Let talk trailers!

[OVRKILL]

Like I was taught in the military...you travel light, you travel right. GO ALUMINUM! I'm pulling a 25' v-nose behind my 2012 1/2 ton. Walls, floor and ceiling are 16" centers, 3500lb axles (each), brakes, etc......2700lbs total. 3500lb car and I'm well within my 10,000lb capacity of my little 5.3.

[EBMC]

Originally Posted by OVRKILL

Like I was taught in the military...you travel light, you travel right. GO ALUMINUM! I'm pulling a 25' v-nose behind my 2012 1/2 ton. Walls, floor and ceiling are 16" centers, 3500lb axles (each), brakes, etc......2700lbs total. 3500lb car and I'm well within my 10,000lb capacity of my little 5.3.

What brand trailer is that?

[71RS/SS396]

Originally Posted by John510

I have a 2007 Chevy Avalanche

My personal opinion is that you really should have at least a 2500 truck to pull an enclosed trailer. I tow a lot since I travel all over the country going to events, I've probably towed my trailer 100K miles since 2007 and there's been occasions I wished I had a dually, a 1500 might be fine on flat ground for short trips but throw in mountains, high winds, crappy roads and you'll wish you had the heavier duty truck. My experience has also been that the trailer companies give you inaccurate weights on the trailer and they weigh more than they state, I was told that my aluminum enclosed weighed 3,500#'s and when I weighed it it actually weighs 5,600#'s.

Trailer recommendations:

24 ft v-nose is the perfect size for a car and extra gear/equipment

Get at least 5,000/5,500# axles, the brakes/hubs are bigger and you'll have less trouble over the long run.

Imho a winch is invaluable, you can use it for loading and unloading your car and loading cars that don't run.

A generator is also very handy have.

I found the drivers side door to not be all that helpful since the issue is usually the car door hitting trailer fender well that causes the problem getting out of the car. I use my winch to load my car so I don't have to be a contortionist to get out the car once it's loaded.

The storage cabinets that typically come with the trailers are not the most efficient to use, they are basically an open cavity with a door on the front, no shelves, no draws, so everything ends up in a pile inside, my next trailer I'm buying it empty inside and buying moduline cabinets that fit my needs.

[Streetking]

I have 3 trailers. A 20ft flatbed, 22ft all aluminum Trailex and a 28ft Cargo Craft. The flatbed is great, easy to load quickly, strapping the car down easily ect. The 28ft Cargo Craft is perfect for my race car, plenty of room for car, extra wheels, tools and pit bike. My favorite trailer is the Trailex. It's small, very light and very easy to load. It doubles as a place to sit and watch with plenty of ventilation if your at a car show or race. Since it's so light, you can pull it with a small SUV with ease. Just make sure you have enough truck to pull the trailer you choose.

[DOOM]

Aluminum all the way! I have a 36 foot Legend that we use for snowmobiling and our cars . I had same trailer in steel it was like pulling a barge!

[GregWeld]

Anything less than 65' just won't be...... Okay just kidding.



A couple things to think about "in general" about a trailer.

Where you live and how nice your car is determines open or enclosed. In the NorthWET we need enclosed trailers.

Aluminum costs more - but you will probably either need an aluminum trailer or a new truck -- your choice.

Just because a truck is "rated" to pull "X" weight -- doesn't mean it will do so "well". Again -- depending on where you live. Hills and mountains need a truck with some grunt... FLATLANDERS can pull with a Volkswagon.

FANCY INTERIORS are a big money maker for the dealer - and a giant waste of money for the buyer. IT'S A TRAILER -- you load it -- close it up and park it. The car is the fancy part. So unless you just have to have a trailer with all the bells and whistles (they're nice - don't get me wrong - it's the way I buy stuff - but it IS NOT cost effective).

Side exit doors are fantastic.... the bigger the better IMHO (48")


24' foot for an ENCLOSED trailer ---- because with a trailer (enclosed) you want to take "stuff". So that gives you room for a rolling type toolbox to be bolted in -- or some cabinets for "stuff"... etc. Again - this depends on how you intend to use the trailer. I take longer trips - so want tools - tires - clothes - rags - spare stuff I will never need as long as I have the spare stuff.


A WINCH IS A MUST OWN ITEM for a trailer. Period. Car breaks -- winch it on -- a buddies car breaks - winch it on... loading and unloading the car -- WINCH IT ON AND OFF.... if you do that - then you don't really need an exit door... but they're nice to have. MAKE THE WINCH 'wireless remote control'..... that way you can steer the car from the bottom of the ramp and get 'er all lined up etc.


Trailers hold their value pretty well -- if they're taken care of. So buying a used one isn't a huge money saver - but there is no shortage of trailers - what there is is a huge difference in brand to brand and what you CAN spend on one. Super cheap poorly made and super expensive deluxe everything. It's your wallet. The cheap junk seems to get to the show just about the same as I do. Depends on how much you plan to use it. It's a value judgement and use issue.

[DOOM]

Greg I think post#2 was for you.

[Vegas69]

I pulled a 24' Haulmark enclosed with my Tundra which is supposed to be a 1500. Pulled it great up and down the large grades between here and Southern CA even in the Summer. Temp gauges never moved. You will need a brake controller.

I don't see the point of an open trailer unless you are going to local events. If you're not racing, you should be driving. Otherwise you need the weather break and security.

[GregWeld]

If you buy one with some cabinetry -- make sure they're DRAWERS.... And I personally found almost nothing useful with the overhead cabinets. Not much fit up there... The drawers held all manor of stuff.

I carried a very tiny air compressor -

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/THO...130829142210:s

because my 2000 watt Honda would not start the "pancake style" (the type framers use for nail guns) version I have... the start load was just too much for it. LIGHT IS THE NAME OF THE GAME HERE... you're having to carry and store this stuff.


The light little Honda 2000 was/is a gem. I can make a pot of coffee -- charge a battery operated tool - run a battery charger -- lights - etc. Used it all the time.

Speaking of lights --- you see trailers with the big built in Halogen lights on the sides... in 15 years I used mine ONCE! Seriously... they're never where you need them - unless you're a professional race team in the pits... Portable lighting (great flashlight) is far more useful. Or use the little Honda to fire up a drop light.


Go to PITPAL PRODUCTS.... and deck out your trailer with strap hangers - jack storage - and anything else that needs to be stored. I love this stuff!


http://www.pitpal.com


These folks CALL YOU AFTER THE SHIPMENT TO SEE IF YOU GOT EVERYTHING AND THAT EVERYTHING IS ALL RIGHT! Amazing.


And go to and watch the videos of how to do things right at at Mac's Custom Tie Downs!



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=btRW...layer_embedded



I buy all my tie down stuff from them -- great products -- and the videos of how not to do things are most helpful.


http://www.macscustomtiedowns.com

[GregWeld]

Originally Posted by DOOM

Greg I think post#2 was for you.

Oh I got that..... but we had fun didn't we!?!?