anybody use a Miller Multimatic 200?

[byndbad914]

Originally Posted by con_fuse9

MIG welder that is.

Big advantage for me is its a 110 welder when it needs to be and at least to 1/8 and even some 3/16". At the limits it seems to 'turn itself down' So if you are welding at 3/16 and turn the settings to 1/4" you aren't going to get more umph. But you shouldn't be doing 1/4" on 110V anyway (or IMHO 3/16).

The welder is super smooth welder. Ask anyone about welding with Miller's Passport. Same thing with the 200, just a bit more power, lighter weight but no internal CO2 bottle.

On 220 it welds exactly the same on the lower settings. You cannot tell the difference. Duty cycle is slightly higher on 220. Of course on thicker settings its much better.

sounds like I would MIG small stuff on 110V and then thicker on 220V which is what I expected. Good to hear it MIGs well - have you used a spool gun and MIG'd aluminum at all?

The gun is really nice as well. Tough to get parts for it (have to order tips and nozzles - the Q gun is typically for bigger welders -everyone stocks .035 tips, but nothing smaller and the size of this gun is smaller than the full size 300 amp version.) Bottom line, for now mail order the parts.

that is a bit of a bummer - I like the thought of just going to Home Depot for tips like I do with my friend's Lincoln... will keep that in mind.

As for TIG, its an emergency TIG - it has gas valves, you can use foot pedal, buy no high frequency start (none of the 'all in one' machines seem to have this) but again, it will do it off 110V. More importantly it will stick at 110.

how do you start it then, scratch it?

I am hoping Miller has one to try out at SEMA this year and am waiting until then before I buy anything.

[con_fuse9]

As for using the spool gun. I have a bigger MIG with a spool gun. So no.

As for lift arc TIG. Rather than buying the 'TIG kit', I was going to use my full size TIG equipment. They sell an adapter for the foot pedal and I already have everything else. However, the DINSE (I think that's what they are called) connectors are a smaller size than the full size TIGs (even my little Maxstar). So I have not TIG'd with it.

As for getting parts. I bought a spool of wire from Home Depot (note, not all home Depots even carry welding supplies!!! - check online first). I took the welder to a Boyscout welding merit badge/camp and we were welding for about 5 hrs. This was in a shop with limited electrical power - a Hobart handler 175 on 220V and my multimatic on 110V. Welding about .100 thick plate (bigger than 10 gauge, smaller than 1/8"). A little bit of nozzle spray and even with all the kids using it (very very close supervision) the nozzle looks almost perfect. By the end of the day, I think I made a sale to the owner of the Hobart - he just marveled at how smooth it welded. We did switch it to 220 just to try it out.

As for stick welding. The nice thing about stick is that it doesn't mater how thick the steel is on the parent, you set the welder based on the stick you use (and do multiple passes on big things). However, I had a little stick welder and I did projects like a rusted utility trailer and that quite frankly that is what convinced me to get a portable MIG. On really ugly projects, with poor fitup, MIGs are a lot easier.

As for Home Depot welders in general (and true about most 110V), there just isn't enough power in these little welders to safely weld structural stuff on things like trailers. I recently helped my neighbor fix a boat trailer that someone put together (at least partly) with a 110V welder. We removed many of the tabs welded on with a hammer - just snapped right off. I would leave the 110V for sheet metal. Probably OK for a unibody car.
For automotive/light truck frames I would say a 200Amp class MIG is a must. If you are dealing with trailers, make it a 250 class.

BTW, Miller came by my local welding supply store and I tried the welder there. First, their demo guys were really knowledgeable. After a quick speil about the welder they handed me a hood and some gloves and let me try it. I was immediately convinced. Switched to 110V and tried it again. Welded exactly the same on 110 and 220. Went inside and asked about 'show prices' and the gave me 25% off list (about $1800). That was close enough to on-line pricing (yes I had to pay sales tax). After the demo I was sold.

I warn you now, if you have a chance to use one, the price will become a non-issue (well until the credit card bill comes in). Don't let you wife see it. The free welding table is a bit harder to hide.

Full disclosure - I'm a hobby welder. Not a pro. I have owned Miller 251 (great welder IMHO) and currently have a Miller 350P (bought/stolen at auction - no I didn't pay full price) in addition to the 200. To me Miller has always been 100% reliable with excellent customer support and haven't had the need to experiment with anything else. I do my work on weekends and evenings and my tools have to work the first time, every-time, or I'm stuck waiting at least 24hrs to 'try again'.
That beings said, Lincoln, and Hobart all make quality stuff (much of it in the USA - probably not the Home Depot stuff). HTP has a pretty good rep. Check online for pricing. Rumor about extended 'father's day prices' for HTP. ESAB makes some light weight stuff as well. I think only Miller has the 110V and 220V capability.

[byndbad914]

thanks for all the input on the 200! A friend has HTP stuff and really likes it as well. Miller has always been known as good stuff, the chassis shop that welded up my current car used only Miller stuff. As for Home Depot, I just meant I go to my local HD to buy tips and wire spools when borrowing my friends' stuff; I would never buy one of their welders. You mentioned this took special tips that you have to mail order is all I was getting at in terms of convenience and HD

I will be MIG'ing up a new chassis for a new project and I have 220 wired in my garage so I intend to just use 220 for all of that. Small gauge stuff will switch to 110 based on your input. I intend to get the spool gun for alum MIG and also get the TIG kit for thin gauge or stainless stuff. The chassis pretty much has to be MIG'd DOM to be legal in any race class I want to run in and TIG'ing a chassis is a total PITA anyway

I too am a hobbyist user so I appreciate your feedback!

[byndbad914]

BTW, quick update in case anyone stumbles here searching on the 200 like I was.

I did end up trying one of these as SEMA and bought one, just received it last Friday. Spent some time burning metal with the MIG on Sunday and can say this machine is really slick. Can pretty much use the autoset function and not even tweak it. Have hardly used it so can't say 100% it is a great buy, but for the money I am already pretty impressed. Haven't TIG'd yet but did at SEMA and while the lift start will take a little getting used to, it did a great job at the show with 1/8" steel I was welding and nearly everything I will do will be .095 or 11 gauge.

Freakin' nuts that it is only ~40 lbs with a 10 lb spool of wire in it.