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  #231  
Old 01-25-2013, 05:56 PM
Kenny Kenny is offline
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Originally Posted by Vegas69 View Post
That isn't half and half but I can see that working great except in cold weather.
That isn't actually what we used, but I saw it and thought it would be more along the lines of a streeter.
You just have to trust that the thinner unheated oil works better in cold temps than trying to heat thicker oil..... I promise. There would be nothing wrong with a pan heater though.

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Originally Posted by preston View Post
Were you cooling the high pressure oil coming out of the pump or after it came out of the engine on its way back to the tank ?

Is there a preference ? Does it make a difference ?

I run a oil/water cooler on the pressure side before it goes into the engine. I like this because as you mentioned it also warms up the oil which is good for a street based car, but I was thinking of adding additional cooling capacity via an air to air. But packaging means I would like to put it on the low pressure side. Thoughts ?
It really didn't matter as long as we passed sufficient volume to avoid starving the suction side. It really doesn not take long to heat a 0 or 10w oil. I guess if you are cruising in sub zero temps..... We also found power with a particular brand of dino oil over every synthetic we tested. It was the "fake" synthetic, if you will, the "superclean" crude that many companies pass off as synthetic.

By the way..... you guys do know they make a thermostatically controlled bypass, right?
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  #232  
Old 02-04-2013, 07:12 PM
next69 next69 is offline
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Where are the updates? Its been 10 days, we need a fix.
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  #233  
Old 02-05-2013, 01:12 PM
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Royalworks Royalworks is offline
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Originally Posted by Kenny View Post
We kind of found the opposite to be true. I was putting out quite a bit more power per cu/in NA than this build with a blower, and the air to oil worked best. The thing about using a thinner oil at reduced temps meant it did not have to be heated by the engine because of the flow rates at lower temps. Our 5w20 oil lasted much longer at lower temps without breaking down, than hotter 20/50 race oil. Keep in mind that the coolant basically keeps combustion temps under control and cools the oil by cooling surfaces that the oil contacts. Virtually all the cooling of critical parts is done through the oil, which makes the coolant a middle man of sorts.... just using a fairly small portion of the radiator area for the cooler. We kept our head temps at about 230° for best power and the ability to keep it stabilized. The cooler oil greatly reduced cooling system load..... I guess I am kind of pushing this idea because oil temps are so critical to component life.... I'll stop it now


Okay.....now......

I completely agree with this statement. Back in my Honda days I swore up and down that everyone that was running a turbo needed to install an oil cooler even if it was small. 9.5:1 and 8-10 lbs of boost on a Honda got things hot quick.

I do have a question on that though. How do you control the temp if it gets to cool? Is there a sort of thermostat you are using or are you just letting the coolant take care of that?
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  #234  
Old 02-05-2013, 07:56 PM
WSSix WSSix is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kenny View Post

By the way..... you guys do know they make a thermostatically controlled bypass, right?
Kenny already mentioned it.
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  #235  
Old 02-05-2013, 09:04 PM
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Stielow Stielow is offline
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Originally Posted by next69 View Post
Where are the updates? Its been 10 days, we need a fix.
I had Dewitt’s radiator custom make me a radiator core and intercooler core. The cores nest together to make an efficient package. The assembled the cores with tanks and mounted them togther. I had it made 23 inch tall and 24 inched wide to fit a Cadillac SRX turbo fan and shroud. After a long conversation with C&R they supplied a 10 kW oil cooler for the end tank. Dewitt also built in the power steering and transmission coolers. It maybe a bit overkill but I want to get the temps under control on the new car.



The top two coolers are power steering and transmission. The lower cooler is the engine oil cooler. Using oil to water coolers it will help heat and cool the oil.



I plan on mounting it as an assembly on Duramax Diesel radiator mounts. This thing is off setting some of my mass savings.

Dewitt did a killer job of building this deal. Having the ability to custom make everything makes a very nice package.

Mark
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  #236  
Old 02-05-2013, 09:30 PM
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Sieg Sieg is offline
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Doesn't matter how light it is if it's over-heated and parked. Nice bit of creative engineering.
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  #237  
Old 02-05-2013, 10:31 PM
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coolwelder62 coolwelder62 is offline
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Would love to see what the coolers inside the radiator look like.
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  #238  
Old 02-05-2013, 10:54 PM
1in1969 1in1969 is offline
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Hey Mark, just curious the reason for using the Caddi fan and shroud instead of the Mark VIII fan I've heard so much about. Thanks Shawn
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  #239  
Old 02-06-2013, 07:34 AM
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Sales@Dutchboys Sales@Dutchboys is offline
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Looks like they make a nice radiator, Ill have to keep them in mind for future projects. Also nice that they are right here in Michigan.
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  #240  
Old 02-06-2013, 08:43 AM
WSSix WSSix is offline
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I have a DeWitts radiator on my TA and always recommended them to customers for their Corvettes. Great product and company.

I'm wondering how available Mark VIII fans are now-a-days. That car hasn't been in production in a long time. I wonder how a C6 fan would compare? We should probably start a different thread so this doesn't get lost. It would be good to compile info on different factory fans especially since they are using Delta controllers now instead of own/off switches.
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