Fast EZ EFI HELP please!

[GregWeld]

Originally Posted by Ketzer

You do make house calls, don't you GW ...?


Jeff-

HELL NO!! Well.... maybe for you I would.



You know what happens when you work on a buddies car???


It then comes with a lifetime warranty. For ANYTHING and EVERYTHING that goes wrong with it from then on.

Sometimes guys show up here - and I just tell them I don't know anything about "whatever" their problem is -- because I don't want to work on their crap in the first place now -- or in the future.

You see that one sign in my garage pics??? It's true!!!!

[camcojb]

Originally Posted by Judgement

Well I was at my buddy Peter Bergman's shop "Bergman Auto Craft" today and he looked over the system from front to back. He fixed a couple of issues from the previous installer. We went out and live tuned it and it still fell on its face we went back to the shop to check all the lines again but they were all good. So I took the fuel filter off, which was recommended here and what do you know there was a carb filter inside so we took it out then reinstalled it with out the block. We went back out to test it and W W I could not believe what a difference it was. The motor I built was finally there all 525hp and 620tq. A 5 cent carb filter block drove me crazy. Now we can fine tune the motor to perfection, I can't thank my good friend Peter Bergman enough and thanks to everyone who has replied to this post with help an suggestions!!!!!

I found the same thing on one I worked on, and the fuel pressure would drop like a rock the longer you drove. The tough part was it was their filter supplied with their kit, so you would think it would be the proper EFI filter, not a bronze block like a carb uses. I have no idea how FAST could source that filter for their kits. I spoke to a guy at their SEMA booth and he admitted they had a ton of issues with the filter, but no explanation how it happened or why they hadn't fixed the issue.

[GregWeld]

Originally Posted by camcojb

The kit a friend bought had a carb fuel filter instead of an EFI one; had the solid block phenolic insert in it instead of a screen. Super restrictive and the fuel pressure dropped like a rock under load. Also the pump started getting louder after cruising for a bit.

You might want to check yours, because that was the supplied filter that came with the complete kit directly from FAST.

That was suggested in APRIL.... POST # 4


Good call Jody!!

[camcojb]

Originally Posted by GregWeld

That was suggested in APRIL.... POST # 4


Good call Jody!!

Every once in a while I get it right. Wonder why he didn't check it back then.

[Ketzer]

Originally Posted by GregWeld

HELL NO!! Well.... maybe for you I would.

If ever you are in the southeast, I intend to find something for you to work on... something super greasy and half-a$$ed together!

Originally Posted by GregWeld

You know what happens when you work on a buddies car???


It then comes with a lifetime warranty. For ANYTHING and EVERYTHING that goes wrong with it from then on.

Oh wow, you've got the same buddies I do. I try to limit my "help" to handing them tools and saying "remove that, don't break that". When they call a week later and say their right headlight is out, oh well, that usually happens when you change tie rods....


Jeff-

[GregWeld]

Originally Posted by Ketzer

If ever you are in the southeast, I intend to find something for you to work on... something super greasy and half-a$$ed together!

Oh great! That means I have to bring my own projects down since they fit the bill.

[JKnight]

Originally Posted by camcojb

Every once in a while I get it right. Wonder why he didn't check it back then.

Wow, that was well done Jody. Good call.

I'm going to do one of the Holley HP EFI self-tuning setups soon, so between Weld's install suggestions, Holley's directions/tech support and the good folks here, I'm sure it'll work out well.

[GregWeld]

Originally Posted by JKnight

so between Weld's install suggestions, Holley's directions/tech support and the good folks here, I'm sure it'll work out well.

Well.... there.... you've made one mistake already!!!

[JKnight]

Originally Posted by GregWeld

Well.... there.... you've made one mistake already!!!

Notice...I only called them suggestions

[PTAddict]

Originally Posted by GregWeld

I'd suggest that troubleshooting begins with a complete review of the install before you ever pick up the handheld.

The definition of insanity is to do the same thing over and over again and expect a different result. That is usually what happens with the handheld settings -- they're run over and over with minor tweaks --- resulting is a POS running car because it didn't fix the issue.

Finding the fault should simply begin with the fuel system - since that's all the ECU controls.... Are they running old crappy fuel lines that the new fuels have disintegrated and they're now causing issues with the filters or injectors.... Are there pre and aft filters of the proper size surrounding the fuel pump.... is the pressure set correctly in the ECU and actual readings... Next I look at the O2 sensor. It's usually fouled beyond recognition. I won't tell you how to clean it... I assume you know how. If not - just replace it.
Then I go for the wiring -- and that's where 90% of the issues are. Bad connections - connectors poorly crimped - bad or missing grounds - wiring intermingled with the MSD box or ECU too close to the MSD box.... Then I jump to the distributor curve and timing... checking the MAP sensor and it's install and source... and then finally pull the plugs because they'll be a disaster.... because usually the issues are from TOO MUCH fuel once the car runs like crap and the system can't adjust.

I don't bother to even turn the car over until I've checked every single facet of the install -- to include any sensor install (like tape used to seal the threads). The system won't start to self tune until it hits 140*.

Clear out the "program" and start over... making certain to know what injectors are being used. I like to default to putting in the injector sizing etc rather than selecting one of the "known" kit numbers.

On IR systems it takes a bit more prep -- and something that many don't do is they don't disconnect the linkage before making adjustments. They are IR systems for a reason! There's this word in there --- INDIVIDUAL..... side to side linkage has to be disconnected... and a manometer used to adjust each intake until they're perfect. If one is missed up the entire thing is messed up.
Sometimes the actual physical butterfly(s) needs to be tweaked.

And then the linkage is hooked back up once the idle and everything else is running as it should... and if hooking that up changes anything - then the linkage needs to be adjusted.

Finally I go back in to the handheld and reset the throttle for idle and WOT.... and fire it back off and adjust the idle in the handheld to where the car is currently idling. I never use a IAC in these systems - it's not necessary. But I like to set the physical idle - get the timing all dialed in etc -- and then go back and tell the ECU what the idle RPM is. It, of course, can't adjust the idle which is why it's asking for that info (it wants to control the IAC)... so I want the ECU to just see the tach input is say 800 --- and I know the motor is idling at 800 so I tell the handheld that the idle is set to 800. DONE.

I just did a Brodix headed 496 BBC --- IR --- It's idle doesn't vary 25 rpms using my dial back timing light that has RPM capability. That's confirmed by the handheld info screen as well.

Aha! You are a tuner, after all! The essence of EFI tuning is knowing what the system responds to and (hopefully) why, not whether you use a "real computer" to do it There is stuff in here I've picked up next time I tune an IR system, like the idle stuff.