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  #11  
Old 11-15-2006, 06:47 PM
JUSTANOVA JUSTANOVA is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JoshC
What do you guys think about taking a piece of 1"x3"x(the proper length) bar stock and bolting it to the existing two holes - have two holes drilled approx. 1.5" in the bar stock below the two original holes. Essentially moving the R&P one inch out and 1.5" down? I have a new ididit steering column to put in as well. Notching the oil pan is still an option but this may be cleaner and certainly easier for me. And I even have some of the red paint left for the bar stock if it works.

http://img148.imageshack.us/img148/8653/1030689iv3.jpg

I don't think you want to go moving the rack around, may alter the bumpsteer characteristics etc...
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  #12  
Old 11-16-2006, 08:10 AM
Silver69Camaro Silver69Camaro is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JoshC
What do you guys think about taking a piece of 1"x3"x(the proper length) bar stock and bolting it to the existing two holes - have two holes drilled approx. 1.5" in the bar stock below the two original holes. Essentially moving the R&P one inch out and 1.5" down? I have a new ididit steering column to put in as well. Notching the oil pan is still an option but this may be cleaner and certainly easier for me. And I even have some of the red paint left for the bar stock if it works.

http://img148.imageshack.us/img148/8653/1030689iv3.jpg
Moving the rack down that much would be more than an extreme change, don't do it. That suspension has about .004" of theoretical bumpsteer (using a 28" toe span), so if you do want to move the rack, you have a little bit to play with. If you want an example, moving the rack down 1/2" will give you about .620" of bumpsteer...so a little bit changes the geometry considerably.

There are better ways to go about this. First, pull out that copper equalizing tube that spans between the two boots. Cut off the straps that fasten the boot to the rack, and rotate it so the tube will be near the front/bottom. Then replace the tube...this will get that part out of the way.

Be very careful when raising the motor, there isn't much room to play with on Camaros, espeically with a big block. In one of those photos it looks as if the motor will bolt in when resting on the rack (with the tube in the way). If this is indeed the case, I'd dent or notch the pan. Aim for 3/16" clearance or more.
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  #13  
Old 11-16-2006, 08:36 AM
BThibodeaux BThibodeaux is offline
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I have the WD chassis that is set up for the C4 suspension. I have a big block set-up, and the same oil pan. I also had the same problem you are encountering. Silver 69 is right. First relocate the vent tube, then see what you have. I had to notch about 5/8 inch out of the front of my pan. It was a fairly simple fix. I agree with all others, in that you do not want to relocate the steering geer without completely understanding the implications.

BTW, that is a great looking set-up you have.
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  #14  
Old 11-16-2006, 12:16 PM
Rob07002 Rob07002 is offline
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So what everyone is saying here is that if you want to run a BBC in a WD sub you need to mess with the rack and notch the pan???? UGH!
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  #15  
Old 11-16-2006, 12:46 PM
BThibodeaux BThibodeaux is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob07002
So what everyone is saying here is that if you want to run a BBC in a WD sub you need to mess with the rack and notch the pan???? UGH!

Please don't take this the wrong way, but anybody who gets nervous about notching a a little oil pan probably has no business attempting a build that utilizes aftermarket running gear.
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  #16  
Old 11-16-2006, 02:15 PM
Silver69Camaro Silver69Camaro is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BThibodeaux
Please don't take this the wrong way, but anybody who gets nervous about notching a a little oil pan probably has no business attempting a build that utilizes aftermarket running gear.
Gawd, I couldn't have said it better myself!

BTW, who said this issue exists with all Wayne Due subs? Is it really fair to generalize the situation like that?
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  #17  
Old 11-16-2006, 05:13 PM
69 L88 Camaro 69 L88 Camaro is offline
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Default Oil Pan

I just put a BBC in a 65 GTO and went through a similar problem. I started with a "winged" pan. If you look at where the front of the new sump meets the pan the radius from the factory part of the donor pan is missing. The new sump is moved forward a fair amount. I ended up with a Moroso pan that retained the factory radius and was just deeper and it fit. It also had the dents to clear the tie rods, Not that you will need them. Jegs was very good and exchanged the pans as I trial fit them and only charged me return shipping. I have the part number. If you want to look at what I am talking about it's in the online catalog.
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  #18  
Old 11-16-2006, 09:40 PM
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clill clill is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BThibodeaux
Please don't take this the wrong way, but anybody who gets nervous about notching a a little oil pan probably has no business attempting a build that utilizes aftermarket running gear.
You are probably right but who would build a frame for a Camaro that won't allow a big block chevy to bolt in ? It;s not like something is being adapted. This frame was meant to cradle a Chevy engine. Did he tell Wayne what he was putting in it ?
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  #19  
Old 11-17-2006, 06:26 AM
JoshC JoshC is offline
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OK guys, thanks for the thoughts on the bar stock idea. I will mod the pan. I do not have a stroker kit in it so I gather that there should be enough room.

Silver69Camaro, thanks for the tip. I will move the tube Sat and go from there. There is no way the rack will bolt up as it is now. Without that tube I should be about 1/2" shy of making the bolt.

BThibodeaux, it sounds like we have the same issues. Do you have any pics I can see of your fix? Thanks for the compliment, I hope to put it on the road this spring.

69 L88 Camaro, I think I am going to get be able to get by with moving the tube and notching the pan. Thanks for the offer and if for some reason this does not work, I will be taking you up on it.

Clill, I specifically ordered the frame for the BBC. I was told that it would work.

Yes, it does seem like BS that the motor will not bolt right in. You certainly would think it would after spending a few thousand on a custom frame. But, it isn't exactly the end of the world either. Not really a big deal at all once the decision was made on the best way to fix the problem. As my little brother likes to say "It is not the destination but the journey"

Anyhow, thanks again for the help guys and the collective knowledge has saved me trouble with my (bad) bar stock idea.
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  #20  
Old 11-17-2006, 07:01 AM
BThibodeaux BThibodeaux is offline
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BThibodeaux, it sounds like we have the same issues. Do you have any pics I can see of your fix? Thanks for the compliment, I hope to put it on the road this spring.

I will take some pics this weekend and post them here.
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