Engine bay paint

[SSLance]

Quite a few pics of my work on it here...

http://www.montecarloss.com/communit...1019916&page=4

[GregWeld]

#1 rule ---- NEVER scuff anything before it's been cleaned and decreased. The reason for that is because if you scuff first - you push the grease and dirt and wax etc into the scuff groves (for lack of a better description).


Simple Green is good for a first couple rounds of cleaning....


Then I use PPG DX 330 - which is a wax and degreaser... When it's SQUEAKY clean (yeah you can actually get it to squeak)... then you scuff.


Make sure you test a spot with your paint of choice -- you'd be surprised at some of the bad reactions you can get. No point in finding that out after you've shot the whole area.

[Rick Dorion]

As said, the prep is key. I did an engine compartment in Rustoleum satin, #7777 I think, and it came out fantastic. Only downside is that it is an enamel and takes several days to fully harden. Now I'm in the SEM camp,. Did my inside floors and roof on the Bel Air. Awesome product.

[69hugger]

Originally Posted by GregWeld

#1 rule ---- NEVER scuff anything before it's been cleaned and decreased. The reason for that is because if you scuff first - you push the grease and dirt and wax etc into the scuff groves (for lack of a better description).


Simple Green is good for a first couple rounds of cleaning....


Then I use PPG DX 330 - which is a wax and degreaser... When it's SQUEAKY clean (yeah you can actually get it to squeak)... then you scuff.


Make sure you test a spot with your paint of choice -- you'd be surprised at some of the bad reactions you can get. No point in finding that out after you've shot the whole area.

Really good advice. I painted my tail light panel in matte black (finally used SEM trim black as Charlie suggested), and tested 7 different matte/ satin/ semi-gloss brands to get the sheen I thought was right. After sanding & scuffing for hours, the paint curdled (for lack of a better term) in a couple areas. I re-sanded those areas, cleaned with adhesive remover, followed by IPA, and re-shot. Curdled AGAIN, but in smaller areas. Went through this 4-5 times. Finally tried another primer (was using Krylon), and that worked. There was an incompatibility between the Krylon & the SEM.
Wish I had tried it on a piece w/o all the details that I had to sand time after time.
This was the sheen the SEM provided...

[clill]

Did the SEM curdle ? I'm pretty lazy and have never done more than maybe wipe clean with windex usually or lacquer thinner on bare metal and just sprayed it and never had a problem. When working on stuff I get very impatient and hate to wait for paint to dry. The SEM dries before I run out of patience otherwise I would have fingerprints etc in the slow drying paint because I just gotta move on to the next thing I wanna get done. The SEM also seems to hide imperfections very well.

[GregWeld]

Originally Posted by clill

Did the SEM curdle ? I'm pretty lazy and have never done more than maybe wipe clean with windex usually or lacquer thinner on bare metal and just sprayed it and never had a problem. When working on stuff I get very impatient and hate to wait for paint to dry. The SEM dries before I run out of patience otherwise I would have fingerprints etc in the slow drying paint because I just gotta move on to the next thing I wanna get done. The SEM also seems to hide imperfections very well.

No.... say it's not true!! LOL



SEM is great paint - usually found at pro stores.

[jeff71]

I've already started the 1st round of degreasing & pressure washing 44yrs of grime is not going away easy.

[GregWeld]

While I'm adding to my post count....


Plan on removing - cleaning - and repainting ANYTHING that is remotely next to or bolted on to the area you're going to put fresh paint on!! I will guarantee that what looks to be "okay" now - won't - once you've put fresh paint on. Take the opportunity to just go ahead and "do it" while you're at it.


Oh yeah -------- that's how these projects get started.... LOL

[69hugger]

The SEM DID curdle. But it was not the SEM's fault. It was the #$@*^ Krylon primers' fault. These flipping aerosol paints are NOT the same as they used to be. I used Krylon satin black for many years, and like Mr. Lillard professes to be, am lazy as far as prepping and can't wait for the stuff to dry. I have finger prints in most everything I have ever repainted. Except the OLD Krylon, which was dry in 15 minutes.... 5 in the sun! And it was almost impossible to make it run. The new stuff runs if you even think about more than a dry coat. They claim they haven't reformulated, but many others say all the manufacturers did several years ago because of VOC regs.
I just spent 5 hours touching up my engine bay before my rebuilt motor goes back in. Was trying to match the catalyzed epoxy that is on it. Found semi-flat Krylon to be the closest sheen match. Actually went on pretty good.

[TheJDMan]

Originally Posted by jeff71

No John Deere in my area that I know of. Anybody use SEM or EastWood?

I was gonna degrease, pressure wash with soapy water, scuff then expoy primer before paint.

Do yourself a favor, look up a Deere dealer in your area and buy the Blitz Black. It will be worth your time I guarantee it. The Blitz Black is the most durable paint you will find in an spray can. I worked a Deere dealer for many years and I can tell you straight up Blitz Black is a very durable paint. We sold more Blitz Black to hot rodders than we did to farmers. It dries quickly and gets harder as it cures.