Question for those that have owned Shelby Cobras/replicas

[GregWeld]

Originally Posted by Cosmo mentis

Greg,

Some of the above I know, but I have a lot more to learn.

If you were to buy one in todays world, would it be the best driver you could find?

Or, an excellent pro-touring build?

Well --- it used to be it had to be a 100 point NCRS or Bloomington Gold car for me ---- but ---- those cars are losing value at a high rate of vibration as the crowd that wanted them ages.... we all "age" out of these cars..... think about the Model A restoration crowd (gone!).

However --- I would NEVER pay up for a pro touring (anything).... but would probably prefer to drive a modern pro tour car of any type. But it's like anything else.... the PYRAMID gets very toppy in a hurry -- and stuff that goes sideways from the "norm" becomes toppy. Having said that ---- HELLFIRE would be top of my list if I was shopping for a '69 Camaro.... but that is because it's build to standards -- it IS the standard - and therefore is worth a premium. I've driven many "pro touring" cars that I'd park within a 100 yards and walk away. The steering hunts rabbits - or the big brakes that can't stop the car - or the ride is worse than a 1949 International....

Only when you jump in the car can you judge any of this -- and they're all completely different and most don't live up to the looks.

[fleetus macmullitz]

Great insights/info to 'chew' on.

Thanks Greg.

[Ketzer]

Originally Posted by Cosmo mentis

Greg,

I'm glad you mentioned the big block models. I prefer those too.

Is it tough to keep them cool, both from an engine cooling perspective and the interiors? Or does the a/c take care of the later issue?

Also, what about cowl shake on the roadsters?

Thanks.

x3 on the BBC!
As has already been said, it shouldn't overheat or even run hot. Even a recent build should have been sorted before offered for sale. If someone uses the excuse that it "just hasn't been sorted out..." run away.
There are some really good products out to help with interior heat. Might involve pulling seats and carpet, but that's a weekend project.


Jeff-

[fleetus macmullitz]

Originally Posted by Ketzer

x3 on the BBC!
As has already been said, it shouldn't overheat or even run hot. Even a recent build should have been sorted before offered for sale. If someone uses the excuse that it "just hasn't been sorted out..." run away.
There are some really good products out to help with interior heat. Might involve pulling seats and carpet, but that's a weekend project.


Jeff-

Thanks Jeff.

Just starting to research these n depth, so I'll see whats been done to effectively curb the cabin heat.

[fleetus macmullitz]

https://sandiego.craigslist.org/nsd/...274253956.html

[DWC]

Cosmo,

I built a Factory Five in the early 2000's. It had a mild EFI 302, T5 trans, 8.8" rear end...pretty basic build. I learned A TON during the build and enjoyed that part of the experience as much as the driving.

It was definitely a sunny day driver. But I did autocross it a couple of times, which it was quite a handful. That led to an interest in road racing, which led to the sale of the FFR Cobra and the purchase of a '95 Mustang Cobra, which was gutted, caged, and tracked at Road Atlanta, VIR, etc.

As a data point, there used to be a couple of vendors that made soft and hard tops for the FFR's.

Daniel

[GregWeld]

Re the Craigslist '65


#1 -- it's the wrong year -- '65's have never been sought after -- with one or two exceptions - the fuelie - or the high hp 327

#2 -- a good resto mod at that price needs to have a trick chassis to go with all the other mods....

#3 -- If you buy something like this -- you want to get the original motor etc so the car has extra value down the road.

#4 -- driver door already shows sag

#5 -- It's an automatic (boring to the max in a car like this)

LOL ----- other than it's 60K too high price it appears to be an "okay" car. The guy stopped before it was really a nice car (chassis etc).... to me -- it's like a half breed.... got some goodies - but lacks others. If I'm paying UP for a resto mod car -- it needs bad ass stance - fat tires - slammed - trick chassis -- 6 speed.... otherwise -- if it's going to look factory - then just be a factory restoration and have "value" for that. This is just my unhumble opinion of course.

[fleetus macmullitz]

Originally Posted by DWC

Cosmo,

I built a Factory Five in the early 2000's. It had a mild EFI 302, T5 trans, 8.8" rear end...pretty basic build. I learned A TON during the build and enjoyed that part of the experience as much as the driving.

It was definitely a sunny day driver. But I did autocross it a couple of times, which it was quite a handful. That led to an interest in road racing, which led to the sale of the FFR Cobra and the purchase of a '95 Mustang Cobra, which was gutted, caged, and tracked at Road Atlanta, VIR, etc.

As a data point, there used to be a couple of vendors that made soft and hard tops for the FFR's.

Daniel

Thanks Daniel, glad you had a good experience building and driving.

I was reminded yesterday of the kind of compromises a Cobra bring. The weather, like many places, can change on a dime around here. I left my windows open on a bright sunny day, and when we got home a short time later a whole bunch of electronics were wet.

I think the Cobra would be a ton of fun to own, just not as a primary 'nice appearing day' driver.

[GregWeld]

When I think "RESTOMOD" I think all the way......



https://lateral-g.net/forums/atta...1&d=1504719777






https://lateral-g.net/forums/atta...1&d=1504719777

[GregWeld]

By the way ---- if I was buying a Cobra replica -- I'd buy a Superperformance model --- not a Factory Five version.

Friends own Park Place Ltd in Bellevue Washington and are a Superperformance dealer -- I always thought the quality was top notch.



100K less than the Craigslist '65


http://www.parkplaceltd.com/used-car...II/995/SP02023



60K Less -- big block badassery


http://www.parkplaceltd.com/new-cars...SC/995/SPO3264