1965 falcon

[Bryce]

Mocked up the sway bar with a very quick and efficient way to locate the bar and arms. looks hokey in pictures though.

Ride heigtht:


Bump:


Droop:

[craig510]

Bryce,

I have been looking into a similar swaybar setup. Ground clearance is one of my goals. My plan is to hole saw a couple of holes through the frame and mount bar just in front of the crank pulley. The arms will be above the control arms. This will also allow me to move my strut rod mounts inboard further so I can get some additional steering angle with the 17x9s.

[GrabberGT]

I wimped out about going either of these routes. Thru the frame - I figured by the time you get the bar far enough forward to clear the pulley, the arms would be 2' long and in the way of the tires as the higher you go, the more tire you have to clear. Going below as Bryce is doing put my end-links to close to the ground. Im currently waiting for delivery of a custom bent adjustable piece from Addco.

[Bryce]

Originally Posted by craig510

Bryce,

I have been looking into a similar swaybar setup. Ground clearance is one of my goals. My plan is to hole saw a couple of holes through the frame and mount bar just in front of the crank pulley. The arms will be above the control arms. This will also allow me to move my strut rod mounts inboard further so I can get some additional steering angle with the 17x9s.

Yes, the sway bar is low, but will not be a ground clearance issue. ITs the same height as the pan, the canton road race pan.

I thought about drilling a hole in the frame, I dont really like the idea. However since I have moved the radiator back 3" I do not have room between the radiator and crank pulley. So the only logical place on my car was as previously shown. I really havent cut up my car that much, basically still bolt on suspension. I want to keep it that way.

[Bryce]

Originally Posted by GrabberGT

I wimped out about going either of these routes. Thru the frame - I figured by the time you get the bar far enough forward to clear the pulley, the arms would be 2' long and in the way of the tires as the higher you go, the more tire you have to clear. Going below as Bryce is doing put my end-links to close to the ground. Im currently waiting for delivery of a custom bent adjustable piece from Addco.

My endlinks will be closer to the ground, but not much closer than the rotor. so it shouldn't cause any problems, the arms are inboard of the strut rods so I wont lose any turning radius.

I cant wait to see your custom Addco bar. I talked to them at SEMA and they were not that interested.

[GrabberGT]

Originally Posted by Bryce

My endlinks will be closer to the ground, but not much closer than the rotor. so it shouldn't cause any problems, the arms are inboard of the strut rods so I wont lose any turning radius.

I cant wait to see your custom Addco bar. I talked to them at SEMA and they were not that interested.

I cant wait to see my bar either. Its been a month already and we are still waiting.

[GrabberGT]

Originally Posted by Bryce

These are aluminum hosing ball joints that will thread into my upper and lower control arms. This should give me a better, more precise pivot point. It also allows me to adjust my suspension. Add or remove shims from the LCA and raise/lower the car. Add or remove shims from the UCA and adjust camber gain. Also I can adjust roll center at the same time.

Alright. My brain finally caught up to how the roll center adjustment is possible with these. Thats pretty cool. Any idea what the range of adjustment is for your car?

[Bryce]

Originally Posted by GrabberGT

Alright. My brain finally caught up to how the roll center adjustment is possible with these. Thats pretty cool. Any idea what the range of adjustment is for your car?

I think I have 3/4" adjustment upper and lower. So I havent done any geometry work too see the effect on RC or camber gain.

[Bryce]

A couple more pics as I slowly put the sway bar in:

[Bryce]

a few more progress pics:

Sway bar mounts and new ball joints.