Yikes....it took a whole lot of time to get thru this part, but the suspension is about 95%. The rear frame rails are moved in (~3.25" a side) and its time to perform the floorectomy on the 70 GTO to get the body onto this new platform. A few quick pics.
Nah, Im not nearly qualified to weld on chassis. It started life as an Art Morrison Max-G frame and I had a local race car shop make a few 'tweaks' to it. Actually, it needed to be tweaked because I couldnt get it made the way I wanted directly from A/M. So I did the next best thing.
It worked out real well. I will be going back to the local shop for the floor work and the cage necessary for the NHRA certification. Originally I was just going to go with a 10.0 type setup, but Ive been assured that it will be considerably quicker than 10.0, so the next cert level is 8.50. Not really a big deal, as both certs require door bars and the cross bar in back of the rear seats. Those are the pieces that make daily use a PITA. The additional bars for the quicker cert are pretty much out of the way from the seats. I guess eventually Ill see how bad it is. Ill be using moly tubing, which can be smaller diameter than standard DOM, so maybe that will help a bit. Doubtful. Also, the shop doing the work said they can make the bars as 'unobtrusive' as possible. Whatever that means. Im pretty sure Ill be covering as much of it as I can with padding.
Im anxious to get the body on this thing. Cant wait to see it at the actual ride height with the tires tucked in and up. But that wont be until mid to late July. Also need to trial fit the one piece VFN front end. Gonna do that this weekend just to see how well we did in front tire placement. Might get a pic or two of that.
Nah, Im not nearly qualified to weld on chassis. It started life as an Art Morrison Max-G frame and I had a local race car shop make a few 'tweaks' to it. Actually, it needed to be tweaked because I couldnt get it made the way I wanted directly from A/M. So I did the next best thing.
It worked out real well. I will be going back to the local shop for the floor work and the cage necessary for the NHRA certification. Originally I was just going to go with a 10.0 type setup, but Ive been assured that it will be considerably quicker than 10.0, so the next cert level is 8.50. Not really a big deal, as both certs require door bars and the cross bar in back of the rear seats. Those are the pieces that make daily use a PITA. The additional bars for the quicker cert are pretty much out of the way from the seats. I guess eventually Ill see how bad it is. Ill be using moly tubing, which can be smaller diameter than standard DOM, so maybe that will help a bit. Doubtful. Also, the shop doing the work said they can make the bars as 'unobtrusive' as possible. Whatever that means. Im pretty sure Ill be covering as much of it as I can with padding.
Im anxious to get the body on this thing. Cant wait to see it at the actual ride height with the tires tucked in and up. But that wont be until mid to late July. Also need to trial fit the one piece VFN front end. Gonna do that this weekend just to see how well we did in front tire placement. Might get a pic or two of that.
I had swing outs on the previous version of this car. They pivoted at the bottom and when closed, had a pin at the top that kept them closed. That setup worked, but because of the pivot at the bottom and pin at the top, they rattled. A lot. No big deal on a race car. Open headers will mask almost all of the other noises.
Im looking into removeable door bars. Something that bolts in, tight, when it has to be there, and can be left in the shop when youre driving on the street. My chassis guy has some interesting ideas that sound good.
Thanks Chris. Ill let my chassis guy look those over. He's the expert on that safety/NHRA legal stuff. But I am also looking for a pedal set for brakes and clutch. I see where polyperformance.com has a pretty good selection. Im looking into the CNC brake stuff (not really familiar with them). Need a dual M/C setup with a B_bar for the brakes and a single for the clutch. They list exactly what I need in at least 4 pedal ratios. Baer says either the 6.2 or 6.8 ratio with their recommended M/C sizes for the monoblocks.
Brian Hobaugh SCCA National Tour June 2014
First Hemi 'Cuda Convertible Ever Built
Short clips: Goodguys Pleasanton autocross and pit videos
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