best electric garage htr - Page 4 - Lateral-g Forums

crazycarl · #31 12-17-2009, 02:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by deuce_454

insulation insulation.... i have (im sorry to admit) a used engine oil powered stove... it gives off a nice dry heat as all the smoke goes thru the chimny...

I take it the American EPA doesn't visit Denmark very often. You could never get away with that in California. Maybe Montana or North Dakota.

**GregWeld** · #32 12-17-2009, 05:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by crazycarl

I take it the American EPA doesn't visit Denmark very often. You could never get away with that in California. Maybe Montana or North Dakota.

I laughed to myself when I read that as well... you'd have the FBI - the CIA - the EPA - the DEA and every other "A" the government could muster beating down your door and hauling you straight off to prison! Meanwhile "we" (the Navy etc) are still painting our fleet with lead based bottom paint -- cause they're "exempt" (well... that, and it's a far better product!)...

BRIAN · #33 12-17-2009, 07:54 PM

Ok My Dayton is killing me with the on/off deal every few seconds until it gets to temp. My small barrel style actually started smoking and for nothing but good luck I was there to pull the plug. Somehow one of the wires shorted internally right after the wires go into the case. It worked great. It does not have a name brand on it? Then again I would have looked a little harder if my place burnt down.

Greg I reread your post, are you saying you are heating your shop with just the lights??? I have about 12-14 going all day and do not see that kind of heat?? They are a mix of 90 and 100watt I believe. I forget which models. They are straight from the depot. Maybe I should leave them on 24hrs?? It is about 30-40 here and I haven't seen my balls in a couple days.

**GregWeld** · #34 12-17-2009, 09:10 PM

Brian --

Sorry to hear about your lost balls... you'll find 'em again come spring...

Yes -- I heat the shop with just the fluorescent lights... they are High Output T12's - 120w per bulb - two per fixture - 16 fixtures... on 24/7 once the weather gets cold enough to need it.

Now -- it was down to 20 degrees here all last week - so the shop (I was gone) dropped 10 degrees, down from 71 as measured with infrared on the tool boxes to 60. So I "added" some heat from my Grainger 220V 5000W heater - but have since turned that off now that it's climbed back to normal outside temps (like low 40's).

I have - what I would describe as MAJOR - insulation... and have been continually amazed at how cool it stays in summer - and how toasty in the winter.

**GregWeld** · #35 12-17-2009, 09:22 PM

Brian --

Just a thought --- for anyone reading the thread. Here's my "thoughts" on heating with my lights -- or any other source that is ELECTRIC.... It takes "X" amount of "wattage" to heat "X" amount of space... so whether it's all electric lights - or lights and electric heater - or an oven for that matter... it's going to cost the same to keep the "temp" you want the shop. SO I just leave the lights on 24/7. An electrician explained to me how to use - or not use - my thermostat when we installed the A/C in the house. He told me - "the thermostat is not a gas pedal"! Set it and forget it... it takes a lot of energy to pull the house down to the set temperature - because it has to pull heat out of the walls/floors/furniture etc... once that gets to the temp you've set - it takes less to pull the ambient air down... OKAY == that made sense to me. It's also why I just leave the lights on - because that way all the metal stuff in the shop is nice and "warm"... once it's all warm - it helps keep the shop warm... and the lights can heat the "air" instead of all the cold metal (think about A LOT of metal - car bodies - frames - tools - tool boxes - work table etc)....

deuce_454 · #36 12-18-2009, 04:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by crazycarl

I take it the American EPA doesn't visit Denmark very often. You could never get away with that in California. Maybe Montana or North Dakota.

Denmark is worse!.... they will suspend by my eyelids and pull off my fingernails with red hot pliars if they find out....

in the meantime i have nice dry free heat... i have a neighboring shop actually delivering used engineoil in drums once or twice a year since hey can get rid of it without paying enviromental disposal fees.....

and its virtually smoke free once it gets up to temp.... the slagg left over is propably toxic though,

crazycarl · #37 12-18-2009, 11:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by deuce_454

Denmark is worse!.... they will suspend by my eyelids and pull off my fingernails with red hot pliars if they find out....

Quote:

Originally Posted by deuce_454

and its virtually smoke free once it gets up to temp.... the slagg left over is propably toxic though,

jjarky · #38 12-20-2009, 05:42 PM

I recently purchased a Fostoria electric Salamander, wall mount. It was 52000btu with an 800 cfm blower and 220 hardwire. Cost $720. Already sent it back, it sucked! Probably would have taken over an hour to heat my 20x30 when outside temps were in lower 30's. I was using a forced air kerosene 70000 btu that cost $200, it kicked butt, but was stinky and K1 kerosene cost $8 a gallon. Plus safety hazard for little ones. I'm going to natural gas. Anyone running a hanging natural gas forced air heater?

**GregWeld** · #39 12-20-2009, 05:51 PM

JJ -- My shed is plumbed for Nat Gas but I haven't had to buy a heater - you know why if you've read the thread...

I was going to hang a Reznor and since my cousin is pres of a local heating oil company - I could get one reasonably. She advised me to go with the high efficiency version because then I could run the exhaust really easily. The new high efficiency versions basically just exhaust water vapors...

OOCustoms · #40 12-22-2009, 03:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GregWeld

You don't need no stinkin' heat in Kaleephorneea........

LOL

Again - it's all about the BTU's -- and that one is rated at 34,000 of them... and draws 42 AMPS... it ought to heat something!!

EEEEEEEEEEEEHHHHHHHHAAAAAAAAAAAA

I dont need heat in cali?? hahahaha well Im in the bay area and like 2 weeks ago we were getting snow practically at 500 feet above see level. I'd take a midwest dry cold any day over our wet cold that we have being so close to the ocean. Two totally different types of cold. I really just wish my landlord would install insulation so my shop wouldnt follow the outside temps so easily!