? on power window install

[brans72]

Any thoughts on just using factory power windows I have already?

[camcojb]

Originally Posted by brans72

Any thoughts on just using factory power windows I have already?

why not, they worked well when the car was new..............

Jody

[camcojb]

Originally Posted by GregWeld

Scott --- and Jody.

So do you see this as an ELECTRIC LIFE problem --- over another brand?

I have not tried any other brands so I have no idea if others are the same or not.

[brans72]

I am debating still, I know I need 2 motors,new boots for the doors and check the harness out. I just talked to my buddy James Hinshaw onwer of Hinshaw Chevelle that is local he said he would check all motors and wiring for me when I go pick up a few parts I got ordered and said he could reloom like factory did harness since it is orginal. He also said normally harness is still good on them so spend my $ else where on the car if harness is in decent shape.

[Romulus]

Originally Posted by GregWeld

Scott --- and Jody.

So do you see this as an ELECTRIC LIFE problem --- over another brand?

I can add don't use Hoffman Group - but that goes for almost anything they sell.

My first choice would be factory regulators and motors with good clean wiring.

Those rubber seals will put up a fight.

[Matt@BOS]

I have a set of factory rebuilt ones, and the passenger side goes up and down fine, but the driver side stays open about 3/4" because of the weather stripping, so you have to open the door like others have noted with electric life. I haven't installed the rear quarter window regulators though, because the company that made them built them incorrectly, and I'm not exactly eager to take the interior out again.

Matt

[gearheadgarage]

Power windows in a Camaro is a cool option, but they are a real let-down. By the time you buy all the parts, and either install them or pay to install them, it's not worth it- unless you HAVE to have power to run Marquez, Fesler or other panels.

I have installed nearly 50 sets in Camaros over the years and am VERY good at adjusting the windows. Nonetheless, unless I was putting them in a '67, I'd try to talk the customer out of it. Electric Life is not the only culprit, all of the kits seem decent at best. As long as you know what to truly expect going in, you may still decide to convert to power windows. The key is understanding that they will not function at the level of a new BMW, Chevy, Honda.....If you're cool with that, then fine let's do it. 50% of potential "converts" opt out when I show them a set in another car- especially convertibles. The rest seem fine with it when we're done because we've set realistic expectations and both parties are on the same page. After all, communication & clear expectations are paramount when building these types of cars.

It's important to understand that just because you've spent good money for a part doesn't necessarily ensure that it's gonna satisfy!!

[Musclerodz]

Originally Posted by GregWeld

Relays are more about the capacity of the switch - over the voltage/amperage some load sees. Given the proper gauge wiring etc. The relay is just a switchable switch (I like that term).... but it doesn't raise or lower the voltage.

If you compare the wiring gauge on an older car - and then run it thru an old pull style switch - not only are you possibly reducing the voltage (contact switch) you're also arcing etc... that was fine with the old T12 headlights... but now we want to run big old nasty big watt jobbies.... NOW you need a relay and some appropriate gauge wiring to handle that load. If not - you'll overload the stock wiring - and you'll burn up the switch. Ditto an electric fan. You want the fan to get heavy gauge wiring - they can pull 30 amps momentary (start up load)... and you're switching them on via a short to ground thru the temp/switch. That's when you use a relay... to have the switch switch the switch.... It takes barely anything to switch the relay - and then the fan sees full voltage.

I'm only tossing this out there - because about 90% of the guys I know - still do not understand a "relay".

Correct that voltage is not affected, amperage is affected. Voltage is like horsepower, amperage is like torque. Also correct that given proper wire size, a relay is not needed. Problem is when you need a 12-14 guage wire to power a window motor or headlight, and you have to pass through a switch with contacts equal to 22 guage, you have a built in resistance. The resistance will eventually build to the point it will stop the flow of electricity and the motor will quit. If held on long enough the switch and or wire would get hot and eventually fail. The relay bypasses this built in choke by attaching the 12 guage wire directly the the power source and turning the switch into JUST a switch, not a power feed.

As far as the motors electric life uses, I have not looked a set carefully, but if they are the imported motors and not Delco units, they are weak out of the box. I am pretty sure they are the same motors used the 4th gen camaros and if anybody has owned one of those long enough, they have replaced the craptastic window motors they used. The aftermarket ones worked great for a few months, but then start getting slower and slower until they just quit.

We just started selling Nu-Relics and installing 2 kits in the shop right now. One in a 68 camaro, and one in a 70 Firebird. So far I am happy with them. Once we have some feedback in these cars we will either start selling them or continue looking for another option.

[GregWeld]

Originally Posted by Musclerodz

Correct that voltage is not affected, amperage is affected. Voltage is like horsepower, amperage is like torque. Also correct that given proper wire size, a relay is not needed. Problem is when you need a 12-14 guage wire to power a window motor or headlight, and you have to pass through a switch with contacts equal to 22 guage, you have a built in resistance. The resistance will eventually build to the point it will stop the flow of electricity and the motor will quit. If held on long enough the switch and or wire would get hot and eventually fail. The relay bypasses this built in choke by attaching the 12 guage wire directly the the power source and turning the switch into JUST a switch, not a power feed.

Gee.... isn't that what I said??

[ccracin]

Originally Posted by GregWeld

Gee.... isn't that what I said??

That was 14 posts ago. I had forgotten already! I'm glad it was restated.

Actually I am very interested in the Nu-Relic feedback Mike. We haven't purchased window regulators yet. Please do post when you have formed some opinions. Thanks.