Compressors

[Sieg]

Originally Posted by bdahlg68

I also have lots of cordless or electric tools. Prefer air for certain applications also and also just want the flexibility. We'll see. Don't want to be unhappy / unsatisfied, but at a certain point the money is better spend elsewhere right now.Thanks for tips and pointers everyone.

I was thinking about you while listening to my air compressor running constantly with my 2" sander earlier this week. Ingersoll-Rand 20 gal, 3.3 hp, rated 10 cfm @ 40 psi, 7.4 @ 90, 100 psi max pressure. The little air sander kicks it's butt in less than a minute of continuous run time.

[GregWeld]

Here's the part people don't understand about compressors... The tank just holds air at a set psi (Max and min) -- once the minimum setting is reached -- the motor and pump kick on... if they ARE NOT capable of producing more air than is required by the tool -- they'll never catch up.

That's why just matching the numbers of the tool with a compressor that is rated @ LESS or almost the same doesn't work. It doesn't matter how big the storage tank is -- that just gives you a "use time" BEFORE the compressor has to kick on -- but then once it does - it's going to run full blast and never catch up.

People don't realize how seriously annoying that is. Not having enough air to just do the work - AND listening to the stupid compressor run and run and run.

[clill]

"The good news is the BURST rating of 1" schedule 80 PVC is 2000 PSI.... yep you read it right -- TWO THOUSAND PSI.... and it's rated for a maximum working pressure of 500 PSI... so your 125 or 150 psi should keep you out of the XRay room! "

The problem isn't with the sticks of pipe, it is usually the fittings that break.

[GregWeld]

Originally Posted by clill

The problem isn't with the sticks of pipe, it is usually the fittings that break.

Well.... you can't use schedule 40 fittings on schedule 80 pipe if you want the same ratings!

Fittings and pipe carry the same rating... but the big box stores will carry only schedule 40 stuff. I'm going to have to come down there and take you to a real plumbing store!!

Of course -- I'm not saying YOU did this... as usual... I write my posts so that OTHER people reading them will get info to think about.


What I find with most people is that they over tighten PVC fittings... or don't use primer before gluing. Using teflon tape on the threaded fittings makes it real easy to over torque them. We're all used to torquing engine fittings!

[Sieg]

Originally Posted by GregWeld

People don't realize how seriously annoying that is. Not having enough air to just do the work - AND listening to the stupid compressor run and run and run.

I have...........for years now.

Also the more it runs the more condensation it makes.........right?

Nothing like having a water injected sander............another system you don't want to skimp on is your in-line filter/dryer.

[GregWeld]

Well said Sieg!


The less the compressor runs -- the less water.

Best plumbing website I've found FOR IDEAS HOW TO RUN LINES ETC --- is TP TOOLS.


DO NOT BUY THEIR PLUMBING -- they use IRON PIPE -- what happens when you mix water and iron?

Personally -- all my plumbing is COPPER... all my "take off lines" run UP from the main supply lines -- and there's a drain at the bottom of every take off... and an oil/water separator on the main. You'd be amazed at how much water blows out when I open the drain valve.

You'll see how this all works on the TP Tools website. The key is to not push water directly to your tool... YOU WILL have water in the lines. Now it's just a matter of dealing with it.

So in the Pacific NorthWET -- we have high humidity.... and if you think about compressing AIR -- you're also compressing that humidity at the same rate. We're not separating the INTAKE air from the moisture held in it! Thus - we do that on the output side. I'd say it sucks -- but really -- it blows! HAHAHAHAHA

[Fluid Power]

The problem with PVC is not the pressure rating, the drama stems from 4 factors:

1) It is does not expand and contract evenly, creating weak spots. This is where the risk of explosion comes in.

2) It is not UV resistant. It breaks down over time.

3) Compressor oils react with the PVC creating weak spots.

4) It is brittle. A small impact could cause an explosion.

Pressure ratings don't mean squat when you have a compressor that is blowing oil thru the PVC lines or something hits the PVC pipe and it bursts.

While it is a pain in the neck to use black iron pipe, good compressor habits eliminate the issues and should be followed using BIP, Copper or aluminum.

1) Clean dry air is the basis for any compressed air systems. Running proper filters and regulators is a must on ANY type of CA system, whether plumbed with copper, aluminum or BIP.

2) BIP will scale, and point of use filters should be used if running a sensitive piece of equipment or automation type machines. Your impact wrench or sander will not care if there is a little scale in the lines. (you do oil them before use, correct?) A point of use filter should be used if painting (regardless of how the system is plumbed)

3) Proper compressor maintenance and a properly plumbed air system goes a long way in reducing water/scale in an air system. Draining the compressor after use and having a proper Filter Regulator will make whole system work better.

Darren

[Sieg]

Good or bad my garage is plumbed with copper tubing.

[Fluid Power]

Originally Posted by Sieg

Good or bad my garage is plumbed with copper tubing.

No drama.

[GregWeld]

Originally Posted by Sieg

Good or bad my garage is plumbed with copper tubing.

COPPER IS PROPER