Thermal issues, aka over heating question - Page 3 - Lateral-g Forums

rkleypas · #21 07-25-2015, 01:04 PM

Andrew, I will definitely check the heater hoses to make sure they are getting hot. I took the car out for a drive in 100 degree Houston humidity yesterday. VA was cranked to the max, The Highway on XM and my wife and I were comfortable. While driving, temp stayed between 170-180. Pulled it into the shop and let it idle for 5 minutes and it hovered at 200. I think the overflow being empty when I started this journey was causing air to get into the system? The overflow is staying 3/4 full, no bubbling back and it seems to be much more stable. I still need to test it more, but I think I'm on the right track. I am thankful for all the help. I'll keep you all posted. Andrew, I'm waiting on the connector to do the PWM, so I'll be in touch soon...

Chad-1stGen · #22 07-27-2015, 12:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rkleypas

Andrew, I will definitely check the heater hoses to make sure they are getting hot. I took the car out for a drive in 100 degree Houston humidity yesterday. VA was cranked to the max, The Highway on XM and my wife and I were comfortable. While driving, temp stayed between 170-180. Pulled it into the shop and let it idle for 5 minutes and it hovered at 200. I think the overflow being empty when I started this journey was causing air to get into the system? The overflow is staying 3/4 full, no bubbling back and it seems to be much more stable. I still need to test it more, but I think I'm on the right track. I am thankful for all the help. I'll keep you all posted. Andrew, I'm waiting on the connector to do the PWM, so I'll be in touch soon...

I'm still curious. With the car sitting still idling once it gets hot, if you bring the RPM's up to 2k+ with the car not moving does it cool off again?

rkleypas · #23 07-27-2015, 01:44 PM

Chad,
I still need to check the temp at 2000 rpm. I took it out for a drive last night and it did great. When I got home, I idled it for 5 minutes and it got to 250. Grrr. Fans are running. I'm starting to wonder if the water pump is weak since I could not see any flow in the radiator with the cap off. If I rev it with the cap off and see movement, perhaps the water pump is weak? Something has to explain why it cools perfectly while moving and starts to climb at idle; again, fans are running to the tune of a jet engine.

Chad-1stGen · #24 07-27-2015, 01:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rkleypas

Chad,
I still need to check the temp at 2000 rpm. I took it out for a drive last night and it did great. When I got home, I idled it for 5 minutes and it got to 250. Grrr. Fans are running. I'm starting to wonder if the water pump is weak since I could not see any flow in the radiator with the cap off. If I rev it with the cap off and see movement, perhaps the water pump is weak? Something has to explain why it cools perfectly while moving and starts to climb at idle; again, fans are running to the tune of a jet engine.

2K rpm is just a random number well above idle. The reason I'm pushing is that your symptoms sounds very similar to my own. I also thought weak waterpump and even went as far as to ship it back to the manufacturer to have it tested. Turned out I still had air in the system despite over 2k miles of street driving...

Mine wouldn't get to 250 at idle but it would get to 215/220 at low rpm. I first realized it was engine speed when I downshifted to go pass a car on a steep grade on the freeway. I was cruising along at 70 mph and 1600-1700 rpm in 6th gear. When I got stuck behind a car I quickly downshifted to 4th and passed the car at 3,000 rpm plus. In the handful of seconds it took to pass the car my temp dropped 10* due to the high RPM.

Getting all the air out of my motor wasn't easy.

dhutton · #25 07-27-2015, 01:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rkleypas

Chad,
I still need to check the temp at 2000 rpm. I took it out for a drive last night and it did great. When I got home, I idled it for 5 minutes and it got to 250. Grrr. Fans are running. I'm starting to wonder if the water pump is weak since I could not see any flow in the radiator with the cap off. If I rev it with the cap off and see movement, perhaps the water pump is weak? Something has to explain why it cools perfectly while moving and starts to climb at idle; again, fans are running to the tune of a jet engine.

Sorry for the stupid question, but is your fan turning the wrong direction? Sounds crazy but it has happened before...

Don

**GregWeld** · #26 07-27-2015, 06:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rkleypas

Chad,
I still need to check the temp at 2000 rpm. I took it out for a drive last night and it did great. When I got home, I idled it for 5 minutes and it got to 250. Grrr. Fans are running. I'm starting to wonder if the water pump is weak since I could not see any flow in the radiator with the cap off. If I rev it with the cap off and see movement, perhaps the water pump is weak? Something has to explain why it cools perfectly while moving and starts to climb at idle; again, fans are running to the tune of a jet engine.

The FANS aren't needed when you're moving.... the airflow thru the radiator is enough.

Are your fans mounted in shrouds? Is there a gap between the shrouds and the radiator? Have you checked the voltage at the fans vs at the alternator?

What fans and how many CFM do they move? Do they both come on at the same time or are they staggered temp wise?

rkleypas · #27 07-27-2015, 06:51 PM

I'm going to get a picture of the fans here shortly. I'm guessing that they are turning in the right direction. They should pull air into the engine compartment across the radiator? Is there a sure fire way to get air out of the engine? Like I said before, I will buy the appropriate tool if needed. Pics in a bit

rkleypas · #28 07-27-2015, 08:39 PM

Temp dropped 20-30 degrees into the normal range when I revved it to 2000 rpm. Now I have the front end jacked up trying to burp the air out of the system. Fans are pulling air into the engine compartment. Shrouds look good

cjsgarage · #29 07-28-2015, 01:53 AM

I have a tool called an Airlift, which is just a fancy venturi vacuum mounted to a radiator. It works wonders for getting air out. If it's worth the 100$, you can get one on a tool truck (SnapOn, Matco, Mac, Cornwell). The other tool I use to help burp air is a funnel that mounts to the radiator fill. I forget its exact name, but it's usually yellow.. sometimes red.. and can be found at auto parts stores. It makes SURE the highest point is the radiator. Subarus, Porsches, BMWs and all kinds of other cars are just as hard to get the air out of.

Fan shrouds make a huge difference. But if you're not pulling enough CFM at idle, you're going to overheat. Make sure you have adequate fans, and make sure they're shrouded.

cjsgarage · #30 07-28-2015, 02:04 AM

Oh. And I know it's summer, but I always run the heater when I'm bleeding the cooling system. You don't want an air bubble trapped because your heater core didn't get flow. Some, if not all, of the A/C systems have a heater shut off for when the dial is set to cold. Turning it to hot and turning the blower motor on at least one click should do the trick. Make sure you're getting hot air out of the vents, not cold air. Cold air would point to air in the system.

Something no one has brought up..

is your sender designed for your gauge? It is possible it's not heating up as much as you think. If the sender isn't matched to your gauge, it could have a steeper curve than the one it actually requires. You can buy a infrared thermometer fairly cheap.. and they come in handy for all kinds of stuff.