Tig 102

[Revved]

Originally Posted by Ravenworks

Austin Texas is in a dry county?!

You would be surprised how many counties out here are dry. Even going into Chilli's or Saltgrass Steak house in some counties you have to "join their club" to have a beer with your dinner. They can't serve alcohol to the general public but they can serve to member of their "private club."


I'm down for a run to Austin for a metalworking class!! It's only about a 3 hour drive for me. Get that set up Greg!!

[GregWeld]

If this is not a "structural" weld.... you could get yourself some silicone bronze...


By the way -- I don't think you could NOT have warpage on that flat plate of some kind. Any time you heat metal you expand it and when it cools it shrinks... since you're welding in only one area that area is going to expand and contract more (warpage).

What you may need to do is to make your gauges match --- but we don't know what you're building...

Does the piece require the two gauges of metal? Could you use an L shape and just plug weld it? Or use a thicker gauge and drill and tap it to attach your flat?

[Revved]

Originally Posted by GregWeld

If this is not a "structural" weld.... you could get yourself some silicone bronze...


By the way -- I don't think you could NOT have warpage on that flat plate of some kind. Any time you heat metal you expand it and when it cools it shrinks... since you're welding in only one area that area is going to expand and contract more (warpage).

What you may need to do is to make your gauges match --- but we don't know what you're building...

Does the piece require the two gauges of metal? Could you use an L shape and just plug weld it? Or use a thicker gauge and drill and tap it to attach your flat?

It is a radiator support. The "flange" is basically a close out to clean up the transition to the radiator core and giving a recessed area where the A/C condenser will sit. The flange is not structural- mostly cosmetic but having the added benefit of stiffening the panel. I know it can be done... I've done it on smaller pieces without the warpage- I've just never tried a large flat panel like this before. I'd rather not use angle iron as this is a high end build and I'm trying to make it as nice as possible. I just need to figure out what I'm doing wrong with my technique. I guess I could build a separate sheet metal "L" flange that I could spot weld instead of having to weld the entire edge...

[GregWeld]

Well --- seeing it really helps!



You're welding too much bead....cut those beads down to half an inch or 3/4's of an inch let it cool down and add another half an inch if it needs to be longer. WAY smaller welds --- skipping around the piece will really cut the warpage. There's a lot of metal there.... but it can't take that much heat without warping. Looks like there's 3 inches of weld on some of them -- and that's where you're running into trouble. Ya gotta sneak up on it!!

[GregWeld]

BTW --- WELDING ON FLAT is just a problem -- period. You'd be far better off making this out of a series of way smaller pieces with structure -- and then welding them together to make your final piece. Just my humble opinion.

[Revved]

Originally Posted by GregWeld

Well --- seeing it really helps!



You're welding too much bead....cut those beads down to half an inch or 3/4's of an inch let it cool down and add another half an inch if it needs to be longer. WAY smaller welds --- skipping around the piece will really cut the warpage. There's a lot of metal there.... but it can't take that much heat without warping. Looks like there's 3 inches of weld on some of them -- and that's where you're running into trouble. Ya gotta sneak up on it!!

Those 3" welds were done 3/4" to an inch at a time. I've been doing short welds just for that reason, quenching it and letting it sit till I can touch it by hand and then doing the next round of welds.

I'm going to think about the idea of breaking it up into separate pieces...

Thanks for the insight! If anyone else has ideas I'd like to hear them as well.. I know this can be done but obviously I'm not there yet!

[GregWeld]

Originally Posted by Revved

Those 3" welds were done 3/4" to an inch at a time. I've been doing short welds just for that reason, quenching it and letting it sit till I can touch it by hand and then doing the next round of welds.

I'm going to think about the idea of breaking it up into separate pieces...

Thanks for the insight! If anyone else has ideas I'd like to hear them as well.. I know this can be done but obviously I'm not there yet!

If it was easy -- the fat chicks could do it!


LOL

[Vince@Meanstreets]

Originally Posted by Revved

OK just ruined V3.0 Better than the last one but still warped the edges. I clamped it with a piece of 1" square tubing in about 5 spots down the length as I welded the top and bottom. I've got the heat turned as far down as it will go and still melt metal. I've been using one wet rag laying across the inside and another small one to quench each spot after my weld. I even tried rolling a bead around the opening to see if that would help control the warpage but still not flat. Somehow I must still be getting it too hot!!! I wonder if a different type of filler rod with a lower melting point would help? I've often noticed that when TIGing mild steel with this rod it tends to be sticky (not wanting to fully puddle) and I have to get it right on top of the tungsten to get it to melt.

Or I just need to get better at my metal working to straighten out the edges...

I think I will try some 16g for V4.0 And I do have some aluminum bar laying around that I will try for the clamping next time.

Has anyone tried that Eastwood welding heat putty?

can you list what size tungsten and filler you are using. I usually mig stuff like that. On a support piece I like to use tube then 16g to fill in. Most welds are fillet.

[Revved]

3/16 red stripe tungsten with 1/16 mild steel rod.

I do have some 1/16" red stripe tungsten I bought when I was learning on aluminum tubing but I never had luck with it.. kept melting down the tungsten before the aluminum. Perhaps I'd have better luck with it on steel?

[GregWeld]

Originally Posted by Revved

3/16 red stripe tungsten with 1/16 mild steel rod.

I do have some 1/16" red stripe tungsten I bought when I was learning on aluminum tubing but I never had luck with it.. kept melting down the tungsten before the aluminum. Perhaps I'd have better luck with it on steel?

Remember that you must match your tungsten SIZE to the amperage you're attempting to weld with.... they're rated differently whether you're welding in AC or DC.

1/16th (red) 2% Thoriated tungsten is rated at 30 to 80 amps on AC

DC will be rated HIGHER -- but, of course, Aluminum is welded in AC