69 Camaro Conv. - LS3 Transplant

[Jon69RagTop]

For the firewall, I used a product from Dupont, called "Hot Rod Black". Has a matte finish to it.

[Jon69RagTop]

This main reason for modifying the tunnel brace relates to the fact I bought a turn key package of LS3 and T-56, and the T-56 is the f-body generation. My research, unfortunatly after the fact , I came to the realization that the shifter is located much further back on F-body T-56's versus the aftermarket styles from Keisler or Hurst Driveline.



I used the car shop 1" set-back plates, and even reduced the set-back by 1/4" by re-drilling the plates. I didn't redrill just to avoid the tunnel modification, but was trying to eliminate the need for notching the frame as well. Didn't work obviously cause I had to notch the frame ever so slightly. Probably could have raised the motor a little bit, but that makes getting the driveline angles more difficult with a factory tunnel and the height of a T-56.

Another item I ended up having to re-address was the steering box hitting the Hooker Headers. Attempting to drop in the motor in for the last time I came to realize the headers were making too much contact. Contacted Frank and he set me up with DSE's 600 box. This netted me a little more room, but I had to dimple the headers still, but only a slight amount. Frank gave me a quick tip of using a large socket and felt pad between, then struck with hammer on the socket to create a clean dimple. Worked out great, and a big "Thanks" to Frank for the idea.

[Al Moreno]

Very nice work. I love that color, very elegant.

[Jon69RagTop]

Watching a little playoff football so I decided to multi-task and throw an update together. Worked on clutch assembly to accomodate a factory f-body clutch master cylinder. First reason is this its about the cheapest method compared to others for a hydraulic assembly, but also for ease of replacement when many miles from home. A buddy of mine a few years ago on the Power Tour lost his master cylinder and had to replace his. With that being said I want to make a "swap out" as easy as possilbe without having to shorten a pushrod while on the road.

Used some paper and tape to mock-up the angle for the pushrod mounting bracket while in the car, then proceeded to remove and weld while on the bench. Once assembled and back into the car, the actuation is perfect, with the pushrod remaining directly centerd to the piston during the entire stroke.


Next project was to finish up the wiring connections to LS prior to reassembly of front clip. Harness is completly attached now, fuel line in place and new tank hung.


The inner fenders and back side of core support needed some work, holes welded up etc. I did not wish to completely dis-assemble the clip, so I unbolted the inner fenders from the outers and pryed them down a bit to get coverage up under the outers. Worked great and I bet no-one could tell they were painted while on the car. I'm very particular, so it had to look good or I'd disassemble.

[awr68]

Nice progress! I have to weld a tab onto my clutch pedal too. Nice to see a pic of it done!

[CURVES]

Very cool, I bought a similar ls3 t56 combo from Regal. I can't remember where or how but somehow I figured out the alternator issue with the Fbody accessories, so I ordered it with the corvette set-up, no notch!

I'm fairly quiet but I'm excited about this one. Keep up the good work!

[70rs]

You're making great progress with the car and it looking good.

[Jon69RagTop]

I like this first shot of the two halves about to come together.

The satin black I sprayed on the inner fenders and core support.

Getting the front back on is a little of a milestone for me, a light at the end of the tunnel for sure.

Now for the buzz kill, and would sure welcome some opinions as well. After filling the motor with oil a few weeks back, a couple of times I have wiped some drops which were hanging from the bottom pan. I surely haven not come this far to have a freakin oil leak, so I'm a bit bummed. Leaking with out running? Doesn't make sense to me. There are two bolts on the backside of each corner of the pan, and they appear after a few days to have a droplet hanging from them. ARRGGHHH? Anyone else experienced any problems with this? It's a brand new gasket, autokraft oil pan, and the bolts appear to be tight. It only happens when I take the car down off the DSE stands, dropping the rear of the car first, which in theory tilts the motor back. It's only after this procedure I ever notice the oil, so I guess it's a problem at the rear of the pan?

I'm not sure what to do next, so I welcome any input or ideas.

[70rs]

Ohhhh, that sucks! I really wish I had some kind of answer for you. I hope someone here can ofer a simple solution to the oil droplets. Good luck.

[GregWeld]

So here's my "fix" ---

Tilt the back end UP -- Remove the two affected bolts -- clean the snot out of them AND the threads in the block -- I use a cotton tip like an ear cleaner - soaked in brake cleaner ---- just twirl in the threads BEING CAREFUL NOT TO LOSE THE COTTON IN THE THREADS -- allow to dry --

Apply thread sealant on the bolt -- NOT thread Locker - SEALANT - silicone or black gasket sealant -- and thread in and allow a couple hours before oil contact.