Thanks for the complements. I am lucky enough to have access to all of the big boy toys at work so I can build my own parts. My boss also lets me raid the drops bin so I can get most of my stock for free. I am too cheap to buy parts from the DSE or TCP so I just build them myself. I also like to make my own parts because I get to decide what the engineering compromises are. Metal working is one of the most challenging and rewarding activities that I do. The more I learn in the shop, the better and cheaper my designs get. I feel like it helps my driving also. You have to be really smooth when you are cutting on the lathe, never force it and feel the tool feedback in your hand, just like the autocross.
I consider all of my part prototypes at this point. I am not thrilled with my lower arms so a rev 3 will likely be in the works.
This is my zero dollar mini-tub (not really true, i bought a body saw and used at least $50 in wire, gas, blades and cutoff wheels):
It all starts with some careful mesurments. I figured I should start with the rearend, that way I couldn't chicken out and not cut up the car. I used my layout and mockups to learn that if I moved the springs in .5" per side I would still be able to use my leaves and not have to modify my Panhard bar or exhaust. On the axle, I simply welded up the center pin hole on my perches and welded some 1/4 thick strips to the side, ground smooth, then drilled holes for the u-bolts. It saved me from having to do any major cutting on my rearend.
You can see how one u-bolt passes through the perch, and the other touches it on the inside.
I reworked my shock mount to match by welding up the outer set of holes, re-drilling, and sloting the center pin hole, then I cut off the excess material and painted black.
I also moved the driver's side brake line mount because it was nearly rubbing the rim.
I cut the front mount to match the new width (with an additional .134" per side for spring toe) and welded in some 3/16 plate I sheared up at work. I just love having a big shear at my disposal.
It was all welded in and ground smooth.
Now for the big cuts.
I made a cardboard template and marked the line, I was originally going to use a second set of wheel tubs so that I didn't need to add a strip, but they were a little too rusty. After looking at the DSE booth, I think the mustang tubs might be the same, it would save a bunch of extra welding, but cost about $300, so I probably wouldn't, even if I could.
I also bulged the other houses:
clearanced, gained 7/8"
Ever so slighly bulged
2" wide 48" long 16 ga. I welded it in with about 1/8" per side overlap. I took it as far as I could without cutting the frame, gained about 1.75 inside and .875 outside.
Don't worry, I seam sealed it inside and out.
I took it as far as I could without cutting the frame, gained about 1.75 inside and .875 outside.
I also enlarged the rear of the tunnel where I was having some drive shaft clearanc issues
Enjoy.
Brian Hobaugh SCCA National Tour June 2014
First Hemi 'Cuda Convertible Ever Built
Short clips: Goodguys Pleasanton autocross and pit videos
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