?

Steven

Tom.A · #17 10-21-2011, 11:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sik68

Hey Tom,

What clutch are you using? Centerforce by chance with the centrifugal weights?

Steven

Hi Steven,

It is a Mcleod series 100. I got my new HD bearing in UPS Today so I hope to be back on the road soon if I get time this weekend.

Fluid Power · #18 10-22-2011, 05:37 AM

Tom,

Keep us posted. I think you are on the right track as far as using the shims and tightening up the gap.

In my install, RAM recommended installing the RB, bleeding it, and then measuring the potential travel of the RB. This will ensure that you will not over stroke the unit. (maybe you already did this?) This factors into the number and size of shims needed.

It sucks to install it, bleed it, and then install the transmission and line all of that up. I had a friend help me so it was a little more tolerable.

Let me know if you need any more help. If you are unsure of your measurements, wait and talk to RAM, or post them up. I will scour the shop for my notes.

Darren

Fluid Power · #19 10-22-2011, 05:38 AM

Tom,

Keep us posted. I think you are on the right track as far as using the shims and tightening up the gap.

In my install, RAM recommended installing the RB, bleeding it, and then measuring the potential travel of the RB by pushing in the clutch. If I remember, the travel of the RB has to be less than .5". This will ensure that you will not over stroke the unit. (maybe you already did this?) This factors into the number and size of shims needed.

It sucks to install it, bleed it, and then install the transmission and line all of that up. I had a friend help me so it was a little more tolerable.

Let me know if you need any more help. If you are unsure of your measurements, wait and talk to RAM, or post them up. I will scour the shop for my notes.

Darren