80 Se T/a

[TreySmith]

Cool thanks.

I guess I am doing the body work now lol, my friend says he has too much work and can't mess with mine. I need to pick up a drivers side fender now. Man parts are hard to find! The fender is just full of bondo and rusted out at the bottom. Atleast now I am saving a ton of cash. $300 is new carpet and floor pans so I am happy.

[TreySmith]

Got the sail panel mostly done, took 10 minutes lol. My friend was trying to teach me how to do bondo.

[TreySmith]

The car is coming along nicely. It got caught out in the rain and I had to deal with a customer so I couldn't get it primed in time, but it didn't rust bad at all, just turned kinda yellow in some spots. I decided to go with BC/CC since it wont cost that much more. It will be $500 to paint it either way, so I just have to pay the extra for supplies. So I guess it will be House Of Kolor BC-25 black, the baddest of the black. The total I am looking at for bodywork and paint is $1200 or so.. Not too bad

[NOT A TA]

Looks like its coming along Trey! Might want to tape off the rear window trim and T top when doing the bodywork just in case you slip with a tool. (this comes from a guy with DA scratch marks in his rear window)

[TreySmith]

Too late Lol.. You may be able to buff out a little bit of the scratch. My friends dad got hit by a motorcycle and he left alot of scratches on his drivers window and this guy at work got most of it out, not sure if it was paint though.

The trim has a little bit of a scratch but the windows are fine. The tabs that hold the t-tops in are broken so I think I need new t-top trim anyways. I just nicked it a little, no would would ever notice the scratch.

[awr68]

Listen to John....protect everything all the way threw this process!
I would do it in single stage black....it looks better than bc/cc (black that is). This will give it a cleaner and deeper look to the finish.

[TreySmith]

I don't know, all of the spot jobs we do are BC/CC, and they look nice. Most of the single stage jobs look dull. The mustang looked great but alot that have been coming through lately just look cheap.

[SteveMcqueenRules]

You can sand single stage paint and make it as shiny as you want. The only reason cars have clearcoat is to protect the paint.

[TreySmith]

The body work is pretty much done. I handed my friend $350 and he went at it. He started at 2:00 when I got off work and I took the flares, mirrors etc.. off and helped him do a few small things. It only took him four hours which was amazing.
All we need to do is sandblast a few areas, strip the hood bird and pinstripes off, clean up some edges and then prime it. I was going to have it painted next week but Fbodywarehouse is having a sale on weather stripping so I think I might get that first and save some money.

[NOT A TA]

Having had a few black cars and a couple of them BC/CC I have to agree with Anthony and recommend a good single stage like the higher end PPG or something similar. Wet sanded and buffed out it looks a mile deep and you can fix chips etc easier without being able to see them when they're fixed. I don't think I've ever seen a BC/CC black car that compares to a well done single stage.

Another thing is that black cars need more maintenance and your car is a daily driver, soooo you're going to need to keep hand buffing it out to get rid of the swirl marks. Since you can't see as well how much clear you're laying on (or sanding off) you're more likely to buff through it later on down the road if you keep the car.

I may get flamed for this but.... as the owner of 3 vehicles with peeling clearcoats on regularly driven or outside kept vehicles that have been repainted (all by different professional body shops, not me) and now need to be repainted again because of it. If it doesn't have a clear coat the clear can't peel.