Chad's 68 Camaro V3.0 build. LS3 & TCI goodies

[Flash68]

You're kind of a d!ck! Love it.

You know I'd vote for leaving the exhaust as is.

What?

[Matt@BOS]

I remember when you used to have to downshift to accelerate when pulling a grade.

Somehow I doubt you'll be having any issues with that now.

Matt

[DFRESH]

How about some updates Chad---silence usually means more money has been required--and we want to know about it.

Lunch this week?

D

[Chad-1stGen]

Originally Posted by DFRESH

How about some updates Chad---silence usually means more money has been required--and we want to know about it.

Lunch this week?

D

Doug,

How about lunch next week? No updates because the car was at Magnaflow for about a week and then I've been out of town since last Saturday. Car is ready for me to pick it up and its been killing me that I can't go get it NOW as I'm stuck in NorCal.

I've got a few things to tweak and then its off to TCI for some suspension tweaking and tuning next week

[intocarss]

I'm sure any of us SoCal people will be glad to go drive it home for you HELL we'll even fill her up with fuel !

[Flash68]

Originally Posted by Chad-1stGen

I'm stuck in NorCal.

You in Sac, or the bay ?

[Chad-1stGen]

Originally Posted by intocarss

I'm sure any of us SoCal people will be glad to go drive it home for you HELL we'll even fill her up with fuel !

That is what I love about this site. Everyone is so generous!!

Originally Posted by Flash68

You in Sac, or the bay ?

I'm in Sac. Driving the long drive home with the boat tomorrow.

[Chad-1stGen]

Picked the car up on Monday and got back out in the garage last night.

Exhaust sounds great but I've encountered new gremlins (at least I hope they are gremlins and not major problems).

The main thing that prevented the car from being driven in the past was front tire clearance and interference of one of the two pinion down bars on the rear end. After thrashing on other parts of the car I decided that the one pinion down bar was strong enough for a mild drive and threw my old front tires on and took the car for a real drive (as opposed to loading it on/off trailers).

It was not a confidence boosting drive. After warming up the oil I was getting 20 PSI at idle and 40 at high RPM. I also have significant engine vibration above 1500 RPM.

I am hoping I did the noob LS move so many others did and screwed up the oil pick up tube o-ring install when I swapped to the Autokraft pan and that is my oil pressure problem. If not then I don't know what to do next?

I am stumped by the vibration. It's 100% related to engine speed. Will vibrate in neutral sitting still in the driveway when you rev up the motor. vibrates driving at speed until you push in the clutch and/or shift into neutral at which point the vibrations are gone.

Since it was a new crate motor (did sit for 3 years before being run), new RAM flywheel and GM LS7 clutch I'm not sure how to diagnose it. I'm guessing it has something to do with the flywheel/clutch. Would bell housing run-out effect this? Pomona Valley Customs assured me they checked it and it was fine but after seeing their other work I have my doubts. Can you screw up an LS7 clutch install and cause vibration but otherwise have a good working clutch? What would you guys check?


I was supposed to participate in the Super Chevy Handling challenge but after last nights voyage there is no way I can make it.

Thanks

[Mkelcy]

Originally Posted by Chad-1stGen

Picked the car up on Monday and got back out in the garage last night.

Exhaust sounds great but I've encountered new gremlins (at least I hope they are gremlins and not major problems).

The main thing that prevented the car from being driven in the past was front tire clearance and interference of one of the two pinion down bars on the rear end. After thrashing on other parts of the car I decided that the one pinion down bar was strong enough for a mild drive and threw my old front tires on and took the car for a real drive (as opposed to loading it on/off trailers).

It was not a confidence boosting drive. After warming up the oil I was getting 20 PSI at idle and 40 at high RPM. I also have significant engine vibration above 1500 RPM.

I am hoping I did the noob LS move so many others did and screwed up the oil pick up tube o-ring install when I swapped to the Autokraft pan and that is my oil pressure problem. If not then I don't know what to do next?

I am stumped by the vibration. It's 100% related to engine speed. Will vibrate in neutral sitting still in the driveway when you rev up the motor. vibrates driving at speed until you push in the clutch and/or shift into neutral at which point the vibrations are gone.

Since it was a new crate motor (did sit for 3 years before being run), new RAM flywheel and GM LS7 clutch I'm not sure how to diagnose it. I'm guessing it has something to do with the flywheel/clutch. Would bell housing run-out effect this? Pomona Valley Customs assured me they checked it and it was fine but after seeing their other work I have my doubts. Can you screw up an LS7 clutch install and cause vibration but otherwise have a good working clutch? What would you guys check?


I was supposed to participate in the Super Chevy Handling challenge but after last nights voyage there is no way I can make it.

Thanks

Sorry to hear about still more glitches.

Unless PVC has a fixture with a round hole concentric with the crankshaft (like the McLeod adapter plate), I don't know how anyone checks the run-out on a T56 bellhousing.

That said, I'd look to the flywheel/pressure plate. I don't think disengaging the clutch would eliminate vibration caused by excesive bellhousing run-out.

[Chad-1stGen]

Originally Posted by Mkelcy

Sorry to hear about still more glitches.

Unless PVC has a fixture with a round hole concentric with the crankshaft (like the McLeod adapter plate), I don't know how anyone checks the run-out on a T56 bellhousing.

That said, I'd look to the flywheel/pressure plate. I don't think disengaging the clutch would eliminate vibration caused by excesive bellhousing run-out.

Thanks Mike.

I actually never tried revving the motor with the clutch. I was attempting to describe that the vibration is engine speed dependent only. I will try revving with the clutch in to see if that impacts it at all.

My understanding is you should check all bell housings and that you buy replacement alignment dowels to get proper run out.