Max G Chassis Install Shop???

[gearhead1186]

thanks for chiming in.. not to be rude but now that we have that settled I would like to return to the thread topic.

[mazspeed]

Originally Posted by Flash68

Maz, what were you experiencing exactly that prompted you to get the extra baffling work done? Fuel starvation around corners when tank less than 1/2 full or something like that? Anything else?

Yeah I was getting fuel starvation at 1/4 tank on long right hand sweepers and hard acceleration. After they rebuilt the tank I have had no such issues on even less fuel. As of right now it acts as a fuel cell in that respect.

[Flash68]

Originally Posted by mazspeed

Yeah I was getting fuel starvation at 1/4 tank on long right hand sweepers and hard acceleration. After they rebuilt the tank I have had no such issues on even less fuel. As of right now it acts as a fuel cell in that respect.

What pump have you been using? Did you switch it out?

I read on another thread that a guy switched from Walbro to Bosch and the problem was eliminated, which is one reason I was planning on going Bosch.

Sorry for the continued segway.

[gearhead1186]

Any other tips/advice for the frame install. Things to have in mind?

[mazspeed]

Originally Posted by Flash68

What pump have you been using? Did you switch it out?

I read on another thread that a guy switched from Walbro to Bosch and the problem was eliminated, which is one reason I was planning on going Bosch.

Sorry for the continued segway.

Edelbrock, same before and after.
I do tend to push the car very hard though, not saying anyone else doesn't, but I did have these problems with the stock tank, but since it's been back, I have had no problems with fuel starvation.

[wiedemab]

Originally Posted by gearhead1186

Any other tips/advice for the frame install. Things to have in mind?

Poor guy - can't get this thread off the fuel tank topic.

Just my $.02, but I would say to trust AME with their recommendations on the shop for the frame install.

[CraigMorrison]

Originally Posted by gearhead1186

Any other tips/advice for the frame install. Things to have in mind?

Seating/ride height/how far the body is going to be sectioned over the frame

You can either have the boey "sit" on top of the chassis and have 4" of frame visible, split the difference of have the body sectioned all the way over the chassis. This is going to affect ride height or at least how low the car looks and it can also remove up to 4" of headroom in the car if you make the chassis even completely hidden by the body.

The stock seat in these cars is pretty thick, so by lowering the seat brackets and chosing a modern bucket that has a thinner seat cushion you can make up for this reduction.

Alloway's Challenger he built for Ken Nester is a great example. 47" to the top of the roof, 4.5" ride height and an owner who is 6'5" and about 325lbs. Ken fits the car like a glove and is very comfy driving it.

While its not a terrible pain, it's just another thing to think about when planning the build of your car.

[HRBS]

We generally set the top of the rocker with the top of the frame. This will hide the frame rails as Craig mentioned and usually yields a 4.5"-5" rocker ride hight. But with that comes other issues like Craig mentioned. It introduces issues such as front sheet metal mounting, radiator support modifications (remember you're now lowering the way the entire body fits the frame), the trans tunnel become larger than normal (due to the trans being pushed up in the floor) then that leads to throttle pedal clearance issues etc.
That is why its a good idea and sit and or talk to a shop about HOW and WHAT you are looking for. Anyone can throw a number at you. But that number may be the simplist method and may not be what you invisoned.
One modification usually leads to another and this is what makes estimates on custom work difficult. A good builder works with the knowledge of whats next down the line or what will result from the current modification. A bad builder does what you ask and after hes paid can care less of the finished product after it leaves his shop. Like others mentioned, you're looking at close to 250 hrs. Those two shops that estimated 5-6k are a little off IMO.
I'm just trying to prepare you... dont want to see another member get shafted.

[CraigMorrison]

Originally Posted by HRBS

its a good idea and sit and or talk to a shop about HOW and WHAT you are looking for. Anyone can throw a number at you. But that number may be the simplist method and may not be what you invisoned.
One modification usually leads to another and this is what makes estimates on custom work difficult. A good builder works with the knowledge of whats next down the line or what will result from the current modification. A bad builder does what you ask and after hes paid can care less of the finished product after it leaves his shop.

GREAT ADVICE!!!!

We've seen a lot of guys unfortunately get burned because they haven't done this, make assumptions and go for the low dollar deal - usually paid up front. It almost always ends in a big trainwreck, an unhappy customer and a bad name for the quality builders out there.



Now back to the topic at hand.....

[ironworks]

The seats will also be an issue since the floor of the car has been raised above stock. If the customer is tall the inside passenger compartment can get pretty tight. The floor will now be higher or even to the rocker.

Rodger