1969 Torino

[FETorino]

Originally Posted by badmatt

very cute dry sump tank! new wheel choice i think is the best choice for this style of car just has that built for speed look.

I love the GT40 wheel look I just need to find a quality version of it I can afford in 19x10 and 20x12.



Yep an ALMS tank, it should be a good match for my pan and pump.

Originally Posted by compos mentis

Looks like ya got 'sumpthin tasty for that big badd Ford.

I can't walk into my spare room without tripping over parts for my FE.

[badmatt]

Originally Posted by FETorino

Yep an ALMS tank, it should be a good match for my pan and pump.

I need so step my game up..

Matty'

[Flash68]

Originally Posted by FETorino

Yep an ALMS tank, it should be a good match for my pan and pump.

Dang is that thing shallow or what? Looks sweet.

I remember looking into the reason behind having the dividers in there.... but I don't recall. ?

[badmatt]

Rob, Are you sure about going the SV1 route? there still fairly new to the market and i believe still in the development stage.

why not a "standard" 4500 series from Braswell or BLP?

Matt

[Ron in SoCal]

Originally Posted by Flash68

Dang is that thing shallow or what? Looks sweet.

I remember looking into the reason behind having the dividers in there.... but I don't recall. ?

Dividers align w the crank to minimize oil splash and act as a standard baffle would. Shallow design helps w scavenging...

[67XR7]

Originally Posted by FETorino

Its still the RS plugging away. When the quality of work drops off then you know I'm on it.

[Flash68]

Originally Posted by Ron in SoCal

Dividers align w the crank to minimize oil splash and act as a standard baffle would. Shallow design helps w scavenging...

I just remember when telling one of the well known oil pan makers about my application they said to not use those big dividers. Those were intended for high speed Nascar oval track applications or something like that.

Are you saying shallow is preferred? That's not my understanding but could be wrong. I always thought shallow was simply for clearance reasons.

[Ron in SoCal]

Not sure but that looks like the Dailey set up? RobFE will jump in soon enough. Every vendor takes a different approach along w the pump pick up design. Rob's pan looks similar to what ARE sells for LS motors and that's where my comment came from.

[FETorino]

More progress

Originally Posted by badmatt

Rob, Are you sure about going the SV1 route? there still fairly new to the market and i believe still in the development stage.

why not a "standard" 4500 series from Braswell or BLP?

Matt

Matt

I already have a Holley list 8082 1050 2circuit Dominator and a set of Quickfuel metering blocks with replaceable emulsion jets so that is what I will start with.

The SV1 has been out for a while and is a proven product. I had contacted Prosystems and he recommended a 1050 and maybe an SV1 depending on a complete set of engine specs. Maybe in the future.

Originally Posted by Flash68

I just remember when telling one of the well known oil pan makers about my application they said to not use those big dividers. Those were intended for high speed Nascar oval track applications or something like that.

Are you saying shallow is preferred? That's not my understanding but could be wrong. I always thought shallow was simply for clearance reasons.

Remember and FE and the copycat LS have deep skirted blocks and crossbolts. A shallow pan on an FE is a deeper pan on a SBC like yours. With regards to pan design you have to trust the guy building the pan knows what he is doing or choose another manufacturer. Bill builds his billet pans to scavenge oil efficiently and create crankcase vacuum. There is no need for a deep pan if the design is efficient and the pump is fed. You don't want oil in the pan you want it recirculated to the bearing surfaces.

[FETorino]

Back on the oiling subject. I plan on running a radiator with heat exchanger in it for my oil cooling. To do this I picked up the following trinket. R C&R filter diverter combo valve. This will let me regulate the level of oil cooling based on need. The oil needs to be 215 deg to prevent moisture buildup but no reason to run much above that. When I get the car back home I'll start laying out the plumbing figure out who is going to build the radiator for me and determine the radiator dimensions.

The scavenging out and pressure in fittings on my pump are AN16 as is the, in and return, on my tank. My pressure out on the pump is AN12 as is the fittings on this remote filter bypass valve combo. I think I may also run an Oberg style filter in the line from the pump to the tank.