Manual T56 Troubles

[Cole]

Originally Posted by Mkelcy

Man, this is like pulling teeth.

Have you installed the clutch, flywheel, Z bar, linkage, pedals, adjusted everything, fired the engine and determined that there's an issue - i.e., that you can't disengage the clutch and/or get a good clutch pedal release point with things as they are now?

It also looks like the transmission is clocked, as if you had an adapter plate intended for a third gen or have the transmission mounted in the wrong set of holes in the adpater.

Finally, have you checked driveline angles. There appears to be a LOT of room in your transmission tunnel.

Thanks for you help but I think we are on a different page.

Originally Posted by MarkM66

Go hydraulic.

Doing it!

Originally Posted by Sieg

Negative as in footwell clearance for throttle function.

FWIW - Here's my '69 SBC w/ T-56 Mag.


W/ Moroso solid motor mounts.

I did a fair amount of massaging of the firewall to clearance the QT bellhousing.

Is this a hydraulic setup. Thank you for your help. Appreciate the pictures..

[Vegas69]

This is a common problem when you use a clutch fork that is the HIGH STRENGTH version.(Something to that effect) A stock fork is the only one that works and will be plenty as I use it.

#2 If you changed the relationship of the throw out bearing by using an adapter, that could also be your problem.

[Sieg]

Originally Posted by Cole

Is this a hydraulic setup. Thank you for your help. Appreciate the pictures..

It's manual with a McLeod adjustable throwout. I've been very satisfied with feel and modulation. My concern with hydraulic is the car may not get driven for 4-5 months during the Oregon winters and I've heard enough about leaking slaves associated with lack of use that I opted for old school.

[69Pressurized]

As previously stated by Vegas69,the problem is your clutck fork. We have run into this problem many times over the years in lots of installs. The clutch fork you are looking for is GM part# 03892632. That is what we always use and have had success every time. Hope this information helps.

[Cole]

Originally Posted by Vegas69

This is a common problem when you use a clutch fork that is the HIGH STRENGTH version.(Something to that effect) A stock fork is the only one that works and will be plenty as I use it.

#2 If you changed the relationship of the throw out bearing by using an adapter, that could also be your problem.

Thanks Todd.

Originally Posted by Sieg

It's manual with a McLeod adjustable throwout. I've been very satisfied with feel and modulation. My concern with hydraulic is the car may not get driven for 4-5 months during the Oregon winters and I've heard enough about leaking slaves associated with lack of use that I opted for old school.

Appreciate your photos, they have been a great help.

Originally Posted by 69Pressurized

As previously stated by Vegas69,the problem is your clutck fork. We have run into this problem many times over the years in lots of installs. The clutch fork you are looking for is GM part# 03892632. That is what we always use and have had success every time. Hope this information helps.

Thank you for the part #.

[Tweaked Zed]

And be sure to set up the clutch pivot properly, if it is adjustable. Measurement from block to pivot ball should be 4.75" according to my instructions. The measurement worked perfect for me.

[Cole]

Too funny.... I was talking with Vegas 69 the other day. He made the same mention and we have been looking into it the last couple days. I'll keep ya posted.

[Cole]

Originally Posted by Tweaked Zed

And be sure to set up the clutch pivot properly, if it is adjustable. Measurement from block to pivot ball should be 4.75" according to my instructions. The measurement worked perfect for me.

Thanks gentleman both you and Todd nailed. Josh @ JEP installed the longer pivot ball and it seems good to go.


Gracias

[Ron in SoCal]

About time

[Sieg]

Good news!