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Old 03-26-2016, 12:39 PM
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Default Ridetech Tru Turn System issues 69 Camaro

I realize this has been beat to death but I'm opening my own thread giving my real world experience thus far with the Ridetech Tru Turn system. I'm copying and pasting this from another members thread. There have been more than a few people with fitment issues in the wheel house. I have worked around this with inner wheel house mods. We already knew this would be necessary. The issues I am having now are with a huge loss in turning radius and tire/wheel too far back in wheel opening with the UCA's/LCA's that Ridetech provided at their built in +3.8 caster angle...and with added shims to give me more + caster.

Now that I have the car on the road....clearly some of issues that glr0212, cwylie, and others are having, I am having as well. The car is now fairly useless in parking lot conditions.

My set up:

69 Camaro
Full height frame bushings
Frame specs good. Checked on frame machine. Son works for body shop.
Full Ridetech suspension....Muscle Bar, TQ Air springs, Tru turn, everything
Tobins rotors/hub from Kore 3
18X9.5 wheels with 5.75" bs up front
275/35/18's
Caster +5 Camber -1.5 Toe in: 1/16"
Delphi 670 box
67 Camaro 5.8" pitman/idler

I worked around the clearance issues on the inner wheel house but clearly either I was shipped the wrong control arms or this system pushes the wheel way back in the wheel opening which in my opinion looks stupid. I was already concerned about the clearance (side to side) issue prior to ordering wheels so I went with a 9.5 and an 5.75" offset that would give me a 1/4" of clearance on both sides of center with the narrower wheel. edit (which I realize I lost the 1/4" on the inside due to the Kore 3 rotors -.25" of factory center but that should put me back to Ridetechs position for WMS to frame clearance)

I also am running into an issue with hitting the Muscle bar, either direction at full lock. Actually, I don't imagine I am even close to full lock. And, the steering stops are on the wrong side of the LCA for Ridetechs steering arms. After a call into their tech group, I was told that I must use factory Camaro steering arm to utilize the built in steering stops. I would have to fabricate my own stops. Irregardless, if I do add the stops to prevent hitting the Muscle bar, I will loose a huge amount off turning radius with this system. The other issue, the rear of the front tire does rub the inner wheel house on occasions while turning, leaving rubber. Eventually this will wear through.

While this system may be great for the guy that enjoys an occasional auto cross, it is nearly useless as it stands on my car for every day driving unless I maintain a straight line...and I don't live in Kansas. Lol. I have to make at least two stabs at entering any parking spots. I don't imagine the Auto Cross I wanted to compete in at Springfield in May will even be an option now. Those tight parking lot turns wont allow it. For what we spent on this system...well, I'm at a loss of words. Lol.

As my system stands:

You will lose turning radius with this system!

You will have to modify your wheel house for clearance with 275's....but we already know that.

And at almost 8 grand into this system, I have earned the right to complain! I am literally so frustrated at this point, that I about to gut this stuff and start over.

Provided pictures are of the drivers side only
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468 BBC, TH400, Moser 9" floater, True Forged Competitions 18x9.5 18x12, Kore 3 C6 ZO6 calipers 14" & 13" rotors, Ride Tech True Turn, Ride Tech Air TQ's, Torque Arm with Watts link, Moser CT Full Floater 9" with locker.

Last edited by Stovebolter; 03-27-2016 at 07:24 AM.
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Old 03-26-2016, 12:53 PM
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I have no problem notching my frame to get my turning radius....but where does that leave me with the sway bar and the tire rub I'm experiencing at the rear of the tires to the wheel house. I'd have to move the mounting point back and come up with a shorter sway bar arm for the Muscle bar in order to clear the wheel at full lock. What I feel needs to happen is the wheel/tire should be centered in wheel opening...moving wheel/tire up to an inch forward would probably clear the Muscle bar. I really think I have been shipped the wrong control arms. Ordered these through Matt at MCB. Hopefully he still has the original invoice. Not sure how to tell what was actually sent verses what the invoice says was sent. What a conundrum!
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468 BBC, TH400, Moser 9" floater, True Forged Competitions 18x9.5 18x12, Kore 3 C6 ZO6 calipers 14" & 13" rotors, Ride Tech True Turn, Ride Tech Air TQ's, Torque Arm with Watts link, Moser CT Full Floater 9" with locker.
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Old 03-26-2016, 12:55 PM
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On a good note, I am enjoying the LS in the car. As long as I'm going straight I'm fine. But this wasn't purpose built for a drag strip only scenario.
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468 BBC, TH400, Moser 9" floater, True Forged Competitions 18x9.5 18x12, Kore 3 C6 ZO6 calipers 14" & 13" rotors, Ride Tech True Turn, Ride Tech Air TQ's, Torque Arm with Watts link, Moser CT Full Floater 9" with locker.
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Old 03-26-2016, 11:03 PM
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I know at some point, around late 2013, or early 2014, Ride Tech started making their lower arms with the ball joint moved forward. Normally, to get more caster the upper ball joint is moved rearward, and this caused the tire to hit the rear of the inner wheel well. Maybe your arms are older? The LBJ should be forward of a stock A arm if you have one to compare to.
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Last edited by David Pozzi; 03-26-2016 at 11:09 PM.
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Old 03-26-2016, 11:10 PM
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Are you using the ridetech spindle for this kit?
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Old 03-27-2016, 07:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jr View Post
Are you using the ridetech spindle for this kit?
I'm fairly certain I am using the taller spindles as I did order the complete Tru Turn kit from Kim at MCB at nearly $1000. I found the invoice finally. And the pictures I have show the much taller spindle with two sets of holes (one low for steering arm and one high for caliper bracket). But I verify for certain when I can get back out to my dad's shop. Car is on hiatus while I get the Vintage Air (fittings-hoses) set.

Still love doing this stuff! But the loss of turning radius bugs me.

David
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468 BBC, TH400, Moser 9" floater, True Forged Competitions 18x9.5 18x12, Kore 3 C6 ZO6 calipers 14" & 13" rotors, Ride Tech True Turn, Ride Tech Air TQ's, Torque Arm with Watts link, Moser CT Full Floater 9" with locker.
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Old 03-27-2016, 07:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David Pozzi View Post
I know at some point, around late 2013, or early 2014, Ride Tech started making their lower arms with the ball joint moved forward. Normally, to get more caster the upper ball joint is moved rearward, and this caused the tire to hit the rear of the inner wheel well. Maybe your arms are older? The LBJ should be forward of a stock A arm if you have one to compare to.
Great, so I may have ended up as a guiney pig for a test run of parts. I'm so tired of falling prey to marketing. Lol. Sure wish I had the time to have got everything going when I first got all of this. Then I would've known much sooner. Oh bugger!

Thanks for the help David. I move back to your reading material on Camaro front suspensions often for inspiration. Good stuff!

David
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468 BBC, TH400, Moser 9" floater, True Forged Competitions 18x9.5 18x12, Kore 3 C6 ZO6 calipers 14" & 13" rotors, Ride Tech True Turn, Ride Tech Air TQ's, Torque Arm with Watts link, Moser CT Full Floater 9" with locker.

Last edited by Stovebolter; 03-27-2016 at 07:37 AM.
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