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  #31  
Old 05-13-2016, 01:51 PM
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CJD Automotive CJD Automotive is offline
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More wheel pics...



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  #32  
Old 05-13-2016, 03:55 PM
SBDave SBDave is offline
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Very nice!
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  #33  
Old 05-16-2016, 04:51 PM
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Very nice!
Thanks!

Wheels showed up today along with tires. I need these now to build the new tubs in the rear and to flare the front fenders once the front sub is in.




Wanted to show the caps that go on the hubs. I'm using Ron's RSRT Track Star Super Hubs in the front. They have a big grease cap for a big bearing! (3" center bore) Ron's idea was to have the wheel manufacture engrave their logo so it looked like part of the wheel. I think it came out great. Rear caps are the Speedway caps for their hubs with the Finspeed logo machined.




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  #34  
Old 05-16-2016, 11:04 PM
67goatman455 67goatman455 is offline
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More wheel pics...


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  #35  
Old 05-16-2016, 11:09 PM
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Those caps look great..very god idea
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  #36  
Old 06-03-2016, 06:37 PM
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Some updates. Started by cutting out the rear floor section.








Because of how the cage was installed previously, I evened up the rocker boxes from the inside, making a "shelf" sort of. This leaves a space from the inside rocker to the frame rail that the control arm is accessed and adjusted.
This is not a tube frame race car, but a street car, body integrity is important to me. I still want doors to shut with a tight "thud" and body panels to line up and stay that way, and keeping the internal body structure should help that.





I wanted to "sneak up" on the rear. Wasn't quite sure how I was going to do this. I had previously installed a cross tube between the stock frame rails and an upper support/bumper bar for the parachute mount. In the end, I decided to leave that in place and plate down to the previous crossbar and then just tie the new rails in their.





Then started cutting down the rails to fit and correspond with the blueprint. Front looked good...



Rear, not so much. Ron had asked for the lowest point of the trunk floor as a measurement. I provided that and ask what about the measurement where the rails tie into the rear tail panel? Said it just needed the lowest part of the trunk. Apparently the tail panel measurement is kinda important.




Now to figure out how I want to fix this. The sway bar and watts frame are actually pretty low on the backside of the bend, lower than where I need to attach the rails to the rear...



...so I need to curve down to it.



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Last edited by CJD Automotive; 08-10-2018 at 11:20 AM.
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  #37  
Old 06-03-2016, 06:37 PM
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Too bad poster board isn't structural...I need to make this look like it was in the plan all along instead of a fix.








I'll finish these up tonight and start on installing the sway bar tube and watts this weekend.
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  #38  
Old 06-03-2016, 10:47 PM
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Now that is thinking outside the box to find a fix, nice work. Sometimes things just happen and I always try to just figure out a solution instead of worrying about why it happened...seems you must subscribe to the same theory Craig.

Keeping the chute mount huh? Nice...
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  #39  
Old 06-04-2016, 01:11 AM
Mr.VENGEANCE Mr.VENGEANCE is offline
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Yall make me want a Cuda...
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  #40  
Old 06-04-2016, 12:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SSLance View Post
Now that is thinking outside the box to find a fix, nice work. Sometimes things just happen and I always try to just figure out a solution instead of worrying about why it happened...seems you must subscribe to the same theory Craig.
Thanks Lance. I screw up lots of stuff and have years of practice fixing it and making it look like that's what I wanted to do...Nothing like paying someone for parts/designs and then fixing their mistakes for free.


Quote:
Originally Posted by SSLance View Post
Keeping the chute mount huh? Nice...
Yep, going to run some mile events and Bonneville.
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Craig Scholl
CJD Automotive, LLC

www.CJDAUTOMOTIVE.com

"I own a Mopar, so I already know it won't be in stock, won't ship tomorrow, and won't actually fit without modification."

Last edited by CJD Automotive; 01-28-2019 at 10:00 AM.
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