Ideas for Horsepower Mods

[Flash68]

Originally Posted by GregWeld

Spend 11 Grand and buy yourself a real motor....


http://www.smedingperformance.com/ch...orsepower.html

Originally Posted by makoshark

That's a smoking price for a small block 427. Look at what you get, all forged motor, Dart block, carb to oil pan with 3 year warranty. I can guarantee that you cannot build that motor yourself for that price, with warranty and already dyno'd and tuned. Absolutely nothing wrong with sticking to the old school small blocks. I have nearly that much in my 350 and its not dyno tuned, nor does it have a warranty.

Heck you can get 540 hp out of a hydraulic roller 383 with good quality parts for a lot less.

I'd say keep the block if it's good, stroke it and put some good heads on there and you'll be happy with over 500hp.

[Bucketlist2012]

Originally Posted by Flash68

Heck you can get 540 hp out of a hydraulic roller 383 with good quality parts for a lot less.

I'd say keep the block if it's good, stroke it and put some good heads on there and you'll be happy with over 500hp.

Thanks.. I will look into that..


That is why I am asking, so I get opinions. I won't pull the trigger until around Christmas.

I will go in for a "tune up"...

[intocarss]

I do like the idea of big Cubic Inches. But I agree with Flash. My buddy built Mike Wrights (Black 69 PT Camaro) 383 and it makes 541 Hp and 519 tq

It's JMOHO but you have a 70's OEM LT1(From carb to pan) Why gut it just so you can use the block. It's got to be worth some $$ as a whole? If you're going with a OEM block , you can find those pretty cheap. Then get your rotating assembly, cam, heads etc and you're ready to go. I myself prefer an after market block for anything over 500Hp

[Flash68]

Good call, Jer.... Mike's 383 is a perfect example.

[Bucketlist2012]

Thanks for the Info..

I was always about it being a Real Z/28 with the real driveline, but I have gone crazy on the suspension and brakes, so it may not matter anymore..

I may just want to set the whole engine aside In case I ever sell it, and replace the engine and M-21 with something new.

I agree with not gutting it because it is original from Carb to pan. except for the comp cam valvetrain..And it is .40 over

What about local engine builder's ? I still am going to ask Steve about it, but I wanted to get opinions before I talk to him..

My timeline is Around the holidays and the new year..So plenty of time to think and also beat the snot out of the set up I have now.

I will autocross this set up in November in Pleasanton before doing anything..

[clill]

I agree with saving the orig. #'s matching engine. If you look around you can probably find a great deal on a built up smallblock that someone has taken out because they are putting a LS in. That leads me to my next suggestion which is to bite the bullet and switch over to a LS engine. They are just lightyears ahead of what you are wanting to throw money at.

And didn't someone just recently post problems with a Smeding engine they had just bought ?

[Bucketlist2012]

I just threw a ton of money on parts for my Small block...Ceramic coated headers, aluminum water pump, fuel tank, ect... They are brand new.

If I knew my LT-1 was feeling tired, I wouldn't have thrown all the money at it, and I would have waited to go LS.

I may just have to increase the power on what I have and live with it for a while.

[GregWeld]

I've never heard of an engine builder that "someone" hasn't had a problem with... Usually it's never the actual person that BOUGHT something - but they had a "friend" or someone they knew that did...

[Bucketlist2012]

It isn't like my car doesn't run, and it is a mid 13 to low second car.

So I may just wait until the end of the Year to see where the Election and the tax cuts go..

I mean I can still drive my car, and Cash is good to have for now...

[hotrod69camaro]

I put together a 383 hydraulic roller pump gas sbc for my 69 and it was between 10 and 11k. Made 541 HP on the dyno. And thats starting with everything new.