filling weld pin holes - Page 2 - Lateral-g Forums

MeanMike · #11 03-15-2015, 11:08 AM

Looks like you are going to try to fix it by welding. That's the best route.

If you try anything else, you'll probably contaminate the material. And, if it doesn't work you won't have good luck welding it after it's been contaminated.

**WSSix** · #12 03-15-2015, 11:10 AM

I thought I would take a picture before I ground the welds down. These welds were laid in order to seal up some more pin holes. I have the temp set one setting higher than recommended. This worked well as the pipe has no leaks now. However, it blew through a little into the pipe so that won't work in the long run. Putting it on the recommended setting worked ok just had a few holes to seal up. I'm still thinking operator error more than anything else. Suggestions, comments, questions?

Thanks

Che70velle · #13 03-15-2015, 01:48 PM

Trey, my miller welder doesn't like to weld 16 gauge with the recommended .030 wire. Wants to burn through, even on the lowest settings. So I tried .024, and it made my welds work and look MUCH better, on the thinner stuff. Figured this out years ago doing some exhaust work.

**WSSix** · #14 03-15-2015, 03:12 PM

Thanks, Scott. My biggest concern with the .030 wire is if it causes me to build up too much of a bead. I tried slowing the feed way down but the wire would burn off all the way up to the nozzle. This resulted in sputtering for lack of a better term. My thought is that the power setting is too high for such a slow speed and it's burning what's sticking out instantly. No idea if that's right though. Other than the bead build up, the .030 wire seems to be working just fine. Good heat without burning through. Just not sure what to do with those damn pin holes when they pop up.

I missed your reply earlier, Mike. That's a good thought with the contamination. I hadn't considered that possibility. Ideally, I'd like to get to the point where these pin holes aren't an issue. Any suggestions? Thanks

MeanMike · #15 03-15-2015, 03:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WSSix

.... Any suggestions? Thanks

Tig. Any time you have to stop and start with a mig, there is a high posiblity of a void in the weld. Unless you can make a 360 degree weld in one pass with the mig, the pinholes are possible. Do you have an oxy acetylene torch? You could try gas welding with some coat hanger as filler. It would take some practice, but you won't have pinholes when done and very little filler to grind.

Vince@Meanstreets · #16 03-15-2015, 03:36 PM

I agree on the TIG. T, are these new tubes? Did you wash them out good?

Mandrel lube imbedded in the metal will wreak havoc on welds. Dirt and rust will too.

**WSSix** · #17 03-15-2015, 08:22 PM

Thanks Mike. I wish I had a tig but I'm going to have to make due with the mig. No oxyacetylene either.

Brand new pieces from Cone Eng, Vince. I clean everything down as I go. I don't even use my flap disc unless the metal has been cleaned. Denatured alcohol does a great job at cleaning the metal.

Thanks

Vince@Meanstreets · #18 03-15-2015, 09:34 PM

You got something going on there. Is it aluminized?

**WSSix** · #19 03-16-2015, 08:33 AM

Nope, mild steel. I do try to dip my nozzle into anti-splatter gel occasionally. What in particular are you seeing that gives you pause, Vince?

Thanks

Oh, in those pictures, I have run my wire brush over the welds to clean them a little before taking a picture of them.

**GregWeld** · #20 03-16-2015, 05:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dhutton

I recall reading that it is bad to weld on parts that have been cleaned with brake cleaner. A poisonous gas is produced. Please check on this before you proceed.

Don

Edit: here it is. https://lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php4?t=21877

It's not the brake cleaner --- it's the CHLORINE used.... So you want NON CHLORINATED brake cleaner!!