My new shop - Page 3 - Lateral-g Forums

DRJDVM's '69 · #21 01-23-2014, 12:45 PM

Another factor to consider is once its coated, how anal are you going to be about it looking perfect for the rest of its life?

I did a Home Depot DIY kit and it looked awesome for a year or so....it has some peeling and stains that wont come off now, but overall I'm still happy. I did it in white and it made a HUGE improvement in the overall brightness of the shop.....

Its doesn't look perfect anymore but its way better than a standard concrete slab

If you are going to be anal about it staying perfect forever...good luck....none of them will

Think of it like a car paint job.... get something decent and don't worry when it get rock chips and scratches in it when you beat the snot out of the car....or spend a fortune and worry about every last bug that hits the paint and lose sleep over a couple of rock chips.... your choice....

jy211 · #22 01-23-2014, 01:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mitch_04

Garage Forums has a flooring section with a huge amount of information. Race Deck seems to be the best for a used-hard shop, but is very expensive. Epoxy seems to matter most on the condition of the concrete, tons of prep and a quality product go a long way.

You will have more people over there to just tell you to use the search function to look for what you want...I'll save you the post!

Che70velle · #23 01-23-2014, 01:38 PM

I have a good friend that is a dealer for the race deck stuff. He did his garage with it, and it looks great, but you can forget about rolling an engine hoist over it. The wheels sink in, and your stuck. The stuff is too soft.

Vince@Meanstreets · #24 01-23-2014, 07:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Che70velle

I have a good friend that is a dealer for the race deck stuff. He did his garage with it, and it looks great, but you can forget about rolling an engine hoist over it. The wheels sink in, and your stuck. The stuff is too soft.

Plus it's a pain to keep clean. Oil, fluids and dirt gets trapped in it.

rwhite692 · #25 01-23-2014, 07:29 PM

I have Armstrong "Imperial Texture" VCT tile (The name is odd since it has no texture) in my 24x36 shop. It's been down for about 4 years now, I'm quite happy with it. Occasionally gets a weld burn on it but since the color runs through the whole 1/8" thickness, you can take a razor blade to it and scrape it off. It's pretty damn durable, more than I had expected (note how well it holds up to pallet jacks, etc next time you are at your local supermarket.) And it was very cheap, and easy to repair if I ever decide I want to replace any tiles. The pics shown are right after I put it down, I have not done anything to maintain it since, other than to mop once in a while, and it still looks pretty decent, after four years of complete neglect. I think I will move stuff around one of these days and give it a buff and polish, seeing these pics again reminds me of how nice VCT can look, when it's treated well, LOL.

I just couldn't see spending $3k on a high end 100% solids epoxy process like Wolverine, which is about the only type of epoxy system I'd go with, if I were to do epoxy. I think that the concrete polishing/staining/sealing process is another nice option. -Rob

MoparCar · #26 01-23-2014, 09:21 PM

What did you have to do at the concrete joints? Did they have to be filled prior to the VCT?

**Revved** · #27 01-23-2014, 10:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rwhite692

I have Armstrong "Imperial Texture" VCT tile (The name is odd since it has no texture) in my 24x36 shop. It's been down for about 4 years now, I'm quite happy with it. Occasionally gets a weld burn on it but since the color runs through the whole 1/8" thickness, you can take a razor blade to it and scrape it off. It's pretty damn durable, more than I had expected (note how well it holds up to pallet jacks, etc next time you are at your local supermarket.) And it was very cheap, and easy to repair if I ever decide I want to replace any tiles. The pics shown are right after I put it down, I have not done anything to maintain it since, other than to mop once in a while, and it still looks pretty decent, after four years of complete neglect. I think I will move stuff around one of these days and give it a buff and polish, seeing these pics again reminds me of how nice VCT can look, when it's treated well, LOL.

I just couldn't see spending $3k on a high end 100% solids epoxy process like Wolverine, which is about the only type of epoxy system I'd go with, if I were to do epoxy. I think that the concrete polishing/staining/sealing process is another nice option. -Rob

That actually looks like it would work very well!

Vegas69 · #28 01-23-2014, 10:37 PM

I have something very similar to the Armstrong tiles pictured in my detached garage and they are in terrible shape after about 10 years of service.

**Sieg** · #29 01-23-2014, 10:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Vegas69

I have something very similar to the Armstrong tiles pictured in my detached garage and they are in terrible shape after about 10 years of service.

Chisel it off, spray adhesive remover, scrape with a razor scraper, clean again, rinse, burnish with aggressive pad, apply sealer and polish. It's as much fun as removing Dynamat.

rwhite692 · #30 01-24-2014, 12:03 PM

I think that most problems with VCT come from not sealing it well and then exposing it to moisture, whereby the moisture can intrude at the joints between and get under the tile and attack the adhesive. I definitely wouldn't recommend it for a daily driver type of garage where wet vehicles would be parked on it and expose it to standing water conditions, particularly if it is never maintained. As I mentioned you can see how well it does hold up in some pretty tough environments, when it is properly maintained. I think in terms of performance vs. cost, it is pretty tough to beat. I figure to clean and reseal mine every few years is probably adequate, as I don't obsess over its appearance, etc.